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U-Joint Angles

imp

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59 Ranchero F250 D'Line
It has always been emphasized by Dana Spicer Engineering that they like to see about 2 degrees of misalignment between connections to a Cardan (Universal Joint):

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This allows for equalization of wear in the parts, promoting long life. This angle varies in vehicles continuously with suspensions which travel up and down. In my 2004 Explorer, though, with independent suspension front and rear, the differential carriers are fixed by mounting solidly on the frame, only the driving axles move up and down. Both driveshafts look like they are in a straight line. 185,000 miles on them now. Whaddaya think?
 



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That I wouldn't try to change something that seems to have worked for 185K mi. and I'm not sure if I could eyeball tell a 2' difference, but I feel like Ford has been making vehicles for long enough that if this were a problem, they'd have spec'd something else to make it work.
 












i mean i suspect ford had a reason to do it that way? and how do you plan to achieve changing the driveline angle? not too usre.
 






i mean i suspect ford had a reason to do it that way? and how do you plan to achieve changing the driveline angle? not too usre.
My point is not to change the driveline angles, but rather consider that given easy means of installation and removal of the shafts if necessary, splined slip joints front and back might remove the need for u-joints altogether. Unless the frame bends dynamically under driving conditions, making flexible ends necessary.
 






it does bend flex and twist, , and the engine and trans AND diffs move around inside of their mounts... I like U joints way better then the CV style shaft ends
 






My point is not to change the driveline angles, but rather consider that given easy means of installation and removal of the shafts if necessary, splined slip joints front and back might remove the need for u-joints altogether. Unless the frame bends dynamically under driving conditions, making flexible ends necessary.
i see! ive got nothin novel to add here then :)
 






it does bend flex and twist, , and the engine and trans AND diffs move around inside of their mounts... I like U joints way better then the CV style shaft ends
Keep in mind the use of standard U-Joints on Corvette rear drive axles: in 1967 I heard horror stories, corroborated, of great numbers of failed rear axle U-joints with big engines. Dana Spicer recommended maximum torque applied for that style joint at 1200 ft-lbs. Use of rear gear ratios like 4:11 could put 4000 ft-lbs and more on them, they were failing all over the place. The tri-lobed CV joints in use today use needle-bearinged rollers with are super strong, last a long time, and are cheap to manufacture.
 












I do know that we had some vibrations on 5.0 converted trucks using the 4406 t case
4 door explorers usually, but also heard of some vibes on Rangers.
Balanced shafts, all new everything, could not defeat the 60-70mph vibration

I studied this for a couple of years, researching a solution
I believe it was here on EF when it was discovered that the angles of the 4406 t case inside the gen II chassis, the driveshaft angles were too good, not enough offset, it was too close to perfect. The U joints want some mis alignment, just a little bit.
So I made a crossmember that uses a urethane mount and moves the t case to the drivers side 1/4"

so far it has fixed one ranger that had vibes
None of the other trucks I have built this crossmember for have the vibes, so it maybe working! However I have not converted anymore 4 door explorers only Rangers and Sport tracs

The vibes usually occur in 4 door explorers with the E shift 4406. Time will tell if moving the t case over slightly works in theory it does, and in one truck it has worked so far
 






I do know that we had some vibrations on 5.0 converted trucks using the 4406 t case
4 door explorers usually, but also heard of some vibes on Rangers.
Balanced shafts, all new everything, could not defeat the 60-70mph vibration

I studied this for a couple of years, researching a solution
I believe it was here on EF when it was discovered that the angles of the 4406 t case inside the gen II chassis, the driveshaft angles were too good, not enough offset, it was too close to perfect. The U joints want some mis alignment, just a little bit.
So I made a crossmember that uses a urethane mount and moves the t case to the drivers side 1/4"

so far it has fixed one ranger that had vibes
None of the other trucks I have built this crossmember for have the vibes, so it maybe working! However I have not converted anymore 4 door explorers only Rangers and Sport tracs

The vibes usually occur in 4 door explorers with the E shift 4406. Time will tell if moving the t case over slightly works in theory it does, and in one truck it has worked so far

That's the thing to do. The joints do have to have a little angle from one end/trans to the other/diff. I didn't remember their optimum was 2*, but that sounds reasonable. I was planning to check my drive shaft angles when I got to upgrading things and have to make different shafts.

I am still aiming to keep my AWD though, I wonder if one of those high end CV's are applicable to the AWD front CV mount? I know there is a Dana/Spicer component made with that six bolt CV pattern, I found it after having an adapter plate made in 2004 to use a u-joint there(my first front shaft CV failed then). I like the general size of the front shaft, since it easily clears the exhaust down pipe at the front.
 






there are a few places now where you can get an adapter to go on the front of your t case, allows you to use a first gen style front d shaft with the AWD, a really good option for any gen II owner really
 






Yeah, I'll have to piece something together when I make that 6R trans go in. Driveshafts are very expensive these days too, I hope to only do that one more time.
 






I build my own these days, I cannot afford $600 to re tube a d shaft X 2 and $1500 per diff to INSTALL gears.... it is getting out of hand. TIME for DIY!!!!!!!
 






Very true. That's why I've collected the parts to build my two diffs, so I can learn to set up the gears and pinion nut myself.
 






delete the crush washers, it will make life easier for you (and me!)
 






@imp is the old expert here, I was planning to bend his ear to help with some of that. I'd love to use just a set thickness washer, I need more detailed guidance on how to do that. I have the two better Dewalt impact guns, I wonder if those are usable to do the pinon nut and washer etc?
 






my dewalt 20V impact will rip the pinion nut off no problem, It is the 1300 ft lb removal model, 1100 ft lbs install I believe
Very little stops that impact
 






I think my big one is one step smaller than that one. It's very heavy and it barely fit into the case I bought for the normal version. I think the spec was 600lbsft or so, which is still huge.
 



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