Valve cover replacement | Ford Explorer Forums

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Valve cover replacement

Wadedog

Member
Joined
May 28, 2017
Messages
14
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City, State
Middletown
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004,explorer,eddie bauer
I have read a couple threads but doesn't seem to cover my engine.
My 2004 explorer has the 4.0 with throttle run by wire not cable.
It doesn't look like a super hard job but I would like to know what tools are needed and especially what tools are needed for the egr line.
Any tips or advice from people who have done this before are appreciated. Thanks
 



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I just realized when you responded that I didn't title it correctly.
It should have said valve cover gasket replacement.
Both are leaking but drivers side is worse.
I dug into removing intake and didn't have anything to disconnect the egr tube from the intake.
Called and drove all over and no one has a wrench that big in stock.
It looks like a 1 1/16"
I was looking for a crow foot first but did find home depot had a combination wrench in that size but today needed the car back so had to put it back together for now.
So i found this forum and was looking for help to make a better game plan for next time I have a day to spend on it.
 






Just unbolt the egr valve from the intake at the 2 10mm bolts and pull it out that way. You should be able to slightly bend the tube and get the valve cover out from under it.
 






Well,
I have a 1 1/16" wrench with the closed end cut off so I can slide a pipe onto it for more leverage. Holding tension on the wrench and pipe while smacking it with a hammer works well.
That dog gone egr bolt is a bugger.
Go to harbor freight and get a cheap wrench to cut.

Use a lot of thread treatment the night before. I prefer a mix of 50-50 trans fluid and acetone ( pure nail polish remover)

Fill the missus bottle of nail polish remover with yours, but don't give her more than half. Then refill your bottle with trans fluid. shake well. you can use a drinking straw to apply it where it is needed, better yet a syringe. I'd try to apply this several times, allowing a soak time between. Then a good overnight soak. The bolt will come off easier when cold, although a little heat might bring more liquid onto the threads.

Once you get past that egr nut the rest should go fairly easy. Good luck.
 












I tried to buy a wrench at harbor freight but they didn't have a wrench that size alone. I didn't want to pay $40 for a set just for one wrench.
I soaked the egr tube nut over night but didn't get to try it yet.
If I remove it from the intake way is there a gasket I need there too ?
What size are the intake bolts.
 






Most of the time on the 02 up they love to freeze to the insert in the manifold. When that brakes loose and not the nut it's just not going to come out. At best all you can do it twist toward the firewall.

T30 torx bit takes the manifold bolts out. It's best to have a 1/4" drive vs 3/8" drive for clearance but both will work.
 






I'm not sure I understand you boominxplorer.
If I can't get the egr nut on the tube to loosen ,is it best to remove the 10 mm bolts and remove the egr from the intake that way.
I don't understand what you meant by one part breaking loose and not coming out.
 






I thought about cutting a wrench for the egr tube for more leverage but I don't want to twist the line and break it either.
 






I was explaining a normal scenario when you mess with that lower egr tube nut.

In your situation it's best to take the 2 10mm bolts out and bend the tube out towards the passenger fender to wiggle the valve cover out. There is also a fuel line disconnect that needs to be pulled apart also on that same side.
 






Hmm didn't get to the fuel line,didn't see that .
 






Does anyone have a photo of that fuel line
 






I replaced my valve cover gaskets last year for an oil leak. I used a 90 degree pick to help unlock the injector plugs. If I remember correctly, I just loosened up everything and moved it out of the way. There are several good write ups on this forum on how to do it. Search them and check you tube. Hope the I helped. Dave P.
 






Are you saying there are write ups for the fuel line or valve cover gasket
 






I replaced my valve cover gaskets on my Job 2 SOHC last year. Never touched the fuel injector wiring. I just removed/unbolted anything that was in my way. It probably took me about 2.5 hours (not counting the time it took to clean things). Wasn't an easy job, because there's a lot of stuff in the way, but it's doable. I doesn't hurt to have an extra pair of hands to hold stuff out of the way while wrestling the covers off and back on. I started with the passenger side valve cover and found it to be the easier of the two to get off/on. The hardest bolts/nuts to get at are the ones at the back. Use a 1/4 drive deep socket on a universal and a long extension. This will need to be done by feel only.

One big tip I can give you is to be very careful with the fuel line connection to the rail. There's a green o-ring, which seals the connection. I chipped mine reinstalling the fuel line because I failed to lubricate the o-ring first (I know better). This stupid o-ring is not available separately according to Ford and the best price I found was something like $185 for a complete new forward fuel line. I visited a friend of mine's shop, dug through his junk pile and found an o-ring on a used fuel injector off of something that was the right size/color. That was a lucky find. I'm sure the o-ring is a standard size, but I don't know what size it is and auto parts stores don't have a selection of new green o-rings to try to match to.
 












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