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Upper Intake Torque Specifications for OHV?

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City, State
Bonita Springs, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT, V6 OHV
I need to replace my upper intake gaskets that are leaking. I looked in my old Haynes manual and these are the torque specs. They seem kind of low with the upper intake nuts torqued to 12 ft lbs. While the studs to the block are torqued to just 84 inch lbs which is 7 ft lbs.

The other torque specs I see on this site are around 20 ft lbs for the studs and nuts.

EB786B62-830D-4642-A257-4798D0DB439B.jpeg
 



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I know I'm going to get some hate for this....but I tightened the studs to "feel"
I did it this way after torquing the first stud to aforementioned 7'lbs and the E7 head broke right off upon reaching 7lbs... I tightened the nuts to what's stated in manual.

On side note, did you remove or at least loosen the metal EGR tube that inserts into the side of the intake....if not be careful guiding / looping intake back onto it...the rubber ring seal is known to kink doing it the "shortcut way". If it dies quickly after starting that's your issue there....you'll hear the loud vacuum sucking there as well.....
 






I know I'm going to get some hate for this....but I tightened the studs to "feel"
I did it this way after torquing the first stud to aforementioned 7'lbs and the E7 head broke right off upon reaching 7lbs... I tightened the nuts to what's stated in manual.

On side note, did you remove or at least loosen the metal EGR tube that inserts into the side of the intake....if not be careful guiding / looping intake back onto it...the rubber ring seal is known to kink doing it the "shortcut way". If it dies quickly after starting that's your issue there....you'll hear the loud vacuum sucking there as well.....

The egr o ring is one if the reasons why I’m replacing the upper intake gaskets again. I replaced them last week but didn’t replace the egr o ring since I didn’t notice it. It could be leaking from there since I rotated the metal tube a few times while the intake was off. I pulled the intake with the tube attached. But I sprayed the area with wd40 and didn’t notice an rpm increase.

I’d rather pull the intake again to be sure everything goes back together correctly this time since it only takes about an hour.
 






On your 2000 I believe your setup requires both gaskets for upper intake - rubber insert ones as well as "cardboard" / flat gasket...correct?
Your rubber ones will be fine...no need to replace those this time around.... in case you're in doubt.
 






On your 2000 I believe your setup requires both gaskets for upper intake - rubber insert ones as well as "cardboard" / flat gasket...correct?
Your rubber ones will be fine...no need to replace those this time around.... in case you're in doubt.
The kit comes with both the 3 piece rubber gaskets and the large metallic gasket. But the large gasket is for the OHV with the aluminum intake while the plastic intake on my 2000 just uses the 3 piece rubber gaskets.
 






Update: I pulled the intake and the original o ring for the egr tube was almost flush with the tube so it was definitely worn out.

Unfortunately I slammed the IAC pretty hard when I put the intake on the floor since I wasn’t paying attention and now the truck is idling bad.

I thought the firing order was bad at first but it’s fine. I tested the valve by tapping it with a screwdriver and the idle definitely changes. I can also hear a rattle sound inside of the valve when I shake it. I’ll get a new one tomorrow and hopefully that fixes it.
 






4.0 OHV

Upper intake Torx studs to lower intake = 15Nm/11 lb ft.

NOTE: I coat the threads at the bottom of the (6) torx studs with Nickle Anti-Seize because
they are bottoming out into the aluminum lower intake manifold.

intake_studs-jpg.jpg


Upper Intake Nuts to Upper Intake = 23Nm / 17 lb ft.

intake_nuts-jpg.jpg
 






I’ve been chasing a vacuum leak since I put everything back together. I discovered it’s at one of the two bolts that holds the egr to the tube which connects to the upper intake. I changed the egr gasket and tightened the two bolts down but it still leaks right at the bolt head. I’m out of ideas other than getting a new egr valve in case mine has some sort of pinhole leak. I circled where the leak is on the photo. The rpm’s go up when I spray that spot with carb cleaner.

B521CF25-8F82-415A-91EA-4B1A43167025.jpeg
 






I doubt the flange is leaking .
if it is a new gasket is in order.

There's a few places on that valve that can leak.

406294-1c09c1cf5ed6e0f497e37e02ab82f1b3_kindlephoto-108962574.jpg
 






I’ll be replacing the egr this weekend and cleaning up the surface where it mounts. Hopefully that fixes the issue. The valve was replaced several years ago so hopefully the nut isn’t too hard to remove.
 






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