U Joints?

[massacre]

Hello,

I will be replacing ball joints, spindle bearings and u-joints in the front of my 94 4x4. I ordered the joints and the spindle bearings, but does anyone have a part number for the u-joints?
Thanks in advance

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

There are too many options to just give out a part number (good, better, best), you will have to decide which route to go based on your budget

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...0l+v6,1119631,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392

 

[massacre]

Ok, let me ask this then-
Which ones am I ordering that will fit the 4x4 front axles? When it says “front” does that mean for the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front diff? Or does “front” mean for the front axle shafts/half shafts?

Sorry my question should have been more clear.

Thanks for the info

 

[Roadrunner777]

You should be given the choice of front (front driveshaft), rear (rear driveshaft), or axle for the front axles.

You have quite a journey ahead of you. Be sure to read the threads on this... you will need a socket that is difficult to locate and purchase, among many other things. It took me more than a day for each side.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Looks like your going to have to take them apart and measure them first to make sure you get the correct ones.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

371 The retainer clips are inside the ears for the stub shafts whereas the retainers on the drive shafts are on the outside

 

[massacre]

Are there 2 u joints per axle? So I would need 4 to complete the job?
I know the truck will be down for a couple days, still waiting on parts for my Mustang once that is back together I can bring the Explorer in for an extended stay.
I’m reading the threads now lots of great info, thanks.
Going to order the 12pt socket.

Do the drivers axle just slide out of the housing, or do I have to remove the carrier to remove the axle shaft? Pass side looks like there is a slip yoke so not as concerned with that side, if it is a regular style slip yoke it should slide out, right?

 

[massacre]

371 The retainer clips are inside the ears for the stub shafts whereas the retainers on the drive shafts are on the outside

Thanks this helps a lot. I have done a ton of PTO shafts which look to be around the same size/type. As long as pics on a website are accurate this will make getting the right parts easier

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I have 371 and 297 in my parts box and they look pretty much identical.

The drivers side just slides out since the pumpkin is attached to the same beam.

The passenger side has 2 joints and you have to remove the pumpkin to get to the c clip to pull the inner section out so you can replace the inner joint.

Search for c clip eliminator so you wont have to pull the pumpkin again

 

[massacre]

Wow I was not really planning on dropping the pumpkin, maybe I’ll just do the 2 outside ones for now?

Thank you so much for all the help guys I really appreciate it

 

[massacre]

I’m seeing 1.188” and 1.063” cap diameters available, does anyone know offhand which ones will fit my ‘94 with Dana 35?

Thanks

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I just remembered I have a list of the part numbers;

1991-1994 Ford Explorer 8.8” drum and D-35 TTB


Wheel bearings- Timken set37 - $10 requires 2 per side

Bearing seal – Timken 4250 - $3.40 requires 1 per side

D 35 Axel shaft U joints (3) - #297 - $14 - $19 requires 2 for right side, 1 for left side =3 total

Front Drive shaft U joint – #153 - $12- $19 requires 1

Rear driveshaft U joint - #153 - $12- $19 requires 2

Front diff right side axel seal – 470672 - $9 requires 1

Front diff left side axel seal – Timken 710043 $10.30 requires 1

Spindle bearing/seal kit – Timken SBK4 (bearing and seal) $19 – B2110 (bearing only) $7 -722108 (seal only) $4.50 requires 1 per front wheel = 2 total

 

[massacre]

Thanks Albino much obliged.
The #297 number I am searching for now

 

[Anime]

The old part number is 297, they made them stronger in newer axles and the "new" part number for the Dana 35 front axles application is 5-760x.

5-760X - The New Spicer U-joint - 4Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

You can get them online in several places, including amazon.

I definitely suggest the Dana/Spicer parts over the rest of the aftermarket stuff out there.

 

[massacre]

Perfect thanks! I prefer Spicer as well. 5-760x I am familiar with
I’ll order up 2, that will get me back on the road. Technically I only need ball joints but might as well do these while I’m there.

 

[massacre]

Here’s a stretch- I have a 1/4” drive deep 12 point 1/4” socket already, for installing billet connecting rods in small engines. 6mm = .236” I wonder if it would work?
I’ll give it a shot

 

[410Fortune]

"The passenger side has 2 joints and you have to remove the pumpkin to get to the c clip to pull the inner section out so you can replace the inner joint."

The inner U joint can be replaced in the truck without dropping the differential. Its a PITA but it can be done with a small ball joint press

 

[massacre]

I was wondering about that. I have an OTC press it is reg sized, not really small. I’ll take a look once I get in there, maybe I can swing it, maybe not.
If it was like the rear and just had to drop the cover I would do it happily, but pulling out the carrier sounds like a huge pita with even more potential money, parts and time spent. I mean at that point I should do RA bushings and at that point might as well just do everything.
I’ll inspect the inners and if they need replacement, well that’s what I’ll do.
Figure it can’t hurt to do the outers with the spindles/knuckles off since I’m right there.

I might end up pulling the carrier but i’m Basically hoping I don’t have to lol

Thanks for the tip

 

[410Fortune]

yes at that point just drop both beams out of the truck, do all your ball joints, U joints, service the diff, wheel bearings, hubs. Change radius arm bushings and spacers, change pivot bushings
Its actually pretty dang easy to drop both beams and do this work when compared to trying to do it all in the truck........something to consider

You can also clearance the drivers beam to make it so you can remove the third bolt (vertical retainer bolt) from the differential in the truck, so removing the diff is not terrible in the future

I love my TTB front ends!
Can have both beams out in about 30-45 minutes

Loosen lug nuts
support truck behind radius arms or from bumper to let suspension hang
remove front tires
remove both tie rod ends
remove both brake calipers
remove lower shock mounts
remove coil spring retainer nuts
remove radius arm nuts/ washers/ rear bushings
remove axle pivot bolts
pull beams forward and out of radius arm brackets = on the floor and ready to be stripped or SAS!!! LOL

 

[massacre]

Well my Mustang parts arrived yesterday and I was able to get that back together,
So I pulled the ex in the garage for balljoints/u joints. Parts are not here yet but I figure I can get a jump on removing stuff.