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Vacuum Tree

sirhk100

Explorer Addict
Joined
December 19, 2000
Messages
1,776
Reaction score
1
City, State
las vegas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91
So what's the secret to keeping vacuum lines and caps on that tree at the back driver's side of the intake? Seems like every few weeks I'll catch the exploder idling rough or it'll pop or back fire on startup and that's my sign to pop the hood and check that tree. 100% of the time it's a vacuum line has popped off or one of the caps is gone. This happens every couple weeks. I've even gone so far as putting a hose clamp on them before and they still somehow work their way off or just blow the caps open. I don't know if it's got something to do with Vegas being 110+ during the summer and then down into the 30's in the winter temp wise or what? Another thing is I wonder if occasionally it pops back thru the intake which then pops them all off?

Anyways, ideas? I've put rtv/silicone in the caps and put them on, still no luck...

Thanks,
Khris
 



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"occasionally it pops back thru the intake which then pops them all off?"

Yes, at least that's what my '94 does. I use small zip ties on mine. They work pretty well, but a line still comes off once in a while when it pops back through the intake.
 






are the caps and rubber hoses soft? make sure to check the caps and tree for trans fluid. if the trans (assuming you have an automatic) modulator valve is bad vacuum from the engine will pull trans fluid back through the line to the tree. when it hits the rubber caps and hoses it softens them and they come off easier.

just something to check
 






Does anyone have pictures of vacuum tree and where the lines should go. Because my lines are hard...and some of them broke off and i didnt ever see where they were originally placed..
 






... Seems like every few weeks I'll catch the exploder idling rough or it'll pop or back fire on startup and that's my sign to pop the hood and check that tree. ...
Just curious, how many miles on the engine and has the timing chain ever been replaced? Our first '92 had 219k on the original engine and the back fire on startup was getting worse and worse after it had over 100k. I had a 351w in another vehicle with very similar symptoms and after changing the timing chain it started very easy with no more back fires, idled really smooth and stopped dieseling. I know there are chain tensioners that take up slack in the timing chain, but I think they can only do so much. I have a '92 & '93 now with just over 100k on each and when the water pump needs replacing I'm going after the timing chain, too.
 






All the caps are new cause I tend to go thru them. Lines are all soft and in good condition. The engine is a factory ford crate motor installed by the ford dealer about 4 years ago and has about 30K total on it. Definitely no trans fluid, it's a 5 speed manual which is actually newer then the engine... Drivetrain in this expo is very new! I think it happens on initial start up of the day or afterwork. It kinda is cold blooded and sputters and runs a little rough for the first little bit...

I'll have to see about getting some zip ties or clamps around them i guess. They're sort of a pain to get to cause of some other mods in my engine compartment that block it.

The vacuum tree itself is on the drivers side of the intake sticking straight out towards the driver side fender a few inches forward of the firewall. I don't really think it matters what lines go where on it as long as they're all connected and any spare ports are capped.
 






... The vacuum tree itself is on the drivers side of the intake sticking straight out towards the driver side fender a few inches forward of the firewall. I don't really think it matters what lines go where on it as long as they're all connected and any spare ports are capped.
I've considered replacing the fitting on the engine with a single port and rerouting all the lines to a new tree mounted on the fender liner somewhere. There's a firewall mounted vacuum tree on the '86-'93 Mustang that looks interesting. That way the only line getting heat of the engine would be the single port line from the engine to the tree.
 












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