Completed Project - Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread | Page 32 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

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Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.

First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.





And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!


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I also got the slash all finished. I used some liquid masking on the inside and it worked awesome. Much easier to make the designs you want. So I did all the black parts first.

Then did my design, marbling effect is what I was going for. Didn't want it to just be a solid color.

Then a few coats of the blue.


Back the whole rig in black.

And all done. Took a bit to make the lines look really sharp and straight. And I am really happy with how it turned out.

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Turned out great. But man those wheels look terrible on with that body so they had to go.

Wheels all painted (plasti dipped) black.

Had to paint the paddle tire rims as well.

Looks a million times better now!

I also got a cover for it to keep most of the sand out of the chassis and it has worked really well haven't seen any real increase in motor and esc temps at all. But way worth keeping the sand out of the spur gear and bearing.

Then last if you look at the tires I used 4" PVC pipe and stuffed the tires into them. Drift rings!!! Works amazing, can drift all over the place, still has good traction so you have a ton of control. 4WD helps to. Very fun!

First factory axles I used a lathe, there is pictures of it somewhere in this thread. These current ones I just used a grinder. Took forever! But turned out great, just took my time to make them look really good.

Cool! That's what I will do. It looks like it was not even all the way around just the front corner edge?

I still can't believe you broke a shaft. Must be that v8. I beat on mine with 37s a locker and a doubler and the rear held up great. I did kill a ls carrier once though. Love the pics- makes me miss Utah!

Cool! That's what I will do. It looks like it was not even all the way around just the front corner edge?

I still can't believe you broke a shaft. Must be that v8. I beat on mine with 37s a locker and a doubler and the rear held up great. I did kill a ls carrier once though. Love the pics- makes me miss Utah!

Correct. Can paint the edge that you have ground down with a sharpie. Then set the rotor on (minus studs) and spin it, you can then see where it rubbed off the marker. Do this until the rotor sits fully flat down on the axle shaft.

And yeah not sure, don't think many have broken the 8.8 shaft, but I managed to! :) Was pretty heavy on the throttle though. And when it slipped the weight of the rig hit the rear and it bit hard. Guess something had to give. I know it wont be my rear drive shaft. :D

And some more. Sun wasn't out much of the day but it sure did pop out for some great sunset pictures. Not to mention wheeling and just watching the sunset was awesome!



Trying to get a picture that shows how bright the 30" light bar is. Was SO nice to have at night on the sand dunes.






Here is the wall of doom! Crazy steep, and even with my longer wheelbase you can't get the front tires on top before your rears are against.

My rig stands 7' 3". That can give you a reference to the size of the wall.








My rear bumper is very tall. And I drug it pretty well. Just parked on it for some pictures, seeing as how I was down there for Christmas and we had a ton to get home etc I figured I wouldn't give it a try. Have to spin a bit and throttle up some to get over it, figure I didn't want another broken axle. Probably wouldn't but hey that weekend I'd rather just avoid it. :)



sector 9 standing next to it on the wall. Was steep enough that some water that was on the cowl panel ran up the windshield instead of down.



"Think Skinny !!!" Nice pictures.

Well its been 2 months. It has sat mostly. I bought a 2003 Duramax that is in fantastic shape for a price I couldn't pass up so I have been going through that to get it ready to sell. (Should pay for front sway bar, Fox bumps for the front, and metal for front and rear bumpers, and a list of things the wife wants as well)

Anyways have pulled with it and same as stock it could care less. Can't really tell a difference, however the bumper is a bit high I think. What do you guys think?


I have a drop hitch for it but need a actual receiver so I can use it.

Also Its been out wheeling a few times since the last pictures and the last trip last Sunday was a blast, was really muddy so was slick on all the rocks going up to forest lake and at the top found a TON of snow. The only rig to get through it was a buggy on 40's and he had to winch through. I will get those pictures up this week.

And been to the dunes a bunch and have had a blast with the RC car. Wheelie shot then one you can see how high I was throwing it by how hard it is landing in the picture.


Then this is what happens when you hit a solid piece of concrete at 45mph :) Full out on a 2cell and smashed it straight on. Fared really well, new chassis and drive shaft for $26 and its all running again.


We went out for a late night run last Saturday, really late. Didn't even leave the house until 11:45p.m. The wife and daughter ended up falling asleep before we got to the trail and slept the whole time. :eek: How I will never know, I was running it down the trail pretty hard.

Anyways went with Sam from Teraflex Suspensions and sector9 on the forum.
Was fun to use the lightbars on the trucks for the evening.





Had to post to show the sweet new jack stands I just ordered. So good I bought 4 :rolleyes: Over in bkennedy's SAS Thread we talked about how having things in the garage high enough to support the lifted trucks is pain and how using blocks and things are sketchy at best. And its a pain to unload the front suspensions to get the C/O's out when they have 14" of shock travel.

I take no credit in finding these but did do some searching to find what they are. I have seen pictures of them before. Pictures like this one from Paul B's build

And from Camburg's pictures

Led me to these -
Sumner Pipe Stands

They hold plenty of weight for 2 to hold the front or rear of the rig safely at a good height and no blocks involved. They have the quick slide up tube and the ACME thread screw and handle. So literally slide under the rig slide tube up to frame twist the handle a few turns to load the weight and lift a few inches then can pull tires and drop axle and then pull coils. Done in like 15 minutes easy and done safely.

I did order the Lo-Jack version that does from 21"-36" The highest parts on my frame at ride height are 30 in the front and 32 in the rear. Also the 21" low height allows me to use the stands for sliders, bumpers, holding an axle up at full bump, etc. At $61 a piece you can't build them for that.

Last night when I was talking to sirhk100 and we where running through some things and plans and ideas for a few upcoming projects on my X, said he has wanted some of those for years and may pick some up as well.

Super excited for them. Now I can unload the front and start to play with some things some more. Lots of projects to come after the baby's room and things are fully finished and ready for him to arrive.

That looks like the answer to the jack stand / floor jack being too short issues.

O yeah! That's what I was going for. And a lot cheaper than I thought which was a nice surprise. Can't wait to try them out.

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