Valley Class III hitch

[Essex4x4]

Yes? No? what does everyone think? I like this one because it covers the factory 1-1/4" hitch, and in fact uses it to help strengthen the 2" hitch itself.

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~V81702.htm?vehicleid=20067387

 

[jupiterak]

Nice but kinda pricey when you can usually pick a oem at a junkyard for $50

 

[Essex4x4]

as true as that may be from 2006+ the factory hitch is WELDED ONTO THE FRAME!! therefore i cannot remove it without cutting or welding.

Thanks for the input though, the thought of a junk oem did cross my mind, and then i decided to go new.

 

[jupiterak]

That's pretty dumb, didn't know that.

 

[TinwoodyII]

Yes? No? what does everyone think? I like this one because it covers the factory 1-1/4" hitch, and in fact uses it to help strengthen the 2" hitch itself.

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-H~V81702.htm?vehicleid=20067387

I had the same type of hitch on my 05, and it worked great.
Bill W

 

[Essex4x4]

I had the same type of hitch on my 05, and it worked great.
Bill W

Bill your actually the reason I first looked at this hitch, i saw pics you had posted a while back of this, in fact it was the same exact picture. did you have to reverse the hitch so instead of a drop you had a rise? I was also thinking about having it welded on as well as bolted for added strength.

Keep in mind i don't tow that much and this will mostly be used for a cargo carrier so i can go from a 300lb capacity to a 500lb capacity.

 

[cedwards415]

Anyone else have any experience or recommendations on this Valley hitch? I can get a brand new one shipped to my house for $175.

OR...

I can get a Class III replacement from Ford. These are manufactured and sold for when an Explorer with the Class III is rear-ended and the hitch and therefore frame is damaged. So the class II I have now, would be cut off of the frame rails. A couple holes are drilled and I'll have an OEM. The look is totally better as well as the engineering / design. The real issue is that this will cost me $600 for the part alone.

Any thoughts????

 

[thebrakeman]

I've seen bad examples of adding a class 3 hitch, which ends up much lower than the original class 2, looking stupid. But for $175, and the way it actually uses and covers the 1¼" opening, I'd go this route before I spent $600. No question in my mind. The 7-point attachment looks very stout, and the receiver opening nearly as high as stock.

The question is: what are you going to do with it that you can't do with the class 2?
If you intent to tow more than your current max tow rating (which is 3500 lbs, regardless of engine), then you need to add an auxiliary trans cooler (either engine). Some might say you need to upgrade the axle ratio if you have the V6. Personally, I'd say the hitch and cooler alone are probably good for 5000 lbs, but not the full 7000.

 

[cedwards415]

I plan on towing a boat, which loaded and including trailer should weigh around 4000 lbs (give or take). I have looked into a trans cooler and they are $40, so I will most likely go that route. Not going to even consider an axle change. Thanks for the advice.