Upper Ball Joints Question and Quote

[239]

I took the X to the shop today and found out that my upper ball joints are done. They told me that the entire upper control arm has to be changed because it's one piece. I read online that some of the aftermarket control arms have removable ball joints but some don't. Is this true? I was given a price of $1045 for both upper arms, rear axle bearings, seals, and diff fluid(200k on the original bearings). Has anyone had experience with the one piece control arms before?

 

[MAS Tequila]

RockAuto has the Moog UCA's for $60 each.

MT

 

[JusTheUsual]

Someone is about to make several hundred dollars off from you. Ripoff

 

[swshawaii]

Ford Truck Upper Control Arm Replacement
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

"How To" threads for 1995-2001 Explorers - Stickys compiled
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386329

 

[239]

I decided to do the control arms myself. I'm just gonna have them do the rear bearings and seals as that's beyond me. Thanks for the links I'll look into them. My passenger side control arm is the two piece. Does moog offer a one piece replacement? Or all they all two?

 

[239]

Ford Truck Upper Control Arm Replacement
http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

"How To" threads for 1995-2001 Explorers - Stickys compiled
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386329

If I convert to the one piece control arm will that affect the way the truck gets aligned? Or will I be ok if I just re insert the camber bolts in the same direction? I'm gonna get it aligned the same day but I wanna make sure Ford can align the one piece design.

 

[bill06447]

For what its worth I'd rather do the seals and bearings. But either job is not difficult with the proper tools and some know-how

Bill

 

[bill06447]

Use one piece arm along with the camber bolt kit so you can get an alignment without any hassles.

Bill

 

[swshawaii]

Installing the driver side camber bolts are by far the most difficult part of UCA replacement. The hard line clearance makes the OEM bolts very difficult to remove. Some cut the bolts, others carefully pry on the lines for clearance. Since you have an existing two piece UCA on the passenger side, your other option is replacing with the Moog K8710T that has replaceable ball joints (K80012) providing the bushings are in good shape. Some still prefer the two piece design because of the front to rear caster adjustment. Your call. GL

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=126634

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191742

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1362451,parttype,10401

 

[239]

For what its worth I'd rather do the seals and bearings. But either job is not difficult with the proper tools and some know-how

Bill

Unfortunately I only have time to take care of the control arms at the moment. The rear bearings are already making grinding noises so I'd rather get them changed than wait a couple of weeks before I can go at them.

 

[239]

I'll probably go with the one piece as it seems a lot more effecient. Hopefully the alignment shop at Ford doesn't have problems with it. So I just remove the two piece arm and put the new one in, the same as the driver's side?

 

[intelisevil]

I went with the one piece for the passenger side. That way you replace those 15 year (200K mile) old rubber bushings while you're at it.

Good Luck,
Dan

 

[masospaghetti]

Upper control arms are easy conceptually, but as stated before, the driver's side bolts are very difficult to get out. Just be warned that you will be fighting with it.

The new bolts (assuming you get the camber bolt kit) are easier to get in because they come as separate pieces, not as a welded assembly.

Whatever you do don't get cheap suspension parts, unless you want to do the job again in three months.

 

[midwest2006]

I myself need to replace both uppers driver/passenger, so might aswell do both lower ball joints while im at it. I searched those and found than Moog suspension parts are way more reasonable and quailty made. Mine is a 2000 Explorer XLT with 134k. Ive spent thousands to replace old worn out oem equip. complete new ac componets lines,alternator,brake lines,filler neck,ps pump, complete tune up,wires fuel filter, Interstate battery, new B.F.Goodrich Lts AT tires, front brake pads, new shocks front/rear drive pully/tensioner/serpentine belt and still squels,( drives me nuts) new front end alignment when i bought new tires 1 year ago so cambers are new. both rear shackles as 1 gave way so replaced both. new headlight bulbs/rear tail light bulbs so ive spent a small fortune but love this truck, oh and new windsheid when a rock slapped it on highway here in wisconsin, used safelite, great job 3 weeks later another chip on passenger side below wiper, really pissed me off needless to say. Truck is Strong. noticed driver valve cover leak so ill do both once i replace upper/lower ball joints arms...