Upper Control Arms (for the seriously dropped)

[X24]

Yeah, different thread.

And just to clarify things... I have not seen James' penis. The weight suggested above is based on the findings of another thread on this board.

 

[Hartman]

I will probably be ordering my control arms within the next few days.

Also, do you guys know what the function of the upper balljoint is? Might be a stupid question, but I was thinking about it and I can't think if anything except maybe for steering.

 

[TarHeel085]

same thing as the lower one

 

[X24]

Isnt the function of the upper ball joint the same as the lower one, just for the upper control arm instead of the lower control arm. Since both joints turn and move up and down, they need ball joints. My guess anyway...

 

[Hartman]

James, are you going to install these as soon as you get them? I'm still leary about the whole thing. I need new upper balljoints, plus I have to get them pressed in somewhere, then I have to install the control arms, which I don't totally feel confident with yet. The DJM site says "use lower control arms to align properly", but others have told me on the Ranger board that you can use just the uppers and align it good.

Basically what I'm saying is, I'm too big of a wuss to order them right now and I want to make sure it'll work.

 

[james t]

it may take me up to a week after i get them to get them on, but i promise you no longer. this wont be like my headers, which are still laying on a shelf in the garage. i first have to get the bronco back together, because i parked it in the middle of the garage. either way, they will be on very soon after i get them, so if you would like, just wait on me to give you the go-ahead.

and also, while i think adding the lower arms on the ranger would help, i dont see how it would be necessary. DJM is the only company that even has uppers, everyone's elses kit (including Bellthech) has just lowers. so i dont see needing both. but, like many other times, i may be wrong.

 

[Hartman]

Well we couldn't use the lower control arms, because they are set up to accept coil springs. SCREW IT, I'm ordering...

 

[james t]

LOL, go for it! maybe we'll have two sets of upper control arms for sale on a streeter ranger forum.

 

[Hartman]

yeah LOL.

 

[Yomie]

lol

 

[PUR PONY]

correct- you cant use the lowers becuase there is no place for the torsion bars. that is why i wanted to go coil over. I am going to do this sometime but i just dont have the time right now. I got my new truck that i need to finish and i also need to get my mustang painted and together before spring(race season)

 

[james t]

i have a cousin that builds street rods. he had a complete Mustang II front kit, complete with coilovers, that he would have sold me for $600. the springs were even the rate i needed (it was on its way into a 50's F100). a week later, i decide to get it. i go to his house, and too late. he had a new project car, a 40 Ford. "sorry, but i need it to go in the car now."
thats what i get for waiting.

sorry, just rambling now...

 

[PUR PONY]

now how about this...... if you take a stock lower control arm and a djm ranger lower a-arm and graph them together...... cut and weld. That why we have the correct length and the torsion bar mounts... and we use the upper lowering a-arm just the way it is........

this way no bags or coil overs... just bolt on and go-

 

[Hartman]

Since the DJM lower control arms are tubular, and the stock control arms are not, it would be hard to mate them together. Because of that, I think there would be a strenght issue involved.

Right now my plan is to get the upper control arms and flip my torsion key.

 

[james t]

Originally posted by Hartman
Right now my plan is to get the upper control arms and flip my torsion key.

same here. i dont think there would be any point to using the lower ranger arms over the uppers, as the uppers should do the same thing. cutting and welding the lower arms would be alot of trouble, more trouble than making some mounts strong enough for coilovers, and the ride would still be just as bad as if you used the "bolt-on" (i hope) upper ranger arms.

im only gonna do that much work if it would yeild a stock-like ride. and i dont see that happening lowered 3"-4" with torsion bars...

 

[Hartman]

I was thinking about ride quality after the torsion key flip earlier today. Obviously, with that much of a drop, the ride is going to get stiffer. I have B rated torsion bars, which is the stiffest made, so if I went with a softer torsion bar, do you think that would improve the ride?

 

[james t]

actually, Hartman, you dont want softer bars. without getting into 5 pages of torsion bar suspension theory, basically by changing the preload on the bars, you effectivly change the spring rate. in other words, by turning the bolts in, and raising the vehicle, it will be like going to a stiffer spring. by loosening them, and lowering the vehicle, you go to a softer rate. this is why the lower you go on your explorer, the rougher it rides. the spring rate is now too soft for the weight of the front end. you can offset this effect somewhat by using a stiffer sway bar (either EE or one off of a 98-up) and some of the newer collapsable bumpstops. i will be doing both of these until i can go through with the coilover project.

 

[Hartman]

Oh ok I see now. I already have low profile bumpstops on all four corners. They are only about .25 inches tall.

 

[Hartman]

You get those control arms yet James?

 

[james t]

nope, not yet. i figure they'll be here any day now...