MistahYebba
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- June 29, 2015
- Messages
- 275
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Clearwater, Florida
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2005 Ford Explorer XLT
I don't know what I'd do without Explorerforum.com... you all are so great. I want to give the community an update on the biggest problem I've had recently with my 92 Explorer Sport I bought a month ago. I want to make this as easy to read as possible, so try to bare with me. Thank you beforehand to anyone that sticks through and reads it to help <3
Below will be dates in order of occurrence:
Purchase date -through- Monday, July 13th:
All this time, the car ran pretty well. It stalled every once in a while when stopped for an exceeding period of time (like 5 minutes... and this was pretty RARE! It would also stall occasionally in a fast food drive-thru or something... Maybe twice a week MAX.
Monday, July 13th:
I drove it to work, worked just like every other day..
Upon leaving work, the car stalled almost right after switching into gear.. turned it back on and crawled home, stalling almost every time I hit the brakes..
"WTF?!" I'm thinking to myself..
I get out at a Walmart parking lot and pop the hood.. right away, I notice a thin black line snapped... then I notice a few near it.. "ugh".. these lines were connected to this disc-stem object with 3 connectors for these lines.. 1 led down to a cluster of wires/lines on the far passenger corner, 1 led somewhere else, and the last one ran straight to the top driver's side of the intake manifold.. needless to say, the one coming from the intake manifold was vacuuming in air and causing me to stall.
How in the world all 3 of them snapped so cleanly while I was in work?? I HAVE NO FREAKING IDEA AND PROBABLY NEVER WILL.
As a fix, I snipped em all a bit shorter and reconnected them at that 3-way line connected right above the A/C block.. Car ran fine after that.
Tuesday, the next day:
Car was going fine again.. no real noticeable problems.. After driving it all day, while pulling up into the driveway I decided I wanted to test the heat. I wanted to test it simply to check my heater core's functionality because I'm going to do a coolant flush soon (totally unrelated)...
Well, upon hitting the AC knob to deactivate the AC, the car stalled. GREAT.
I went to bed. I was tired.
Wednesday, the day after:
Obviously the car didn't fix itself over night.. I woke up the next day and tried to drive away.
Nope. Just switching into gear made me stall. I tried again and it worked the second time.. off I went to drive and "boop" stall again. If it didn't stall, the idle was terribly rough.. and I could recreate the issue of stalling by simply turning the AC "off"..
WHY WAS TURNING THE AC OFF MAKING ME STALL???
After much reading, I collected the information that cleaning the IAC Valve may fix this problem..
I sucked it up with the rough idle and occasional stalling and got through the day.
Thursday, the dreaded cleaning day:
I thoroughly cleaned the IAC Valve and Throttle Body.. made sure those vacuum lines that I snipped a bit shorter on the past Monday were still holding up fine, etc...
Doing all this cleaning really did nothing for me... I did it all outside of my local auto parts store and it was all for naught.. I drove it home in disappoint still having the same issue.
Friday, the bane of my existence:
The next morning upon turning it on, it stalled almost immediately.. tried again; stalled right away again.
Over and over it kept stalling without fail about 1 second after starting... "OH CMON!"
Nothing I was doing was making it work..
I went as far as to completely disconnected the throttle body again just to check..
In fact, while checking I realized I made a rookie mistake of not plugging back in the line that connects to the bottom of the throttle body.. (or the top in this picture)
I made it home all the way the night before with that line unplugged? Okay, whatever.. Did it cause permanent damage??
Well, I reconnected it thinking that it must have been the problem!! Nope.
Nothing was working. Stall after stall.. the truck was a lost cause. I couldn't keep it on. Holding down the accelerator pedal just made it REV HIGHthen nearly stall then REV HIGH then nearly stall then REV HIGH then nearly stall.. until I let off, then it would surely stall.
Then I finally got the bright idea to just disconnect the ELECTRONICS of the IAC valve.. nothing more and nothing less... Simply unplug the IAC valve electrical wire and start it up..
"WOW!" it worked... the idle was TERRIBLE, but it was on.. and running.. and I could get to the store if I needed to. Barely..
Saturday, yesterday!:
So I thought it must be the IAC valve being bad... and SOMEHOW ( I have no freaking clue how....), it being plugged in was making it stall..... ?????
So I just left it unplugged.
I went to the junkyard today and picked up the 2 best looking IAC valves to test them both...
Guess what; same results.
If I plugged in the electronics on either of them it stalls. With the electronics unplugged, it runs fine... That means the IAC valve with electronics unplugged is just acting as a hole plug... right?
But why in the world would it stall with it plugged in? The only thing changing is now the parts inside the IAC valve actually move? How could that make it stall?..
Well that brings me to my next portion...
I have just decided to leave the IAC Valve electronics unplugged for now since it is clearly another issue.
If I'm just at a complete stop at a red light.. my engine is like "REV HIGH, nearly stall, REV HIGH, nearly stall" like I explained earlier..
However, I noticed if I do things like turn off my headlights or windshield wipers or anything that takes up power, it'll react differently and idle a bit better...
The thing I can't figure out is, why when I turn "OFF" the AC does it almost stall, but if I turn it back "ON" fast enough I can save it from stalling because it starts idling smoothly again?
What the heck is my problem I just don't get it..
How could plugging in an electronic sensor cause it to stall right away, but leaving it all bolted in and stuff but simple unplugging the wires allows it to run?
