U Joints?

[massacre]

I posted part numbers for U joints earlier in your thread

Yes Sir, thanks again!
You posted # 153 for the front driveshaft u joints. I tried to search but came up empty. Which company’s part # is that? Thanks for the numbers on the diff seals as well.

I see Moog # 369, 371, 280 etc. all listed as fitting my truck, seems the difference is whether they are greased, and how. I like spicer u joints better I can do a search for that.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5153X-5-153X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B000CKN762

 

[massacre]

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5153X-5-153X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B000CKN762

Awesome thank you!

 

[massacre]

This morning was able to drain and remove the pumpkin

Was able to get all 3 u joints pressed out
U-joint graveyard:

I tweaked my back so going to try and rebuild spindles no more heavy stuff today lol
Haven’t even started scrapIn the gunk off yet.

 

[massacre]

Was able to scrape off some red goo from diff and remove both axle seals.
Disassembled both spindles, and pressed in 2 u-joints. I would have pressed in more but I only have 2 here so did both of the outside ones.

I noticed some discoloration on the bearing surface of my spindles.
Is this something I need to be worried about? Pic below

I haven’t tried to polish it with emery cloth or anything yet, I always thought that it’s bad news when you get blueing of the metal like that. Thought that meant it got hot and could be weakened? Could be wrong but don’t really want to put bad parts back on.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[massacre]

Going to try and replace the broken shock mount studs on the RAs by drilling out the old studs and welding in new ones. If successful I will return the Dorman RAs I ordered.
Would rather keep the stock RAs, Dorman stuff can be hit or miss I have found.

Can’t do jack today, resting my back

 

[410Fortune]

color on spindles 100% normal, I have seen way worse. Emery cloth will have it smooth again.
You can weld on new shock mounts or run a big ass bolt with short spacer right through the holes, welding is the best option but a bolt will hold the shock also

NICE WORK!! You are getting there!

 

[massacre]

color on spindles 100% normal, I have seen way worse. Emery cloth will have it smooth again.
You can weld on new shock mounts or run a big ass bolt with short spacer right through the holes, welding is the best option but a bolt will hold the shock also

NICE WORK!! You are getting there!

Thanks!
I am so glad to hear the color is normal and I don’t have to replace the spindles, they are expensive! There’s no grooves or anything hopefully it cleans up ok.

How doable is it to use C press to R/R pivot bushings?
Or am I better off bringing it to a shop with a press? I had a press but someone sold it without telling me and not too happy about that lol

 

[410Fortune]

A pneumatic air hammer/chisel will make short work of the pivot bushings..... like 30 seconds per side

 

[massacre]

What about pressing them in?

Also on the shock mount, I was thinking of using the Help kit which is threaded on both sides. If I bolt it through the arm and weld the nut to the inside of the arm, then maybe when removing next time instead of snapping the threaded end off the shock end, maybe it would unscrew from the inboard end?
Not sure if i’m explaining it right but creating 2 threaded ends to avoid snapping it off again in the future? Not sure if it would work itself loose or not, could always loctite it I suppose

Thanks

 

[massacre]

More u joints came today, installed the final u joint for the front axles, and the front u joint for the front driveshaft. My back is still sore but if I go slow and take it easy I can still get stuff done. Also drilled out drivers broken shock mount on the RA, but ran out of battery so had to put the other side off til tomorrow.
More parts came today-ABS sensors, lower coil spring mounts, new caliper slide pins, and radius arm bushings and heat shields. And the split collar for the c clip eliminator setup. The spring is backordered and won’t be here for a bit.
Haven’t rebuilt the spindles yet, will prob do that tomorrow as well. Once diff seals and that spring get here I should be in business

 

[410Fortune]

Lock washers or nylock nuts
I had this issue on my Skyjacker radius arms. Now they are through bolts like you describe:
Bolt, washer then through the arm from the inside. Then another nut, washer, the shock bushing, then washer, then finally nylock nut.... mine come loose once in a while and I have to tighten them up. I plan to add a double sheer to the radius arm so they do not come loose anymore, they are starting to make the holes int eh radius arm oval shaped.

I love the HELP section I almost always find something that will allow me to play Mcgyver one more time

 

[massacre]

Thanks!
Well I don’t want to egg out the holes so I’ll prob just weld it right to the arm.

 

[RangerX]

Not sure if you're still wanting any info on the c clip eliminator, but here's a good thread on it: C-clip Eliminator, Made Easy

 

[massacre]

Not sure if you're still wanting any info on the c clip eliminator, but here's a good thread on it: C-clip Eliminator, Made Easy

Thanks!
That is the thread that got me interested in doing the mod. Great info there

 

[massacre]

So today was busy work, cleaning up the knuckles and spindles. Used a variety of wire wheels and flap disc and they are as clean as they are going to get. I had to file quite a bit since I used a chisel so the flange was not level at the outside edges. Installed spindle bearings and seals, as well as the flat plate and axle gasket that comes in the timken kit.

I do have questions about the seals in the timken kit.
I installed the bearing seal with the flat side facing away from the spindle bearing. I installed the bigger gasket onto the axle plate with the flat side facing the plate, curved side facing outboard. Is this correct? Was hard to find a good pic of these two installed, thanks!

Cleaned up the axle housing mounting surface and where it mounts on the beam.

Also received my shock mount studs today, this is what they look like bolted up, i’ll Weld them up tomorrow.

Pivot bushings and spring for the c clip eliminator came today as well as the diff seals.
So that should be good for parts to get this back together just waiting on shocks.

I ordered billsteins from shock warehouse and they are back ordered.
Some “warehouse” lmao

Was good to make some progress

 

[massacre]

Pivot bushings and diff seals are in. Going to goop up the diff now and mount it in the beam. Stock used the red stuff. It lasted for 24yrs so I think I will use that as I have some on hand. I have all the tubes I bought when I did my heads. Would like to get both beams bolted into the truck today maybe RAs.

 

[410Fortune]

YES!!!!

so far so great!

 

[massacre]

YES!!!!

so far so great!

Thanks man! Really appreciate all the help from this forum too would still be stuck at the spindles otherwise.

Pivot bushings

Diff seals

Welded on shock mounts. I decided to weld them up on the outside and just bolt them up on inside. Should be fine I think.

And the beams are back in the truck!

Next up- radius arms and new bushings and heat shields

 

[massacre]

Was able to get both RAs, coil springs, knuckles, and drivers side spindle on. Stuck drivers ABS sensor and block onto knuckle but need to get new bolts for those.

Tried to get echo spring over shaft, going to have to wait until I have more patience.
I am literally working on the floor of my garage, no bench no vise. I’m beat and my knees are killing me from being on them all damn day. Going to call it a day hit the shower then grab some chow haven’t eaten all day.

Springs were kind of a ***** to put on, they are Moogs

And- went to install u joint on front drive shaft, u joint on backwards no access to grease fitting. Yanked it off again and flipped it