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Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

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Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

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And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 



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Here is the fantastic new driveshaft put in the truck and ready to do some work! :) And of course with the 4406 swap the shaft is close to the tank but it can't hit it at all T-Case hits the gas tanks steel support hanger before the shaft touches the tank. So there is no way for it to hit. Fits like a glove.
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Painted and installed the transmission cross member. Turned out great and holds the trans in just the right spot.
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Used grade 8 1/2" bolts and washers to bolt the cross member through the tubes to the frame. :) You can also see how the front shaft will clear it just fine. :) The remainder of the frame side of the factory cross member will be cut off so that part will be gone.
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Explorer sitting next to my Taurus.
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Attached the oil filter lines to the engine side. Trying to find a place to run these lines was a royal PITA. It is all SO tight in there with that steering box.
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Long story short is I spent a few hours trying to find where I wanted the filter and where it would fit with the lines running smooth and no chance of kinks. Took forever. But the determination is that to mount it on the bottom of the battery box is the best location. Can be serviced easy and is up and protected. There will be a guard around it so rain and mud cant get to it.

Fitting the remote mount to the bottom of the battery box. One of the big bolts as you can see was put through the metal battery hold down plate to make sure that it doesn't go anywhere.
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Since the bolts went through the bottom of the battery box I used a dremel to sand them down flat to the battery box so that it wont wear into the battery. That would of course be bad. I then needed some more piece of mind so I countersunk some holes into the battery box and then drilled through the mount so that I could run some screws to the mount. I then cut the screws that went through the mount. I then removed all screws and sanded with 24 grit the bottom of the mounts and the battery box. I then put lots of silicone down and re bolted the mount to the battery box with all 5 bolts. All of which are flat to the box so as not to rub a hole in the battery. Also all siliconed on. Cleaned it up on edges with my fingers and then I feel good about it.
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Here it is mounted to the battery box and the box reinstalled back into the truck. I also then ran and hooked up the lines.
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I though for some reason that it would take the factory filter the 820S but it isn't the right thread and size so I had to run back to the store to find one. There was 2 motorcraft ones the 400S which is small and the one my Taurus uses or the huge 1A. So I got the huge one and thought I'd try my luck to see if it would fit. It did but as you can see in the first picture when you start to thread it on it is rubbing the shock hoop. Lol, it is wicked close but works great. But it is very tight in there. Anyways turned out great and that's as far as I got last week with moving in and all the other things that where going on. So Friday is my day off so I plan to spend ALL day Friday working on the truck. Hope to make some good progress.
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Today I got the intermediate shaft built. Was more work then I expected it to be. I reused all of the factory IFS shaft except where it splines to the steering gear. I will post pics of it later but I didn't want a rag joint in there so I Used the factory shaft that has a double cardan joint. :) Really smooth very strong. :)

I also got the pressure side P/S line done as well I couldn't get the return line to work (line was 3/8" and steering gear uses a 5/16") So I will try to find a flarenut and 5/16" line tomorrow and get that done. When the truck is running I may just head over to EVCO house of hose to have them build me a set of new lines :) But when I get that return line done it will be ready to start again!!! :) Probably wont though until the steering gear mounting plate is finished welded on. That way I don't have to deal with disconnecting lines and cleaning P/S fluid off the weld areas.

Anyways those 2 things and the tabs for the rear brake lines is all I got done today. :( O well slowly but surely. Now being in the city not in a small WY town 1 car is a big pain in my side. Want this on the road :)
 






Today I got the intermediate shaft built. Was more work then I expected it to be. I reused all of the factory IFS shaft except where it splines to the steering gear. I will post pics of it later but I didn't want a rag joint in there so I Used the factory shaft that has a double cardan joint. :) Really smooth very strong. :)

I also got the pressure side P/S line done as well I couldn't get the return line to work (line was 3/8" and steering gear uses a 5/16") So I will try to find a flarenut and 5/16" line tomorrow and get that done. When the truck is running I may just head over to EVCO house of hose to have them build me a set of new lines :) But when I get that return line done it will be ready to start again!!! :) Probably wont though until the steering gear mounting plate is finished welded on. That way I don't have to deal with disconnecting lines and cleaning P/S fluid off the weld areas.

Anyways those 2 things and the tabs for the rear brake lines is all I got done today. :( O well slowly but surely. Now being in the city not in a small WY town 1 car is a big pain in my side. Want this on the road :)

All you need for a return line is a stock F150/Ranger/Bronco/F250 line. They are the same but already had the right fitting for the box. As far as the rag joint I used it cause I wanted to absorb the road vibes. Works great. Looking good!
 






Well it moves on its own!!!!!! :) It feels great to. Just drove it around the yard. I need to pack the front bearings all the way and put grease seals in and hubs in. Then I have to fix an oil leak from the oil filter relocation lines. They are leaking on the engine side which sucks because to fix it I will have to pull the P/S box out. But o well. So tonight going to pack the bearings and go for a drive around the neighborhood. :) Very excited. It does have a little of the explorer lean going on though so will need to get that fixed as well. Everything is on the left side battery, gas tank, steering box, driver etc.

I did flex it on my uncles grass hill about 28" or so and it soaks it up so easy its great!!! Ill post some pictures later.

So things that are left:
Oil line leak
Pack front bearings
Fix the lean
Load front gears
Get front DS made
Mud flaps
 






Nice!! Cant wait to see pics!!
 






Hear are the teaser pics of it on that grass slope. The bottom two are of where the slope is taller.

Even despite what it looks like the front tire is a few inches away from the front of the fender.
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That thing looks mean:D Hows the rear wheel to fender clearance?
 






So far really good!! With all that I have flexed it and driven it has never rubbed at all. I was really surprised. The front has rubbed a little a few times but I knew that since I pushed the front axle CL 2" forward. But even under stuff I can turn full lock to lock and it doesn't rub on the back of the front fenders at all or the the front of the quarter panels. :) I didn't want to have to trim either of those areas at all.

So far I am very pleased with it. It will be a VERY mean truck. Will love driving past groups of h**pers. Ill post up a few pics of it in the construction site I drove around in on Wednesday. It was on a ledge that's at least half of the 37's. Bad pics because it was getting dark. But the rest of this week I have plans with the wife and baby but Monday Ill work on it all day.
 






Here is the splice from the master cylinder to the rear brake lines. I did the same thing with the front line as well. I used the factory master cylinder ends since they have bubble flares instead of double flares. I don't have the tools to make a bubble flare so reusing the factory master cyl lines worked out great. Also the factory hard lines have a section of braided flex line in it so I wanted to use that so that the lines have the flex lines in them for body and frame differences while flexing.
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Frame side of the rear axle drop line. Stainless steel nylon lined hoses from BC Broncos. Both front and back drop lines are 26" long.
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Then the axle mounts for the rear caliper flex lines. Its the same on both sides. I used a right rear factory flex line for both sides for the rear calipers.
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Axle side mount for the rear drop line.
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The bent brake line for the left rear. It looks simple but getting all the angles right and starting bends at the right spot takes some practice. Sorry for all these crappy pictures they are all with my phone and I think it had some crap on the lens.
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Hard line hooked to the rear caliper flex lines.
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