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Tuning my 347 with rear mount turbo

Lol
Tranny Tim

JD, I just might take you up on your offer.

there might be 2 orders

Just let me know what case,year,model and all that and i can give him a call and see exactly what he would charge and how much he can boost it..i can take a video of it being tested also.

You do have to supply a unit to be built,he just replaces everything in it and re-spools it(maybe a more technical name but idk it)

Depending on which one you have my buddy may have some or the junk yard across street would
 



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That looks great, the whole thing is black(some only do part of the housing).

FYI, if you buy one directly from the maker, often you can request a specific pulley size. I got an 8-rib pulley on one of the units I got from DB. I think you could ask for a certain diameter too, and that saves money from having to buy something different later.
 






That looks great, the whole thing is black(some only do part of the housing).

FYI, if you buy one directly from the maker, often you can request a specific pulley size. I got an 8-rib pulley on one of the units I got from DB. I think you could ask for a certain diameter too, and that saves money from having to buy something different later.
DB is the advertised ""think was 200"" amp that burt up after a year and took to the local shop.it was in the smaller case and they said the amout of winding that needed to be in it to make 200 amps wouldnt even fit.
 






Jd, the alternator is a 4g with T housing.
Here's a picture of what it looks like.
http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com...-0l-explorer-200-amp-upgrade-black-7787c.html

Shipping could be a killer. Definitely shipping a core from here would drive the price thru the roof. the tuffstuff alternator Tim found on Summit for 270.00 might be a good option as Summit gets great shipping rates.
Thats not a bad price especially for not needing a core..im not sure what cores whould cost here at junk yard or shipping but probably end up around the same.

I would try a over drive pulley first if you dont have crazy stuff running,like a system or something. That should up the amps at idle if your not really needing more anywhere

These guys,been around forever. .

http://www.browningsalternator.com
 






I agree for your truck try the smallest pulley first. You aren't turning high rpm's so there's no worry about hurting the alternator. Hopefully the belt wrap is very good and the tensioner is strong.

Tim/vroomzoomboom is using a larger crank pulley which already makes his alternator produce more current at a given rpm. I'm going to be using a similar 7" pulley so I'll see how the alternator does with the pulley I have now, which I think is the stock diameter.
 






I agree for your truck try the smallest pulley first. You aren't turning high rpm's so there's no worry about hurting the alternator. Hopefully the belt wrap is very good and the tensioner is strong.

Tim/vroomzoomboom is using a larger crank pulley which already makes his alternator produce more current at a given rpm. I'm going to be using a similar 7" pulley so I'll see how the alternator does with the pulley I have now, which I think is the stock diameter.

but i also have a larger alt pulley as well.
 






My needs are not as immediate as Tims. My alternator will do just fine once the crazy heat is done for the year. And, I think its done. I now have close to a year to sort something out.

JD, I'd appreciate you talking to your alternator guy. It sounds like you have a rare find in a guy that really knows his $h1t and is straight up and honest.
 






but i also have a larger alt pulley as well.

Right, you did that to be easier on the alternator. I think it would be fine with the stock size too, that is do a little math and compare the rpm's, knowing how how the DOHC 4.6 engines spin theirs. I'd ask about the 4G alternator's limits from a good shop that is trustworthy, kind of where this discussion has been recently.

Has anyone noticed that there is a clutched alternator pulley available for the Marauder, or it's an aftermarket thing. I saw it but didn't consider it, I just thought it was odd, it evidently free wheels at high rpm. I saw that on eBay years ago, but those DOHC's turn 7500rpm etc.
 






The clutched pulleys came from the factory on some Crown Vics and probably some other vehicles.
We had 5 Crown Vic Police cars and they all had one on them. I say had because we donated 2 to another campus.
Still have three I think.
 






Trouble in paradise. My waste gate can't vent enough exhaust pressure to get me below 14lbs boost.

Options are:
1. Tune for it (I'm at 7 degrees [17 total] and hear detonation when I hit 14 lbs boost)and hope I don't end up with a split down the center of my block and/or drive line breakage.
2. Find a bigger waste gate and get it welded in.

I can clearly hear the woosh of the waste gate so I know its opening, but boost control is seriously lacking.

I know the right thing to do is suck it up and get a bigger waste gate.
 






Be easy on it, the pistons can't take that pressure for long, and a poor tune is the kiss of death for them, and soon after the block. Some people manage to push theirs for a while. That's where you hear about a stock block making 600hp, but that's super rare. Do you feel lucky?
 






Nope. not one bit.
I need to get that boost down.
 






Good answer. You've worked very hard to get it to where it is, Tim too.:thumbsup:
 






Do you have an internal or external wastegate now?
If external get a new one put on.
 






External. its a 2 bolt style, but I see the are adapters to the v band style. I really dreaded the thought of going back to the exhaust shop.

I have a 38mm unit, and am hoping a 44mm will work. there is no real rule as to sizing. I'm thinking eBay china knockoff as guys do seem to have success with them. Problem with this is the wait time. Problem with just ordering from summit, etc. Is the price.
 






Still haven't replaced the waste gate. on my highway trip I kept running in to detonation.
Today I again turned my attention to the shift/lock schedule. I am certain I was dropping in to 4th gear too quickly and locking the torque converter too quickly under light load. This was lugging he motor at too low of rpm's.
I made good headway with adjusting both axis (throttle position and speed) pretty quickly today. I'm pretty close, I just need to find that fine line on the highway that he tc locks up, but unlocks fairly quickly when the throttle position increases slightly.

Vroomzoomboom, expect a new revision his weekend. I'm pretty sure this modified schedule will work better for you also.
 






If backing off the timing doesn't cure it you could try running a slightly richer mixture where it acts up.
How was the fuel mileage on your trip?
I averaged 13 yesterday in my 1998, that is a best I believe. My stock truck gets 14. lol.
 






highway mileage is about 18 I think. The computer shows just under 20, but I'm sure that's a dream.
I'm pretty sure that the rpm's were just too low for the load, causing detonation. I think I have fixed the issue just by getting the truck to unlock the converter/downshift faster.

I don't want to pull timing at low rpm as I want that for increased gas mileage. If I can get the tc unlock/4th gear downshift happening sooner (but keep locked up and in 4th under light load on the hwy) I won't have the detonation issue.

It seems with the turbo, much lighter throttle application is required to maintain hwy speed and load increases much lighter throttle also. I'd think you and Tim would be experiencing the same thing.
 



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as much as i want to get cranking away on my tune, i think its wise to just wait until the new alt comes in. the truck feels all over the place from day to day using the butt dyno and i am almost sure its because of the charging issue.
 






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