MAKES ZERO SENSE TO ME.
Someone please let me know what I can do..
THE GREAT WOLFIE_85; you are an amazing helper... I appreciate everything you do for these forums.
Below will be dates in order of occurrence:
Purchase date -through- Monday, July 13th:
All this time, the car ran pretty well. It stalled every once in a while when stopped for an exceeding period of time (like 5 minutes... and this was pretty RARE! It would also stall occasionally in a fast food drive-thru or something... Maybe twice a week MAX.
Monday, July 13th:
I drove it to work, worked just like every other day..
Upon leaving work, the car stalled almost right after switching into gear.. turned it back on and crawled home, stalling almost every time I hit the brakes..
"WTF?!" I'm thinking to myself..
I get out at a Walmart parking lot and pop the hood.. right away, I notice a thin black line snapped... then I notice a few near it.. "ugh".. these lines were connected to this disc-stem object with 3 connectors for these lines.. 1 led down to a cluster of wires/lines on the far passenger corner, 1 led somewhere else, and the last one ran straight to the top driver's side of the intake manifold.. needless to say, the one coming from the intake manifold was vacuuming in air and causing me to stall.
How in the world all 3 of them snapped so cleanly while I was in work?? I HAVE NO FREAKING IDEA AND PROBABLY NEVER WILL.
As a fix, I snipped em all a bit shorter and reconnected them at that 3-way line connected right above the A/C block.. Car ran fine after that.
Tuesday, the next day:
Car was going fine again.. no real noticeable problems.. After driving it all day, while pulling up into the driveway I decided I wanted to test the heat. I wanted to test it simply to check my heater core's functionality because I'm going to do a coolant flush soon (totally unrelated)...
Well, upon hitting the AC knob to deactivate the AC, the car stalled. GREAT.
I went to bed. I was tired.
Wednesday, the day after:
Obviously the car didn't fix itself over night.. I woke up the next day and tried to drive away.
Nope. Just switching into gear made me stall. I tried again and it worked the second time.. off I went to drive and "boop" stall again. If it didn't stall, the idle was terribly rough.. and I could recreate the issue of stalling by simply turning the AC "off"..
WHY WAS TURNING THE AC OFF MAKING ME STALL???
After much reading, I collected the information that cleaning the IAC Valve may fix this problem..
I sucked it up with the rough idle and occasional stalling and got through the day.
Thursday, the dreaded cleaning day:
I thoroughly cleaned the IAC Valve and Throttle Body.. made sure those vacuum lines that I snipped a bit shorter on the past Monday were still holding up fine, etc...
Doing all this cleaning really did nothing for me... I did it all outside of my local auto parts store and it was all for naught.. I drove it home in disappoint still having the same issue.
Friday, the bane of my existence:
The next morning upon turning it on, it stalled almost immediately.. tried again; stalled right away again.
Over and over it kept stalling without fail about 1 second after starting... "OH CMON!"
Nothing I was doing was making it work..
I went as far as to completely disconnected the throttle body again just to check..
In fact, while checking I realized I made a rookie mistake of not plugging back in the line that connects to the bottom of the throttle body.. (or the top in this picture)
I made it home all the way the night before with that line unplugged? Okay, whatever.. Did it cause permanent damage??
Well, I reconnected it thinking that it must have been the problem!! Nope.
Nothing was working. Stall after stall.. the truck was a lost cause. I couldn't keep it on. Holding down the accelerator pedal just made it REV HIGHthen nearly stall then REV HIGH then nearly stall then REV HIGH then nearly stall.. until I let off, then it would surely stall.
Then I finally got the bright idea to just disconnect the ELECTRONICS of the IAC valve.. nothing more and nothing less... Simply unplug the IAC valve electrical wire and start it up..
"WOW!" it worked... the idle was TERRIBLE, but it was on.. and running.. and I could get to the store if I needed to. Barely..
Saturday, yesterday!:
So I thought it must be the IAC valve being bad... and SOMEHOW ( I have no freaking clue how....), it being plugged in was making it stall..... ?????
So I just left it unplugged.
I went to the junkyard today and picked up the 2 best looking IAC valves to test them both...
Guess what; same results.
If I plugged in the electronics on either of them it stalls. With the electronics unplugged, it runs fine... That means the IAC valve with electronics unplugged is just acting as a hole plug... right?
But why in the world would it stall with it plugged in? The only thing changing is now the parts inside the IAC valve actually move? How could that make it stall?..
Well that brings me to my next portion...
I have just decided to leave the IAC Valve electronics unplugged for now since it is clearly another issue.
If I'm just at a complete stop at a red light.. my engine is like "REV HIGH, nearly stall, REV HIGH, nearly stall" like I explained earlier..
However, I noticed if I do things like turn off my headlights or windshield wipers or anything that takes up power, it'll react differently and idle a bit better...
The thing I can't figure out is, why when I turn "OFF" the AC does it almost stall, but if I turn it back "ON" fast enough I can save it from stalling because it starts idling smoothly again?
What the heck is my problem I just don't get it..
How could plugging in an electronic sensor cause it to stall right away, but leaving it all bolted in and stuff but simple unplugging the wires allows it to run?
MAKES ZERO SENSE TO ME.
Someone please let me know what I can do..
THE GREAT WOLFIE_85; you are an amazing helper... I appreciate everything you do for these forums.