Turbo 4 Conversion, The Nasty Hoe Gets Blown!

[storlied]

Damn, you're almost done then. (too bad shipping isn't instant =P)

 

[SVO]

Mechanical Mock-Up Phase 99% Complete!

I pulled the motor and transmission again today.

So as far as the mock-up goes, it's pretty much a done deal, a little trimming on the powersteering pump to give a little more clearance to the high pressure and return hose.

Clearence the valve cover breather seperator on top of the valve cover to firewall.

Still had to modify the motor mounts to get the right dangle on the angle.

May still have to get a Ranger automatic transmission filler tube and dip stick.

BUT! I can now start on getting the wiring set-up, so now I need to pull the dash assy and start building the wiring harnesses that will be used for the chassis and powertrain.

These motor set-ups are already a cluster from Ford (wiring and plumbing), so I'm going to try and clean it up as much as possible to that majority of the wiring is hidden.

Here are some pictures, that should give you and idea of FINALLY how it's all supposed to fit in there, note how far back it sits and the, and there is no more list to the driver's side, very close tollerances between the engine and firewall, plus the power steering pump bracket/steering gear box, and that it all fits under the hood line nice and clean.

Feels like I finally got somewhere today!

Enjoy!

Jeff - :navajo:

 

[SVO]

HAHAHAHHAHA!

As you can probably tell this is a very tight fit between the firewall and getting the motor in the motor mounts, Jtsmith and I were talking on the phone looking at the scratches on the fire wall.

I was thinking I'll just put the long block in and then assemble the rest of the engine, when this time comes around.


[Homer voice] DOH!!! [/Homer voice]

As Jtsmith and I were talking on the phone, he asked.......

"How are you going to get the valvecover off?!?!?!"

We talked about cutting the firewall and such, but basically came to the conclusion that I'll build the long block with the valve cover on it, then drop it in and then assemble the rest of the motor while it's in the rig, that way I don't scratch it all up on assembly.

What about service later, well if it comes to that I'll disassemble it the same way and pull it, it doesn't take that long, maybe an extra hour on top of the normal pulling of the motor, NO BIGGIE

These are very reliable motors anyways, and will take hella abuse, so I'm not really worried about having to go back into it anytime soon.



BTW, Thanx Jon for eyeing that for me, sounds like you and I need to work together


Jeff - :navajo:

 

[james t]

I dont know if cutting the firewall would help you much anyways... just eyeballing but it looks like even with the firewall cut it would be near impossible to get to the rear cover bolts. Getting them out would be doable but putting them back in would require gumby hands.

This thing is going to be so pimp when you're done you're going to need a purple hat with a feather and boots with goldfish in the heels.

 

[SVO]

I dont know if cutting the firewall would help you much anyways... just eyeballing but it looks like even with the firewall cut it would be near impossible to get to the rear cover bolts. Getting them out would be doable but putting them back in would require gumby hands.

I'm not going to mod the firewall, as I mentioned to Jon, if I do that, there is no way to be able to paint or coat the raw metal behind it, creating a place for the cowl to start rusting and rotting.

These are really reliable engines, so the need for removing the valve cover after the fact is minimal to none.

Once this is built I'm really not worried about having to service anything under the valve cover, and again servicing the valve cover isn't that bad, getting the tools back there are cake, remember, if you have enough of the right tools you built them like Lego's to get at the area you need to be in

After getting the engine/transmission in the correct place, the frontend raised up approx 1" from the inital trial fitment, so now I have a pre-runner look going on


This is looking from the passesger side from under the intercooler towards the driver's side (note the oil seperator/PCV breather interference):

Looking fron the driver's side down on top of the cowl/valve cover (note damage done tring to get the engine in place):

Jeff - :navajo:

 

[SVO]

Just to give you an idea, how much of a train wreck the wiring/plumbing is under the hood of an SVO I have a couple of pictures, the first one is of the white 1985 SVO (Show Car) that I bought from Terry Furlong (yes the gutarist from The Grass Roots), the second picture is the Function Rather than Form, 306hp 1985.5 SVO with an (way more stuff than listed here) A-237 cam, T3T4E hybrid, and TC intercooler.

Also note, as some of you were going to point out on the Navajo that, YES the intercooler does sit a little ****eyed, and that is intentional:

1985

1985.5

The 1985.5 had a wicked nasty lope to the idle, and upon first hearing it you would almost think it was a V-8, just to give you an idea, of what it actually sounded like, and the very good possibility of what this creature is going to sound like here is a clip of Jess and his cammed and majorly modded Ranger with twin turbos, Cheap speakers/sound systems need not apply, faint of heart need not apply, batteries not included.

