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upgrading my interior

daexploder

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Joined
June 26, 2013
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City, State
Cleveland
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Explorer 4x4
I'm trying upgrade the interior of my explorer by hopefully just doing a swap from a mountaineer. I have a 99 explorer and I want to just swap out my seats and door panels from one to the other, but I've noticed that all of the mountaineers have power seats but my explorer does not can i mount those mountaineer seats onto my non power tracks and mounts?
 



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I'm trying upgrade the interior of my explorer by hopefully just doing a swap from a mountaineer. I have a 99 explorer and I want to just swap out my seats and door panels from one to the other, but I've noticed that all of the mountaineers have power seats but my explorer does not can i mount those mountaineer seats onto my non power tracks and mounts?

If you want power seats, I believe all the power seats need is a power and ground connection. probably a fused 10 or 12 gauge power wire, with a 10 or 12 gauge ground should do the trick. Doing this might even be easier then swapping out the tracks on the seats.
 






Really? If its as simple as that I may have to give that a yet instead of switching the tracks, I'll have to fill you in once I get that together. Thanks
 






If you want power seats, I believe all the power seats need is a power and ground connection. probably a fused 10 or 12 gauge power wire, with a 10 or 12 gauge ground should do the trick. Doing this might even be easier then swapping out the tracks on the seats.

Since I've never actually done this, I probably should just STFU here, but I can't resist.

I think there's more to it than that. I remember a friend who bought a new car and wanted the power seat. The dealer promised it to him (they were just gonna order the parts), but then they backed out because it was really difficult to add the proper harness (evidently, if you need a power seat, you need a whole new harness to go with it).

I'd guess it's harder than just running power.
 






Really? If its as simple as that I may have to give that a yet instead of switching the tracks, I'll have to fill you in once I get that together. Thanks

pretty much that easy. I put a set of Explorer Limited power seats in by '54 F100 and it only required a positive and ground to make them work (6-way power w/power lumbar). the wiring for the seats may even be there (under the carpet) it pokes through a small slit on the side of the hump. try feeling around for it.
 






I can say that the 2nd gen (mountaineer) seats we put into our 1st gen just had 2 wires going to it.. Just power/Ground and that was it.

We had more issues trying to use the Mountaineer seat belt receiving part since the buckle style between the 1st gen and the Mountaineer belt was different.

If you want to go nuts.. contact BanditCustoms (vendor here).. They put memory seats into a vehicle without it.. :)

~Mark
 






The power seat track bolts in directly in place of a manual seat. All you need is a 12 volt power and ground connection. I swapped a 96 power seat into my 2000 model with manual seats and it worked fine.
 






While looking to find a set of good used seats to replace the basic cloth ones that were worn out I discovered there are not many good used ones around. They all tend to wear the same so I started looking at leather power ones.
Pick-n-pull had a half price deal on that weekend and I got a set the correct color for only $24 ea. If you decide to do this take a 12V drill battery with you and a couple of two foot pieces of wire you can use to move the seats fore and aft if needed to access the rear mounting bolts. Remove the sill plastic to gain access to the wiring and cut the two wires from the main harness first.
Remove the four mounting bolts and they are out. Don't forget to also get the section of wiring with the plug on it.
I found in my 97 that there is a good power lead in the drivers side harness but not in the passenger side. There are some smaller wires hot in the passenger side but not enough to run the seat properly. I spliced in only on the drivers side and ran the wires under the carpet from there to both seats. Sorry it was some time ago and I don't remember the wire color. Also, I just used a self tapping screw into the floor for the ground wire on the pass. side. And yes I know I should have taken pictures but at the time I was in a hurry and didn't think of it.
 






While looking to find a set of good used seats to replace the basic cloth ones that were worn out I discovered there are not many good used ones around. They all tend to wear the same so I started looking at leather power ones.
Pick-n-pull had a half price deal on that weekend and I got a set the correct color for only $24 ea. If you decide to do this take a 12V drill battery with you and a couple of two foot pieces of wire you can use to move the seats fore and aft if needed to access the rear mounting bolts. Remove the sill plastic to gain access to the wiring and cut the two wires from the main harness first.
Remove the four mounting bolts and they are out. Don't forget to also get the section of wiring with the plug on it.
I found in my 97 that there is a good power lead in the drivers side harness but not in the passenger side. There are some smaller wires hot in the passenger side but not enough to run the seat properly. I spliced in only on the drivers side and ran the wires under the carpet from there to both seats. Sorry it was some time ago and I don't remember the wire color. Also, I just used a self tapping screw into the floor for the ground wire on the pass. side. And yes I know I should have taken pictures but at the time I was in a hurry and didn't think of it.

and don't forget the inner seat belt slider bolt. T50 bolt... maybe. also, bring some WD40 and a wire brush, as the seat bolts extend through the floor and tend to get crapped up with rust, grit and grime.
 






and don't forget the inner seat belt slider bolt. T50 bolt... maybe. also, bring some WD40 and a wire brush, as the seat bolts extend through the floor and tend to get crapped up with rust, grit and grime.

I find that that bolt is a huge PITA to get out, most of the times the torx bit strips out, because it is so rusted. I unbolt the 4 seat bolts, tilt the seat and then take out the 2 10mm bolts that hold the rail in. then take the plastic push-in stopper, and slide the seat out.
 






Forgot about that little SOB. LOL I didn't have the torx socket either and also removed the two small bolts. Back at the shop with proper tools I didn't have any trouble removing the Torx bolt from mine.
 












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