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Tuning a 1st gen ?

fmaster7

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Does some company make a handheld tuner for the 1st gens??
Im running lean at idle but richer as the rpms go higher.

Is there a swap computer I can use, maybe from 2nd gens?

Any suggestions?
 


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Michiganbear

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how are you determining its running lean/rich??

also, clean the MAF..
 




mrboyle

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x2 on the MAF.

The OBD I in the first gen X has no ability to be "tuned". You can get a chip that alters the I/O signal to improve the engine performance, but there is no way to live program the factory computer.
 




Spdrcer34

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There ARE ways to tune a 1st Gen....

There are a few chips out there that will work...

Depends on how much you wanna spend, and WHO is going to do the tune.

I know the Tuner/Vendor here on ExplorerForum will tune a OBD-1 Explorer, but he has said in the past that he prefers to only do it in person, not via e-mail, like you can with an OBD-II

The only 2nd Gen X that was OBD-I/EEC-IV is the 1995. 1996 to 2001 were all OBD-II/EEC-V, and those computers aren't even CLOSE to being compatible with yours.

Ryan
 




fmaster7

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how are you determining its running lean/rich??

also, clean the MAF..

the mass air is probably as clean its gonna get.

i have an air/fuel ratio gauge thats telling me im running very lean on idle and as the rpms rise, so does the gauge telling me im running rich in 3000-4000 rpms.
 




fmaster7

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There ARE ways to tune a 1st Gen....

There are a few chips out there that will work...

Depends on how much you wanna spend, and WHO is going to do the tune.

I know the Tuner/Vendor here on ExplorerForum will tune a OBD-1 Explorer, but he has said in the past that he prefers to only do it in person, not via e-mail, like you can with an OBD-II

The only 2nd Gen X that was OBD-I/EEC-IV is the 1995. 1996 to 2001 were all OBD-II/EEC-V, and those computers aren't even CLOSE to being compatible with yours.

Ryan

i have a jet chip right now but im not getting the power that i want...i actually think horsepower and torque havent improved at all and still cant powerbrake LOL, and JET said it makes changes to my A/F ratios. idk why my gauge is still telling me im running lean/rich still. i re-tightened all my clamps on my CAI but same problem.
 




Michiganbear

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gonna go out on a limb here, and say that the factory fuel mapping may be what your seeing.

at idle (unless cold), there is VERY little demand for fuel, therefore the EEC will not give it much.

of course, as the rpm (and throttle position) increase, the fuel need increases, so more fuel, and more power avail.

since these things are supposed to pass emissions tests, and MOST driving is done at lower rpm, running with a leaner mix may be the way Ford designed it.

As a side note, if a chip is gonna be emissions legal (they gotta tell ya when its sold), its pretty limited as to what they can do with the fuel mapping, and remain legal ( assuming NO other parts are changed in the vehicle, such as different cats, ect).

you say the MAF is as clean as its gonna get.. what did you clean it with (some chemicals are bad for it). Also, it may just be going bad too!

The mixture guage you have.. how is it connected?? does it use its own O2 sensor, or piggyback onto the engines sensor, or some other way? Also, does it just say 'lean' and 'rich', or does it give an actual mixture measurement (numerical, as in 14-1 air/fuel)? If its just 'lean and rich', just what do them 'values' mean?? lean could be 15-1, and rich could be 13 to one.. both perfectly acceptable for most daily driver uses.. you actually have no way of know what the actual ratio is on them type guages.

Remember, 14.7 to 1 is what the makers usually strive for as ideal, but thats NOT for power reasons, but for emissions reasons.
 




fmaster7

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gonna go out on a limb here, and say that the factory fuel mapping may be what your seeing.

at idle (unless cold), there is VERY little demand for fuel, therefore the EEC will not give it much.

of course, as the rpm (and throttle position) increase, the fuel need increases, so more fuel, and more power avail.

since these things are supposed to pass emissions tests, and MOST driving is done at lower rpm, running with a leaner mix may be the way Ford designed it.

As a side note, if a chip is gonna be emissions legal (they gotta tell ya when its sold), its pretty limited as to what they can do with the fuel mapping, and remain legal ( assuming NO other parts are changed in the vehicle, such as different cats, ect).

you say the MAF is as clean as its gonna get.. what did you clean it with (some chemicals are bad for it). Also, it may just be going bad too!

The mixture guage you have.. how is it connected?? does it use its own O2 sensor, or piggyback onto the engines sensor, or some other way? Also, does it just say 'lean' and 'rich', or does it give an actual mixture measurement (numerical, as in 14-1 air/fuel)? If its just 'lean and rich', just what do them 'values' mean?? lean could be 15-1, and rich could be 13 to one.. both perfectly acceptable for most daily driver uses.. you actually have no way of know what the actual ratio is on them type guages.

Remember, 14.7 to 1 is what the makers usually strive for as ideal, but thats NOT for power reasons, but for emissions reasons.

your right about the fuel part, that definately makes sense, the gauge splices into the oxygen sensor wire...i forget which one but its the one that voltage goes back to the computer. Its a narrow band gauge and it just lights up, it doesnt tell me what the ratios are (i hate that but dont have the money for a wide band) and the chip does say its 50 state legal, and I hollowed out my cats. Its probably getting screwed up because of hardly any back pressure.

and i cleaned the MAF sensor with a rag and that special MAF sensor cleaner that disappears within like 10 seconds. i did this when the elctronics were out so i didnt screw anything up.
 




Michiganbear

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well the maf cleaner is the right stuff to use on the maf.

the spliced wire method of connecting the A/F meter is not the best. they cannot possibly know with certainty what the voltage from the sensor is for 'perfect' a/f ratio.. which btw, will vary slightly from sensor to sensor (even same p/n sensors). thats why our computers learn to compensate. Also, while not a large additional load on the o2 circuit, it will add some load, and potentially make the o2 sensor output an even lower voltage that its supposed to.
 




fmaster7

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well the maf cleaner is the right stuff to use on the maf.

the spliced wire method of connecting the A/F meter is not the best. they cannot possibly know with certainty what the voltage from the sensor is for 'perfect' a/f ratio.. which btw, will vary slightly from sensor to sensor (even same p/n sensors). thats why our computers learn to compensate. Also, while not a large additional load on the o2 circuit, it will add some load, and potentially make the o2 sensor output an even lower voltage that its supposed to.

very true. i think the only way to actually know is to directly connect to a "tuning computer" hhaha. i was always thinking my gauge was going crazy because of a bad o2 sensor but come to find out i had to reset the computer
 




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