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Tune Up Suggestions

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'99 Limited
Hello I am going to have a tune up done next month and I need some questions answered.

First I have a '99 ford explorer 4dr V8 and I am undecided on which spark plug brand I should get. I am torn between platinum Autolites and platinum Motorcraft. Second, I am going to replace the pcv (just to do it) and do I need to buy the whole pcv assembly or just replace the pcv valve? Third, do I need to buy an ignition coil pack or is it not necessary?

I am set on getting the Motorcraft spark plug wires and I am buying a Motorcraft fuel filter. What else am I missing to complete my items for the tune up?

BTW, I do not have a Check Engine Light, I just want to do a tune up because its been over 50k miles since I bought the truck in 2006 and I do not know when the last tune up was performed on it.
 



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Dan Whitaker

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Motorcraft & Autolite plugs are the exact same plug. Yes go with Motorcraft wires. Also go with a Motorcraft PCV valve.

Don't waste your money buying coil packs unless they bad. They run around $90 a piece and you need two.
 






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Motorcraft & Autolite plugs are the exact same plug. Yes go with Motorcraft wires. Also go with a Motorcraft PCV valve.

Don't waste your money buying coil packs unless they bad. They run around $90 a piece and you need two.

Thanks for the advice and how can you tell if the coil packs go bad?
 






Dan Whitaker

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Joe Dirt

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Agreed- on all of Dan's advice. I like Moto...
 






crunchie_frog

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I think advance auto has a buy 1 get 1 free on the autolite plugs right now. Also, you may have read this already, but the plugs are most easily changed by jacking up the front and removing the wheel and mud guard.

Also, you may want to consider sea foam of intake before changing plugs and then do an oil change afterwards.

Here is a copy and paste from a ford tsb 01-19-7. but there are lots of posts on sea foam in this forum.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.
2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Combustion Chamber
d. Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
e. Shut engine off and allow it to soak for hour
f. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner.
g. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
h. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
i. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
j. Change oil and filter.
 






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You will loose at least one cylinder if not four.

I know all my cylinders are working because I do not feel a loss in power, but if one or more cylinders are shot, then will the car throw a check engine light or will it not start at all?


I think advance auto has a buy 1 get 1 free on the autolite plugs right now. Also, you may have read this already, but the plugs are most easily changed by jacking up the front and removing the wheel and mud guard.

Also, you may want to consider sea foam of intake before changing plugs and then do an oil change afterwards.

Here is a copy and paste from a ford tsb 01-19-7. but there are lots of posts on sea foam in this forum.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.
2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Combustion Chamber
d. Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
e. Shut engine off and allow it to soak for hour
f. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner.
g. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
h. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
i. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
j. Change oil and filter.

I'll think about doing that but, although some members here have had success with using seafoam, I've heard some bad stories about it too. Thanks for the advice though
 






ford_67

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Testing coil packs

You can test the coil packs by measuring the resistance (ohms) on the primary and secondary sides of the coils. The primary should be 0.3 to 1.0 ohms. The secondaries should be 6.5 to 11.5 K-ohms.
The primary side of the coil connection is - + -
The secondary side of coil standing facing the motor
Left coil pack
4,7 in back
8,2 in front
Right coil pack
3,5 in back
6,1 in front
I hope this helps.
This is from the Haynes manual part number 36024. 1991-2000
I do suggest buying the ford service manuals too. I bought mine on ebay.
 






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