V8 Swap with M5ODR2 clutch release issues | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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V8 Swap with M5ODR2 clutch release issues

newstylecustoms

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 24, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Clayton, IN
Year, Model & Trim Level
199 Explorer Sport
I have swapped a 5.0 into my 94 Sport with a M5ODR2 and attempted to used the existing master cylinder and slave that worked fine with the 4.0. It seems that the slave cylinder is not moving quite enough to disengage the clutch after bleeding it many times with different methods. Before I replace the master cylinder I just wanted to see if anyone else has done this particular combination and had problems also.

Thanks
 



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I'd be looking at the slave cylinder, it may not have enough travel to fully disengage the pressure plate.
 






I'd be looking at the slave cylinder, it may not have enough travel to fully disengage the pressure plate.
It is the same part number as the f150 slave and doesn't leak, so I don't think that is the issue
 






It is the same part number as the f150 slave and doesn't leak, so I don't think that is the issue
I've never had good luck reusing a slave cylinder. With the master cylinder, if you pull the C clip and lift the pushrod if there is any air in the system it will come out there. Put a towel under the master cylinder to catch any fluid that drips.
 






my money is on trapped air bubble
Do what Josh P said, that will remove any trapped air, no amount of bleeding will release it once it gets to that spot

I have a sport trac outside using M5odR2 and 5.0 with gen II clutch pedal master and slave (same as your gen I stuff), clutch works just fine.
 






I have pulled the snap ring to bleed multiple times. I really didn't want to pull the trans out again.

410Fortune, So you are confirming that the small diameter master cylinder in the 91 and up trucks will work? If so I think I will try the new master first before pulling the trans More Information for SKP SKCC649015
 






Why not first try what Josh is saying, it’s free and easy...
 






Why not first try what Josh is saying, it’s free and easy...
He says he has already done that. The 4.0 clutch master cylinder is a 7/8 bore. The ranger 4 cylinder unit is smaller. If you don't want to pull the trans, try replacing the master cylinder first.
 






The clutch line has a quick connect fitting, if you disconnect it from the slave cylinder the clutch pedal should not move if you try to press it down. If it does move then your master cylinder is bad.
 






The clutch line has a quick connect fitting, if you disconnect it from the slave cylinder the clutch pedal should not move if you try to press it down. If it does move then your master cylinder is bad.
I have done this many times in the past and never had this much trouble. After researching all the master cylinders quite thoroughly 91 and up master cylinders are .630 bore. The master cylinders are the same size regardless of engine size according to RockAuto. Anyway, the whole point was, I just wanted to verify that the small bore was capable of releasing the V8 clutch. 410 Fortune seems to have confirmed that. Just wanting to make sure before ordering parts. Perfection clutch has a series of videos about bleeding the clutch system and a really great way to bench bleed the master cylinder with the line attached to it. I completed those steps and got the results that they claimed were correct. I think this master cylinder has a bad seal though and is bypassing so not moving the slave cylinder enough.
 






What brand of slave and master? I would only use luk
Master cylinders often lose a seal when not bled perfectly the first time, if the pedal is pressed too far during initial bleed you can rip a seal
I have had to replace new ones more then once, this is why the bench bleed is so important on these systems

My sport trac outside is using 95-04 style clutch pedal, slightly different then the earlier masters in the way they mount to the pedal/firewall if I recall correctly
It should interchange with your slave cylinder however

Have you measure the clutch travel through the inspection port?
 






What brand of slave and master? I would only use luk
Master cylinders often lose a seal when not bled perfectly the first time, if the pedal is pressed too far during initial bleed you can rip a seal
I have had to replace new ones more then once, this is why the bench bleed is so important on these systems

My sport trac outside is using 95-04 style clutch pedal, slightly different then the earlier masters in the way they mount to the pedal/firewall if I recall correctly
It should interchange with your slave cylinder however

Have you measure the clutch travel through the inspection port?
Yes I did measure and it was only around 1/4", Perfection clutch says it requires 5/16" to release.
 






1/4" is not enough something wrong with master cylinder for sure
 






I have swapped a 5.0 into my 94 Sport with a M5ODR2 and attempted to used the existing master cylinder and slave that worked fine with the 4.0. It seems that the slave cylinder is not moving quite enough to disengage the clutch after bleeding it many times with different methods. Before I replace the master cylinder I just wanted to see if anyone else has done this particular combination and had problems also.

Thanks
most likely slave did you replace it when doing the swap? if its the same as the 99 5sp its on the throw-out bearing and always replace it when trans or engines out
 






most likely slave did you replace it when doing the swap? if its the same as the 99 5sp its on the throw-out bearing and always replace it when trans or engines out
I didn't replace it since it was working properly. I have ordered a new Master and will see if that gets before pulling the trans again.
 






Install the replacement master cylinder and it did not help. Pulled the trans out yesterday and ordered a new slave cylinder as well.
 






Is the flywheel and pressure plate correct for this application?
 






You mentioned bleeding this out different ways, what different ways have you tried? I have seen people go through quarts of brake fluid trying to bleed these with no luck. There is a procedure that is simple enough but requires two people and you are not using your foot to press the clutch pedal. Because of the spring on the pedal you need to move the clutch pedal by hand and not step on it to keep it from snapping to the floor during bleeding.
 






I have swapped a 5.0 into my 94 Sport with a M5ODR2 and attempted to used the existing master cylinder and slave that worked fine with the 4.0. It seems that the slave cylinder is not moving quite enough to disengage the clutch after bleeding it many times with different methods. Before I replace the master cylinder I just wanted to see if anyone else has done this particular combination and had problems also.

Thanks
Try using the 5.0 throwout bearing ( slave cylinder ) It's designed to do the job. I have a 92 Eddie Bower and a 91 Bronco II I'm converting to 351 Windsor's for durability & reliability. AOD trans.
 



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The part number for the slave is the same for all the M5OD trans, doesn't matter what engine. I have also cross referenced the clutch pressure plate and friction disk also the same for all the 5.0 truck engines. Hoping the new slave will wrap this project up.
 






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