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Tube doors!?

90ranajo

The Little TJ that could
Joined
April 21, 2002
Messages
1,806
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City, State
Pattaya, Chonburi
Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 Toyota Fortuner
Callsign
KG7MXH
I decided today that I would have a go at making some tube doors for Moab. For the hinge side bracket I used some scrap 2"x1" square tube cut in half. I'll be using some 1.5" tube for the bars. I still need to figure out the latch mechanism.

Door Removed:
DSC00535.jpg

Hinge side bracket:
DSC00538.jpg
 



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I think it was JTX that came up with a really slick latch. I'll try to find pics.
 






I think I'm going to try use a vertical pin behind the striker bolt to hold it closed.
 






Sorry for the crappy photo. I zoomed in on the latch from a much larger photo.

It's just a tube that's notched on one end.
 

Attachments

  • latch.jpg
    latch.jpg
    76.7 KB · Views: 2,187






I was thinking on using some 3/8" plate for the latch side with a notch for the striker bolt and have a pin that vertically slides down behind the striker bolt for door retension.
 






I can get you some pictures if you need some. If i remember right Kevin took some pictures of the latch to.
 






JTX said:
I can get you some pictures if you need some. If i remember right Kevin took some pictures of the latch to.


No, I didn't take pics. I requested pics via PM after last Moab but you blew me off. See if I put your Ex on the trailer again:D Just kidding, I think yo were at school or something and probably just got busy. What size tube did you use for that latch?
 






IMG_2084.jpg


I remember seeing a pic of that latch. It was nice.

Here is how I did mine with a simple lynch pin thru bolt. I have that striker mounted on the body that has a 1/2" hole. Then the round bolt is welded on the tube door and penetrates thru striker with the lynch pin passing thru and then the round ring slips back over round bolt. I also have a rubber o-ring on bolt between striker that is up against the tube. I had to mount striker on body this way so I can run with the light weight doors or doors off. Just thought this might help.
 






lol, Now i remember! Thanks Kevin, im not to sure on the size. Ill get out there and measure it and get back to you.
 






Top tube:
DSC00539.jpg


Bottom Tube:
DSC00540.jpg


Latch side plate:
DSC00541.jpg


Latch:
DSC00543.jpg


All Done:
DSC00544.jpg


Now I just need to do the passenger door.
 






Nice close up of the latch side open. How about one with it closed. I know I can walk out the front door and look at it, but what about everyone else here?:D

Can anyone guess the type of bolt used on the latch. I'll give you a hint. The same bolt was used on both sides, yet they can still both be secured simultaniously :eek:

P.S. I don't see one of those tools in any of those pics that are yours :p
 












1/2 a u-bolt, eh?

I like the primer on the dash. :p
 


















Yep, and if you look closely in a couple of the pics you can just barely see my clutch pedal mod. :cool:
 












In the top tube and bottom tube pics you can see a shiney part between the clutch and brake pedals. Since I swapped in a TH700-R4, the clutch wasn't needed but didn't want to hassle with pulling out the clutch/brake assembly to swap in a standard wide brake pedal. So a steel plate got welded to the back side of the clutch and brake arms. Now I have a nice and wide brake pedal! :D
 






FROADER said:
^^ I can't make it out


Being that it used to be a manual tranny, after the 700 was swaped in, and me being used to the larger brake pedal, I decided something had to be done. Dual foot driving was a pain with the tiny brake pedal and the clutch pedal kept getting in the way. The clutch and brake pedal are one assembly and the entire dash has to be removed to replace/swap them. However, nothing has to be removed to join them together with a piece of 1/4 inch plate. They have been permanetly been married via a welder and a slice of 1/4 inch plate to make one large brake pedal
 



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