Upgrading 3rd gen MACH system - questions

[Mathematics]

First - have been lurking around here forever, tons of reading & useful info I've put to use on my mountaineer, so thanks for the resource here.

I'm a newb to car audio but have been upgrading the factory audio system, so far have completely sound deadened the doors & floor (fatmat, CCF, MLV), installed Infinity 8602's in all 4 doors, replaced the factory 8" sub with the shallow mount Pioneer 8", and also dynomatted the factory sub enclosure to try to stiffen it up a bit (thanks to JoeDirt & jrford's threads here for guidance on messing with the factory sub/enclosure).

Next time I'm home I'll also be installing a Pioneer 2400BT headunit and Kenwood XR-5S 5-channel amp to power the door speakers & sub.

The xr-5s puts out 350w RMS for the sub channel, so upgrading the sub to a 10" is now also on my list. I am set on retaining the factory look, so the sub/enclosure needs to fit behind the trim still. I'm looking at either another shallow mount sub and modding the factory sub enclosure to fit, or building a new sub box all together to try to make use of the space the factory amp takes up.

Any suggestions for a shallow 10" sub that can make use of all 350w? I was happy with the Pioneer 8" shallow mount, so looking at the 10" big brother...Is there a higher quality shallow mount sub someplace? Also, if I went the path of building a custom box with 3/4" MDF, could I fit a sub with a 5" mounting depth (Looking at Polk mm1040)? I've searched and found enclosure plans for 2nd gen but nothing for 3rd gen on here.

The other area I'm unsure of is installing a component system in the front 2 doors. Looking at Polk MM6501 6.5" set but not sure where to put the tweeters where they'll both sound good but still be fairly discreet...would mounting the tweeters in the door near the 6.5" be too low? I want to get the most out of the component system but don't want the tweeters to visually stick out.

Thanks for any help or suggestions. I work remotely so trying to get things lined out before I get home.

 

[Mathematics]

And to add some info for anyone searching

The Infinity Ref-6802 speakers - awesome & easy upgrade. First thing I did, and the sound difference between these and the "premium audiophile" stock speakers is night & day, even off the stock head unit. Crutchfield has them for buy one get one half off...hard to pass up. Great highs mids & bass, had good bass in the mounty even for the few days I had the sub out. Not resonating bass that shakes up your internals, but you'll be amazed at the notes they hit.

 

[Crutchfield Vlad]

It really depends on what kind of music you like and how you like to listen to it. In my opinion the Infinity's have more of a crisp sound where the Polk's are clean but have more mid range. The MM1040 would be a great match for that amp. Good punch with accurate bass.
The component tweeters are adjustable so you can pivot the direction of it. So you can mount it anywhere even next to the woofer. If you do mount it close and up high, the crossover will have adjustments to turn down the tweeter.

 

[jrford]

i did a sub upgraded, you may have read this thread
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246610
I like the pioneer, 10" shallow mount. In the thread there is a pic of the stock/pioneer.
You will need a spacer to fit 5", pioneer was only 3.5"?. Fit nicely sounds great but only 200RMS.

 

[Mathematics]

i did a sub upgraded, you may have read this thread
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=246610
I like the pioneer, 10" shallow mount. In the thread there is a pic of the stock/pioneer.
You will need a spacer to fit 5", pioneer was only 3.5"?. Fit nicely sounds great but only 200RMS.

I did read your thread, that was actually what started me down the path of using the stock enclosure for the pioneer 8"...so thanks for that!

I pulled the trigger on the 300RMS pioneer (TS-SW2501S4), but may have another use for that...if I can get 5" to work in the enclosure with a spacer (and without touching the trim) that is what I'll probably do. Will have to get into the enclosure and measure once I'm home I guess.

Any ideas on discreet locatons for the tweeters?

Thanks for the replies

 

[Mathematics]

Just to follow up, ended up with Focal 165 VB's, tweeters are just above the handles...not ideal situation but we were in a rush to finish getting the system in before I went back to work. Will probably try to move them to the A pillars and fiberglass them in next time I am off work.

I used the Pioneer 10" in the stock sub enclosure, cut half of the face of the enclosure off though (leaving the mounting points) and fiberglassed it out to make it flush with the sub mount the entire length of the enclosure. Once I took the stock amp off it started bugging me not to make use of that extra space. I also put a layer of resin around the entire enclosure to stiffen it up a bit.

Everything sounds great, good full sound without the bass over-powering everything else. Really like the 2400BT head unit. Only changes I might make would be would be moving the tweeters to the pillars, and replacing the modded stock enclosure with a full custom fiberglass enclosure to make more room for a deeper sub.

 

[Crutchfield Vlad]

Awesome, I'm glad everything worked out. Focal speakers are one of my favorite speakers. Let's see some pics.

 

[jrford]

hey for the tweeters, i've always thought of putting them under the defroster vent near the ends, drill a small hole same size as the tweets, have them pointing up, the sound should bounce of the windshield. Looked easy and some other cars/trucks do it too.

 

[Crutchfield Vlad]

hey for the tweeters, i've always thought of putting them under the defroster vent near the ends, drill a small hole same size as the tweets, have them pointing up, the sound should bounce of the windshield. Looked easy and some other cars/trucks do it too.

Yeah that's an easy way to put the tweeters in but the sound is not that great. With the sound bouncing off the windshield and also strait from the tweeter, you will get different sounds at different times going to your ears. you will notice a little bit of distortion and overly bright highs. Ideally you want them to be directed right to your ears like on a sail panel or door. Don't get me wrong they will all sound good depending on the quality of speakers/tweeter and adjustment made.