V8 engine and suspension upgrades for towing? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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V8 engine and suspension upgrades for towing?

Matt M.

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I just purchased a 1997 Mountaineer. I am currently addressing a few basic maintenance issues, but my focus will soon shift to upgrades. I am planning to use it to tow my BMW M3 to open track events starting in the spring. The BMW with tools, spares, etc loaded onto the the steel open trailer (with electric brakes) is about 6000lbs.

I have spent a lot of time searching the archives of this forum to get an idea of where my Mountie could use some upgrades to improve its ability to tow that much weight. I am not new to towing (have Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller and anti-sway load leveling hitch), but I am new to the venerable Ford 302.

Here is a brief summary of what I have learned. If you can comment on any of these items, I would really appreciate it!

Engine:
  • Intake - any favored brand in particular? Is there any reason I should not just fabricate my own tube and add on a filter?
  • Exhaust - I will spend hours and hours on the highway with this rig, crusing to far away race tracks. I am desperate to avoid a loud droning exhaust. Is Gibson still considered the quietest? I am concerned that the gains in power will be minimal compared to a dual system. In terms of looks and tone, I would love to use a dual, if only someone could show me a quiet enough system!
  • Superchips programmer (I thought this was a good choice because it has towing specific fuel maps and can adjust shift points. Please tell me if other programmers or chips are preferable)
  • E-303 cam with 1.6 rockers (Based on my reading, this appears to be the torquiest cam for my application. Does that sound right? I have other fast cars, so I am not looking for speed, just grunt)
  • Watch carefully for a used set of FMS headers
Big question: Will the cam require any other upgrades, such as injectors, or a larger MAS, or an adapted Mustang throttle body? Will it cause problems passing emissions? Remember, my goal is torque for towing up big hills, not for getting to the grocery store faster!

Also, should I expect any improvement in fuel mileage with all of these items?

Drivetrain:
  • Add another transmission cooler inline with the stock one, consider adding an oil cooler as well (are there preferred suppliers for these items? Are there kits, or just buy a cooler and plumb it myself?)
  • Change to 4.10 gears (replacing stock 3.73s) which will help get the engine into a better part of the power curve and should keep the transmission from hunting in and out of O/D. (I am not sure yet if a gearing change will make that big a difference, anyone else have experience here?)
Suspension:
  • Monro Sensatrac shocks (stock units are just a wee bit tired at 117k)
  • Rear helper springs to improve tongue weight capacity, either Hellwig helpers or an airbag system (http://www.airliftcompany.com)
Another big question: Are there any other shocks that are especially well regarded for trucks that are used to tow?

Hopefully I have covered the important spots. Please don't hesitate to chip in any info you have that would be useful.

I will of course be replacing the P-rated tires with LT-rated tires (make a huge difference on any tow vehicle, in my experience). Since I will be buying tires and I do already own a set of PBR calipers, I am strongly tempted to fabricate brackets and buy a set of Cobra 13" rotors and replica 17" wheels. I will probably hold off on this for now.

There are obviously some folks here who know the 302 inside and out. While I am sure I will uncover any suspension issues as I start using the truck more, I would rather avoid the trial and error method of increasing torque output.

Thanks in advance, gang. And thanks to all of you who helped put this kind of info in the archives!

- -Matt
 



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dang it I had this all typed out once and lost it.
Ok, lets try again.

