Completed Project - Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread | Page 45 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

P1020388.JPG

P1020410.JPG

P1020476.JPG

P1020488.JPG


And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.








Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I was reading in another forum and someone posted that vibration in the drive line can be caused by not having the U-joints front and rear lined-up. I guess the crosses need to be lined up in the drive shaft. I never heard of that before and now I have to go look at mine.
 






Yes it will if the two on the same shaft are out of phase with each other. UsuAlly happens when someone pver extends a shaft and pull the splines apart then puts them back together. On turbos, I am sure tom woods built them in phase with each other.
 






Besides the vibration issues. Your truck is really sharp looking for 17yr old vehicle. Better looking than most current vehicles.

Thanks I really appreciate it! Spend extra time and money to keep it really cleanly built.
 






I just had a vibration issue, and it turned out to be one bad cap on the rear ujoint.

Have 2 complete drive shafts and both have all 3 joints new. No change in any of it. :(

I was reading in another forum and someone posted that vibration in the drive line can be caused by not having the U-joints front and rear lined-up. I guess the crosses need to be lined up in the drive shaft. I never heard of that before and now I have to go look at mine.

Yes just like [MENTION=130491]Kirby[/MENTION] N said below, they need to be in phase with each other and that has been checked and both drive shafts are good. Most have issues when someone with a drive shaft that has a slip spline in the middle (like my front shaft or front and rear of my brothers 91) get pulled apart. They MUST go back together on the same spline they slid apart on, if not it will be out of phase and vibrate.

Yes it will if the two on the same shaft are out of phase with each other. UsuAlly happens when someone pver extends a shaft and pull the splines apart then puts them back together. On turbos, I am sure tom woods built them in phase with each other.

Yup Tom Woods did it correctly but vibration is still there.
 






I have taken it out here and there and driven around a little, still unable to locate it. I took it out last Sunday and beat on it fairly hard, did some full throttle pulls from a stop to 70mph. Figure at this point I need something to let go so I know what it is. :rolleyes:

I have been super focused on work and working towards a promotion so that has taken almost all of my time the last 2 months. This last week my work flew me to CO to interview for the position and it went really well so that is all over now.

Look forward to looking into the issue again, want it ready for when the snow fly's. My goal this winter is to have a picture with the 37's fully buried. Wicked stuck!!! :D
 






Look forward to looking into the issue again, want it ready for when the snow fly's. My goal this winter is to have a picture with the 37's fully buried. Wicked stuck!!! :D

Do you have a wicked stuck picture yet? :)
 






I noticed when you were building your shock hoops that you removed the coolant and washer fluid reservoirs. Did you replace them with something else? Also, the ABS unit is gone. Anything tricky needed to remove that and keep the vehicle happy?
 






Also, the ABS unit is gone. Anything tricky needed to remove that and keep the vehicle happy?

Does pulling the ABS light out count as happy? That's what I did on my first gen explorer. :D
 






Haha, well I currently don't have the front ABS sensors on my truck (modified lift spindles won't allow for them) so the ABS light is on without any other effects. But I'm curious if removing the whole unit creates any further issues.
 






[MENTION=698]Dignan[/MENTION] No but I have been out in the snow I should get those pictures posted shouldn't I :rolleyes: I'll get some posted from last week taking it out with [MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION].

[MENTION=61940]mounty71[/MENTION] I did move the factory coolant overflow bottle, I am still using the factory one and it is located between the fender and the shook hoop still on the right side of the truck. I ended up using a rubber sealed tupperware for the washer bottle, cut a correct sized hole put in the factory rubber grommet and pump. Its smaller than it should be but it works.

On the factory ABS unit I disassembled it. I removed the pump and servo section from the control section. The black control section is still hooked up in the truck. It is needed to have a speedometer reading and several other things that go through there. So no other affects besides of course ABS codes for no front wheel speed sensor inputs. Can't do anything about that so the dash light has been removed.
 






So last weekend me and [MENTION=137709]sector9[/MENTION] headed out west in the trucks. We went about 60 miles west from our homes and it really turned out to be a great drive with the families. We found some cool things that we stopped and played at for awhile as we where just out for a drive in search of some snowy roads. Also is the deepest snow either of us have had our trucks in and pleased that they just walked right through it like it was nothing. Was a lot of fun and just want it to really snow again.

Still only went about 55mph the whole way since the vibration is still there but was great to get the truck out. Always forget how much I love driving it. May need to spend some refocused time trying to correct the issue as soon as it climbs back into the 40's or so and isn't so dang wet and cold.

1.jpg


Found this and thought hey that looks like fun to climb! Steel was in good shape but the wood was not, sure looks cool though.
2.jpg


3.jpg


4.jpg


5.jpg


The girls and kids all giving us a wave.
6.jpg


Snow was very bright and my 2 little ones had a hard time opening their eyes but still a good picture.
7.jpg


Heading very west!
8.jpg


And then the snow gets deeper........
9.jpg


10.jpg
 






























Deep enough to fill my grill with snow. Both me and sector9 left with snow packed grills :)
20160124_143714.jpg


IMG_20160124_143330.jpg


20160124_143727.jpg


20160124_143723.jpg


Nice and deep!
IMG_20160124_142650.jpg


Heading back, was fun to just fly at 55mph on the snow packed roads.
20160124_151400.jpg


Final picture is one of my favorites.
IMG_20160124_142706.jpg
 






Man that looks like a lot of fun in the snow. I have a lot of work to do on my explorer, but you are definitely motivating me to get on it.
 






Hey everybody its sure been awhile hasn't it?

I have some great news! At least from what I could tell yesterday my truck is finally able to go at least 70mph again!!!!!!

There is a little bit of a story for how I ended up there and still not 100% sure what I want to do moving forward but it is now usable.

Who is ready for some more awesome truck projects?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top