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VCT issue after timing component replacement

eleven

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Ford Explorer XLT
Hello,

I replaced my timing component and water pump on my 2014 Explorer after I found coolant weeping through the weep hole. Put back together, it idles rough and I see that bank 1 intake phaser actual is at 1-2 degrees. When RPM increase, engine runs smooth and phaser desired equals actual. What do you think is going wrong? Could oil be leaking by the bank 1 intake VCT solenoid?

Thanks,

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Welcome to the Forum.:wave:

Peter
 












Did you double-check all cam timing after all chains and tensioners were installed and released? Ive seen them skip a tooth inadvertently. If the solenoids were functional prior to the pump swap then its safe to assume they are ok, unless they became contaminated during removal.

Normally it will throw a check engine light for relative cam timing pretty quickly once you start it. How long have you run it? Check and compare compression bank to bank as well.

Mike.
 






I appreciate the reply. I was very careful with the timing during the repair. I took pictures as I went along and I'm 98% sure I did it correctly. Since I had to open the front cover to get at the water pump, I changed the timing components as well. Initially, when it was put back together, I started the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes. At this point, I did an oil change. The next day it was running really, really rough at idle. Thinking I made a mistake on the timing, I put a can of seafoam in the crankcase in desperate measure. Within 10 minutes the engine was running way, way better. I drove for about 50 miles and did another oil change.

Above 1500rpm the timing is perfect. Its just at idle the bank 1 intake timing is off 1-2 degree. I replaced both the bank 1 intake and exhaust VCT solenoids when I replace the waterpump/timing components. When taking off the valve cover, I must have damaged the solenoid connectors therefore needing replacement.

If oil is leaking by the intake solenoid at idle, could this result in timing off by 1-2 degrees. Why at higher rpm the timing is fine?

I haven't measured compression yet. This might be the next step before I remove a valve cover.

Thanks,
Tom
 






Did you use Ford OEM components or something after market? I'm about to do the exact same repair myself, unfortunately...
 






I used a Ford OEM water pump and Duracraft timing kit from autozone. It's a big job. The most difficult part was getting the front cover back on. Fortunately for me, it went well.
 






Running into a similar issue currently, New water pump and timing Kit getting timing code, what was the fix for you?
 






^^ Welcome to the Forum. :wave:

Peter
 






Running into a similar issue currently, New water pump and timing Kit getting timing code, what was the fix for you?
My initial problem was coolant leaking out of the water pump weep hole. I replaced the water pump and timing chain/components. I buttoned the engine back up and started driving it. It was then, I started have cam position error codes. Additionally, the Explorer felt a little sluggish to me.

Troubleshooting the best I could, I thought that I had a bad cam phaser. I opened the front cover again to replace 2 of the 4 phasers. When it was time to reinstall the timing chain I was very careful to tension it properly. I put everything back together and 20k miles later still running like a top.

The benefit of hindsight is 20/20. I think the first time I opened the front cover, to replace the water pump, I don't think I tensioned the timing chain properly which might have caused the chain to skip a link. This is turn caused the phaser to try an compensate for it ultimately damaging it. I hope this makes sense.
 






My initial problem was coolant leaking out of the water pump weep hole. I replaced the water pump and timing chain/components. I buttoned the engine back up and started driving it. It was then, I started have cam position error codes. Additionally, the Explorer felt a little sluggish to me.

Troubleshooting the best I could, I thought that I had a bad cam phaser. I opened the front cover again to replace 2 of the 4 phasers. When it was time to reinstall the timing chain I was very careful to tension it properly. I put everything back together and 20k miles later still running like a top.

The benefit of hindsight is 20/20. I think the first time I opened the front cover, to replace the water pump, I don't think I tensioned the timing chain properly which might have caused the chain to skip a link. This is turn caused the phaser to try an compensate for it ultimately damaging it. I hope this makes sense.


Check out this thread.

 






My initial problem was coolant leaking out of the water pump weep hole. I replaced the water pump and timing chain/components. I buttoned the engine back up and started driving it. It was then, I started have cam position error codes. Additionally, the Explorer felt a little sluggish to me.

Troubleshooting the best I could, I thought that I had a bad cam phaser. I opened the front cover again to replace 2 of the 4 phasers. When it was time to reinstall the timing chain I was very careful to tension it properly. I put everything back together and 20k miles later still running like a top.

The benefit of hindsight is 20/20. I think the first time I opened the front cover, to replace the water pump, I don't think I tensioned the timing chain properly which might have caused the chain to skip a link. This is turn caused the phaser to try an compensate for it ultimately damaging it. I hope this makes sense.
Thanks, I did the same water pump and timing kit replacement and everything started fine sounded normal even runs smooth but now I’m getting the P0016 code. I’ve done timing before on different vehicles but I guess if that one cam is a tooth off it will do this. I’ll be reopening the timing cover and checking if the phaser skipped a tooth.
 






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