I have a 01' mounty that I use to pull a 4500# travel trailer. I have been very happy with mine so far. Only had it for 1 season though. I actually pulled my trailer for about 6 hours with no traler brakes and didn't notice it much. the brakes work quite well. My biggest complaint would be the exhaust and on mine at least, the rear springs are to soft.
if you haven't checked out Explorer Express http://www.explorerexpress.com/ yet you should. they are very helpful to deal with.
I can't help with the engine mods, I haven't done any and only plan on a cold air intake, and exhaust changes.
I can tell you that Ford and most other manuf. recommend not useing overdrive when towing. I don't use it and have no troubles with heat or power.
you may want to leave a few spares at home as you are approaching the weight limit http://www.bobstravelcenter.com/98towguide.html
 






I pull my 4500 pound boat and trailer every weekend in the summer, it didnt have trailer brakes on it, and I didnt have trouble stopping, but I would like to upgrade to powerslot rotors in the furture, you are talking about fabing a bracket and running the 13 inch cobra rotors, you might have to upgrade to a bigger master cylinder, and I dont know if they make a bigger on for explorers, I have the 5.0 with the AWD and the only up grades that I have is a K&N filter and MAC exhaust, I went with the mac for exhaust, but if your looking for a quiet exhaust dont get this system, I mean I like it, it sounds like a mustang, and granted im a 22 year old kid, and sound doesnt bother me yet. But if your looking for a quiet system go with the gibson, or look into a custom set up from a shop. If your looking for a filter set up, MAC carries a very nice set up, its a chrome tube to a conical filter, they are really the only people that make a full system for your truck. I havent really read into the programer to tell you the truth I didnt think they made a full programer for our trucks, I just thought that they made a chip, and you can have a custom chip burned for your application, granted it cost a little more, but by the way it looks your not hurting for money. Im sorry I cant help you with the cam issue, I have a E-303 cam that I can install in my explorer if I want, but I dont feel like messing with it right now, but I have installed this same cam in mustangs without putting anyhing else on there, but free flow exhaust, and if you are planning on getting exhaust you should be fine. As to do with the tranny cooler, you should be fine, cause the explorer is rated to pull 6400 pounds, and it was desgined with that in mind. I mean, if you want to put a different one on there, B&M makes one, that you can add a extra quart of tranny fluid to it. I have just installed a tranny temp guage to watch how hot the tranny does get. And changing the wheels to a 17 inch replica, I wouldnt worry about doing that, cause for one its gunna give you a harsher ride, and if you dont get wheels that are strong, you know with say a 2000 pound weight limit you might run the risk of damageing a wheel if you hit a pot hole or something. If I were you I would go with the edelbrock isa shocks, they are really nice, kinda expensive but very nice. I would love to have the new air lift for the rear cause it does kinda sag with the boat, and everything else in the back, it would be really nice to just press a button and air it up to make it level again. I hope I helped you on some of your questions, but the way it sounds you know what your doing, so good luck to ya..

Chris
 






wow, dont know how i missed this one, but here are a few of my opinions of your questions-


ENGINE

intake- get whichever one you want, or make your own. all the same thing.

exhaust- with cats, the 50 series Delta Flows are really quiet until you "get on it". Gibson is also really quiet.

programmer- do a search on "apten chip". this guy custom burns chips for us, and you will get alot more for your money with the apten chip than with a programmer.

Ecam- honestly, if i were making mine a tow rig, i would just stick with the stock cam.

headers- yes, watch ebay, hopefully one day you will get lucky.

drivetrain

tranny cooler- by all means, yes. i added an extra cooler inline with my stocker.

gears- yes, 4:10's would help alot towing. but, i dont know if it would be worth the money going from 3:73's. i say get everything else done first, do some towing, and then see what you think about it.

suspension
shocks- i have heard good things about the Sensatracs. i have the Edelbrocks and really like them, although i think they are too expensive.

rear- i would go with the helper bags. this will give you a factory ride unloaded, and the ability to adjust out butt sag when hooked on to something with a little too much tongue weight.

dont worry about towing with replica's....i did it all the time. i know ive said it before, but the repli's and the "real" FMS wheels are the same wheel, exept for the center cap design.

hope this helps.
 






Headers--You should get lucky one day. I have a set that I got ceramic coated from JetHot that I'm looking for time to install, perhaps during my vacation and plant shutdown time in December.