Mmmm dejavu! Enjoy (yes the clutch is slipping):

http://www.rangersrevenge.com/videos/ttranger.wmv



Jeff -

 

[410Fortune]

move the engine forward?
couldnt you change the valve cover by jacking up the trans/transfer case a bit? Its not like your fan is going to hit your radiator! LOL

 

[SVO]

move the engine forward?
couldnt you change the valve cover by jacking up the trans/transfer case a bit? Its not like your fan is going to hit your radiator! LOL

Actually it's cooled by an electric fan, but your right it won't interfere.

The trans won't allow it to be jacked up far enough to get that kind of clearence, the tranny and T-case would actually have to come out.

I really don't want to, not can I move it forward due in part to the oil pan, that was the whole issue before that it was hitting the crossmember, cause of the location of the pick-up tube in the pan configuration.

Plus I want to get as much of a 50/50 wieght split as I can not only for crawling but, just incase I want a little "Air Time"

BTW I found a Bronco II EFI fuel tank (1990 flavor) so I can also keep this 50/50 split, that's why I ditched the 19 gallon side tank, equipped in the Ex, but what I need to know is the OHM's resistance of the fuel level sender as the T-Bird sending unit is 8-14 OHM's full and 60-86 OHM's full a little BII help in this dept. would be golden



Jeff - :navajo:

 

[410Fortune]

you mean 8-14 ohms empty 60-86 full?
I know where to look to find this info, obviously the 84-85 had a different gage then the 86-88 and then again in 89-90 but I am pretty damn sure the 86-90 BII in tank sender did not change...just the dash

for your firewall whats wrong with a little BFH?
I whacked the living &^(*%$) out of mine to stuff the 4r70w and exhaust with no body lift (actually about a 3/8" body drop with urethane mounts compared to stock rubber)

 

[SVO]

you mean 8-14 ohms empty 60-86 full?
I know where to look to find this info, obviously the 84-85 had a different gage then the 86-88 and then again in 89-90 but I am pretty damn sure the 86-90 BII in tank sender did not change...just the dash

The 89-90 tank is the one I found and I'm going to use, because it's an EFI tank, since the resistance is dictated by the sending unit in the tank, I'll see if can be changed with a resistor to bring it into spec.

The backwards resistance that you see is correct, and the tank goes to empty the resistance becomes greater, almost like and NTC (Negitive Tempature Coeffecient sensor) or thermister resistor.

As tempature rises the resistance decreaces, and so forth.

But I have to use the later BII tank cause of the EFI set up, and to be able to use the 255lph pump I have, and for the return line.



And really, I'm not all that worried about the valve cover issues, other than popping a head gasket cause of too much boost/timing (which this turbo is not effiecent above 20psi), and I'm running some eletronics that allow me to custom tailor the timing maps with out a chip (3 programs, 1 stock, and 2 modded maps)

They can be exicuted by a momentary push button switch(steering wheel mounted), or non-momentary switch (console/dash mounted) allowing me to flop between timing programs that can modded at 500 rpm increments(all of which can be over ridden pending on which switch is actuated), with a rev limiter that can cut either 1-3 cylinders witout loss in substantial power like most rev limiters, and this unit will also control 2 outputs that I can designate.

And this mearly plugs into the "SPOUT" connector of the TFI modual harness.

Funny you mention dropping the body on your rig, which was one of the considerations I had for mine to lower the CG and make it a bit more stable.


And as for removing the engine, as many times as I have done it already, pulling it is really not a big deal nor hassel, I belive once the set-up is finalized, I really won't have to worry about jerking it out any time soon, and if I do, it not that hard, plus one of these engine will run with a popped head gasket for quite a while, although you get boost/compression swap between the cylinders, it will still run under it's own power to get it back off the trails and to camp or trailer to be taken home for repairs, a trail side reapair could be made, but a bit more effort would have to go into it.

 

[SVO]

I guess in short, I'm just being a wussie about molesting the sheet metal, I guess I'd like to keep it looking as stock as possible.





LMFAO! There's some irony ^^^^^

 

[SVO]

 

[Turdle]

I see someone decided to go the extra effort route here-

 

[Blee1099]

So thats what a Navajo looks like without a dash. lol

 

[cybergasm]

NIce ho you have there got more pics?

 

[SVO]

NIce hoe you have there got more pics?

You want the naked ones, or the EF PC ones :




So Dejello's truck gave some parts for my kit bashing party, here is what is left of his rig, as now the rest of it lies in the big EF salvage yard in the sky.

I took the quarter panels so I could "tub" mine cause I was having a rubbing issue, even with wheel spacers.

Jeff - :navajo:

 

[SVO]

 

[410Fortune]

seriously? SVO gage pod in a Gen I dash?
awesomeness

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, I like that a bunch more than the stock cluster. Is the speedometer available with more than 85mph though?

 

[410Fortune]

THE OLD 135 MPH speedos are all spoken for I am pretty sure, did the aftermarket even come up with a solution?

The 84-90 BII and Ranger had the same thing, 85 MPH speedo, you could get a 135 MPH speedo from Ford about 10 years ago, been that long since I have seen one