Understanding front door stays. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Understanding front door stays.

Boomyal

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 28, 2013
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412
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City, State
Vancouver, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer Ltd
It appears that the detent hardware to keep the front doors open are on the bottom hinge. There is a closed top tube that rises above the hinge that must contain the friction apparatus.

My driver's door makes a pretty good pop/snap sound when opening and closing it. It acts like it wants some lube but I cannot see where to apply it.

Anyone have a clue?
 



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Curious also, mine makes the same clank/pop sound, while opening.
 






Curious also, mine makes the same clank/pop sound, while opening.

In other vehicles the spring loaded rollers are exposed and it is easy to see where to apply the grease. I am assuming that that is what is needed here but it is not readily apparent.

If lubrication is what is called for to remedy this 'popping', I'd like to get it done before something wears.
 






I have a 2008 XLT and my driver door pops also upon opening. I'm told it's the 'check' mechanism in the cylinder attached above the hinge pin, the part of the hinge that keeps the door open on a grade, etc. The only way to fix is a new hinge for $100+! I tried to drill into the top of the cylinder and fill with grease but that was fruitless. There are so many people complaining about this problem, there must be a solution somewhere. I'd hate to purchase a new hinge and find out it doesn't solve the problem! In addition, the new hinge has to be painted to match the vehicle color. I think the purchase of that hinge from Ford is non-returnable. Does anyone have a solution? I can't even find too many people who know about the design of that hinge and the 'check' cylinder mechanism. Dave
 






.....I can't even find too many people who know about the design of that hinge and the 'check' cylinder mechanism. Dave....

Does that mean that you have found 'some' people who know about the design?

Please tell! Assuming that you are correct, in that the detent mechanism is in that cylinder, your attempt to grease it would have seemed to be a prudent thing to do. However, without knowing the exact nature of the mechanics, I guess we will never know.
 






This happens when I open the rear passenger door on mine. Rarely open the rear passenger door, so I never cared to investigate it.
 






Mine too!

I also drilled a hole in the top of the can. lots of lube squirted in helped a bit, but the pop is still there.
 






Explorer door hinge noise

I just went out and drilled and tapped the can for a grease zerk. Pumping some grease in helped a lot. It still has a small click but much less so and not nearly as annoying. If anyone finds an affordable replacement for these please let us know
 






This happens when I open the rear passenger door on mine. Rarely open the rear passenger door, so I never cared to investigate it.

I haven't looked closely at the rear door stays. I did casually glance at the lower hinge from the open front door and did not see a cylindrical device that is like the front lower hinge. I'll have to look closer even though my rear doors do not have the hitch in them. Maybe there is an obvious place to lubricate them to ward off any future issues.
 






When I get home, I'll probably just douse the hinges with white lithium grease.
 






When I get home, I'll probably just douse the hinges with white lithium grease.

That'll cover the pivot pins but not any door stay mechanisms. In fact, you would probably get more lubricant to the pivot pins using something like tri-flow, a combination penetrating/lubricating oil.
 






I was successful greasing the stays.
I drilled a small hole about half way up the cylinder and another hole near the top to vent any old grease/air while filling the lower hole with a pinpoint grease gun. After filling with grease I plugged the holes with a small screw and there has been no noise since I did it four months ago.
 






My drivers door is silent now without any grease or repair, guess the part wore down enough to not make the noise anymore.
 






I was successful greasing the stays.
I drilled a small hole about half way up the cylinder and another hole near the top to vent any old grease/air while filling the lower hole with a pinpoint grease gun. After filling with grease I plugged the holes with a small screw and there has been no noise since I did it four months ago.

Do you have a link for a "pinpoint" grease gun? Also, what size holes did you drill? Was it necessary to size the lower hole so that you grease gun tip sealed to the hole? In other words, sized to force the grease into the hole with no way for it to back out of the lower hole. Also, what grease did you use? This sounds like a great idea.
 












Here's a link that shows what I used, I have the gun in the middle, any type of pinpoint fitting will work. The hole I drilled was about 1/16 or maybe the next size up and I used wheel bearing grease.

http://www.dualco-inc.com/products.push.html

I take it then that you forced the tip of your gun to the lower hole so that it sealed? Did you then pump in the grease til it started to show at your hole in the top of the cap?

Is there any reason that you can see that you couldn't drill your lower hole, on the side of the cap, further down than 1/2 way?

It would sure be nice to be able to see that mechanism exposed.
 






Sorry,I looked at it again to see that the lower hole is more like a 1/4 to 1/3 the way up from the bottom.
When I first tried this I drilled only the upper hole and I couldn't get much grease in because of pressure building up inside the door stay. I drilled another hole further down and put the grease in the lower hole. It then took more grease, eventually forcing old grease out the top hole.
 






Sorry,I looked at it again to see that the lower hole is more like a 1/4 to 1/3 the way up from the bottom.
When I first tried this I drilled only the upper hole and I couldn't get much grease in because of pressure building up inside the door stay. I drilled another hole further down and put the grease in the lower hole. It then took more grease, eventually forcing old grease out the top hole.

I'll be giving this a go. I just need to pick up a needle nose mini push gun OR a needle tip for a standard grease gun. I have a little syringe size one in my chainsaw kit but it has no volume. That cap will probably hold 4 times the grease that is in that little syringe.

It makes sense that the old grease dries up and shrinks away from the contact parts.

Did you drill the top hole on the top of the cap or at the top of the cap sidewall?
 






Both holes were drilled on the side
 



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yes yes so want to fix this on mine. Door creeks pops or other sounds drive me nuts.
i might try drilling a hole also and just start putting all sorts of stuff in it until it stops lol
 






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