Transmission cooler--You can run another one inline or get a bigger one with/without a fan. It's your call. I'm planning on getting a bigger one with a fan, but since I haven't pulled much more than my dad's aluminum boat lately, I've been putting it off.

Programmer--Get Brian at Apten to program a dual mode chip with 87 octane tow/performance, 92 octane tow/performance, and stock position. I'm currently have mine in stock position since I think that the program is looking for the extra air flow of headers and exhaust that I haven't installed yet, causing the transmission to drop from OD 2nd gear at highway speeds going up a slight hill, but I'm sure that Brian can fix that as soon as I get the headers and exhaust on. He's been patient with me so far.

Cam--The stock cam is a truck towing cam. If I were to get another cam, I might get my old roommate from college to get one for me since he works in R&D at Comp Cams in Memphis, TN, and he knows what I'm looking for.

Exhaust--when I get the money, I'm planning on getting the Gibson stainless steel system since I also want quiet, unless I really get on it.

Gears--probably not necessary, but you should try your 3.73's first.

OD--The owner's manual for the V8 Explorer/Mountaineer actually say that it's ok to pull in OD. Looking at my transmission temperature gauge, I noticed that my transmission runs cooler in OD than in 3rd as long as my transmission isn't gear hunting, such as while I'm in hilly terrain. The 4R70W transmission is pretty tough.

Shocks--I put Bilstein's on my Mountaineer, and I love them when pulling loads.

Rear Springs--I have the Airlift Airbag system with the onboard compressor on my Mountaineer. It's cool that the last time that I had a huge load, I inflated the bbags to about 80 PSI to get the rear higher than it would be normally unloaded to get more steering traction during a thunderstorm.

I hope that I didn't confuse you too much.
 






Matt

Your Mountaineer has a lot of potential. There are many things that can be done to make it more enjoyable to drive and more suitable for towing. Since you are used to driving a BMW, I think our Explorer Express X-Spec Handling package would be right for you. This is a well balanced kit that includes lowering the center of gravity, upgrading the bump stops/ bumpers, installing special tuned Edelbrock Shocks and our upgraded sway bar package. The combination of these pieces will give ride and handling you would not think possible with this kind of vehicle. The bouncy/floaty ride will be gone. You will gain a sedan like ride with improved cornering and vastly reduced body roll. The ride will be firm but not bone jarring like other lowering options. The Air Lift Load leveling kit works great with our handling package. We have installed this kit with our lowering kit many times and its works great. You have the option to control the ride height whenever you need to from the drivers seat.

As far as power goes, intake, exhaust and chip are the way to go. The Mac Intake is a good value for $139.95. It offers 12+ hp that is comparable to any other brand. The most forgiving exhaust system for highway travel is the Dynomax cat-back system for $259.95. If you are looking for a stainless system I have the Gibson system available for a competitive price. It also has a nice tone that is more quiet than a Flowmaster or a Borla. If you want the extra power and throttle response, go with the Pro-M 75mm Mass Air Sensor for $244.95. You can finish it off with a custom chip from Apten Performance. Brian has a lot of knowledge with Fords. He can get you the exact chip for your specific needs. All of these power options will increase power and throttle response across the RPM range. The drivability will be smooth and fuel efficiency can actualy improve. Your truck will idle smooth and start right up in the a.m.

Our experience with V8 Explorers & Mountaineers is first hand.

Let me know if you have any questions.

888-EXPLORER (888-397-5673) info@explorerexpress.com
 

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Here is a picture of the Air Lift system installed with the X-Spec Handling Package.
 

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Here is a picture of a Mountaineer that has our complete suspension package installed.
 

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Matt:

Everyone has covered most of the bases well. Mighty fine input from folks who know really know 5.0 Explorers and Mountys much better than I do.

I have towed all types of travel trailers over 35 plus years with different vehicles and now tow with our 96 5.0 Limited Edition. My mods include:

Class III Hidden Hitch & Reese mini-brake controller.
Michelin LTX MS Tires (Much better ride than LTs)
Power Slot Front Rotors and Pads (From John V. at EE)
Poly Swaybar bushings (Stock Sway Bar)
Air Lift Air Bags with on board controler
Torsion Bar Twist (about 1.5")
Monroe Reflex shocks
Ford Motorsport headers (Ceramic Coated)
Stage 8 Stainless locking bolts and washers
Optima Yellow Top Battery
Mobile 1 Synthetic tranny fluid
Vavoline Synthetic power steering fluid

Things I would perhaps do differently:

Like you, I was "in the hunt" after more practical useable towing torque. Going to headers actually LOST some useable torque in my towing range at 60-63MPH. (about 2800 RPMs with a 3.73 axle) So I would not go to the expense of headers strickly for the hunt for towing torque. IMO you will be disappointed with headers for towing, especially on long grades.

However, the FMS headers DID improve towing milage by about 1.5 MPG and quieten the engine considerably. My old factory OE headers had a leak, as most 5.0s do. And that is a definate plus on long trips!

Believe I would take a serious look at the Apten Chip, although I perfer using regular (87 Octane) gas.

Secondly, I might not do air lift air bags again. I might seriously consider Hellwig Helper springs for the rear. (Progressive model) MUCH less trouble, cheaper, and unloaded, I understand the progressive models provide a nice ride. Monroe load leveler coil over rear shocks are also worth consideration.

Bilstein shocks would be my choice, rather than Monroe Reflexes. They have earned a great reputation in the higher end trailer and Motorhome RV industry.

Overall you should consider a high quality weight distribution hitch, which will take your trailer tongue weight and distribute it to both the vehicle and trailer's wheels/axles. The result is a balanced, controlled combined chasis articulation of both truck and trailer for better braking and handling. (from your post, perhaps you already have this) Some higher quality WDHs even have built in sway control engineered into them.

At present, I still have stock intake and exhaust. John's MAC system or KKM something similar is worth consideration, although I still have conserns about their filtration capacities.

I think one needs to be careful about the exhaust system "when on the hunt" for practical, useable, towing torque. If not done right, one could loose torque it would seem.

Finally, I have received great products and advice from John V and staff from Explorer Express. They offer great and their knowledge is, indeed, first hand, as John says.

James T and JJUE are great authorities on 5.0s and Explorers/Mounties. They have given me very insightful and valuable advice.

Happy Trails

Mike
 






Matt:

Forgot to comment on the rear axle change. Like James T. says, do the other changes and see what you have in the way of useable torque/pulling power IMO. Both of our Explorers have stock 3.73 limited slip axles.

If not satisfied, going to a 4.10 axle ratio will probably help. It would shift the useable pulling torque downward, which is exactly what is needed. Our 5.0L Explorers are engineered to reach torque at 3200 RPMs...too high for highway towing at 60-65 MPH, IMO. I would perfer to reach maxium torque at 2600 RPMs.

Problem is, if you tow out of overdrive at 60-65 MPH with 4.10s, your engine is really going to be "wound up tight" and might be too noisy inside to be comfortable on long trips.

Mike
 






I have only towed one heavy load since my V8 swap - a 6500lb trailer and 4x4 truck. I pulled it ~200 miles at an average speed of 75mph with no problems in power. I was at ~80Mph in Michigan and ~73Mph in Ohio. There are some up/down, but mostly flat. In the Ohio T-pike up hill, I was able to pass the slow moving traffic with ease.

At the time, my combo was 1999 Ranger 4x4, stock Explorer V8/4R70W, FRPP headers, 3.5" single exhuast, 4.10:1 gears. The gears are great for towing, as at 80MPH, in OD, I am at ~2800 RPM.

Have not pulled any heavy loads with my Kenne Bell yet, but I would definitely recommend that for LOW END torque :)
 






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