Vehicle engine stopped at 70 mph

[JCbucks]

I have an interesting issue with my V6, 2WD 2007 Explorer with about 128,000 miles on it. Two weekends ago I had driven around 110 miles at 70 mph when the vehicle lurched. Around 2 seconds later the engine stopped. The radio stayed on and multiple warning lights came on; among them, the one for the charging system. I glided to the edge of the road, put the vehicle in park and immediately tried to start the engine. It did not start (it was totally dead, no lights, it won’t crank, no “click”, nothing.) I waited a few (maybe 5?) minutes and tried to start the vehicle and it started. It then ran for around 10 miles and shut down again. Replaced alternator and made it around 10 miles down the road before stopping again. I waited for a few minutes and was able to start the vehicle again. I drove at 60 mph with the AC off and was able to make it the remaining 80 miles or so home without it stopping.

I have since replaced the battery (it was old), the fuel pump relay and the PCM module relay, but the problem still exists once I drive around 70 mph. It has quit after going 3 miles; however, I’ve also made it as far as 25 miles prior to it stopping. Ambient temperature doesn’t seem to affect as it has stopped running with ambient temperatures of 63F and 90F. It has not stopped when I have been driving under 55 mph with the exception of one time that I restarted the vehicle around 3 minutes after it had shut down and tried to pull back on to the interstate and two times described at the bottom. The vehicle only made it up to 45 mph before stopping again. The cruise control has been set during some of the instances where the engine has stopped, but was off during others. When the car stops all of the warning lights on the dash illuminates, the radio stays on and AC continues to run. When trying to restart the vehicle immediately it quits, the anti-theft light does not turn on (none of the dashboard lights do either, it is just dead), but after a couple of minutes I am able to start the vehicle and the anti-theft light turns on and stayed solid for 3 seconds or so.

The codes that I have found are below:

Code Description Causes
U1900 controller area network (CAN) communication bus malfunction Bad PCM is one of many possible causes
P2105 throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown
P0446 EVAP - vent control system malfunction Bad vent valve, bad PCM, wiring short
P0455 EVAP - leak detected Bad gas cap or leak in EVAP line
P0600 serial communication link
P1000 onboard diagnostic to drive cycle Did not complete full diagnostic check
U0500 vehicle speed sensor (VSS) not working properly Bad VSS, bad (or incorrectly configured) PCM, loose wire

The oil change required light is on, but I recently had the oil changed and I suspect that the alarm was not reset. The oil level is good.

Most recently, it appeared to operate fine (ran 20+ miles at 65-70 mph) immediately after I replaced the PCM module relay; however, I pulled over and filled the gas tank, got back on the highway and it stopped after 2 miles or so. I started it a couple different times and it only ran for 30 seconds or so before shutting down again. I waited for around 15 minutes, started it and made it 30 miles or so at 60 mph with no issue.

Also, there have been two separate incidents where we were driving 70 mph for 10 miles or so, took an exit and made an immediate hard right at the end of the exit ramp. It stopped running immediately after making the right hand turn.

 

[Boomyal]

Sounds like this might be one for the Pros?

 

[bbrown702]

I have an interesting issue with my V6, 2WD 2007 Explorer with about 128,000 miles on it. Two weekends ago I had driven around 110 miles at 70 mph when the vehicle lurched. Around 2 seconds later the engine stopped. The radio stayed on and multiple warning lights came on; among them, the one for the charging system. I glided to the edge of the road, put the vehicle in park and immediately tried to start the engine. It did not start (it was totally dead, no lights, it won’t crank, no “click”, nothing.) I waited a few (maybe 5?) minutes and tried to start the vehicle and it started. It then ran for around 10 miles and shut down again. Replaced alternator and made it around 10 miles down the road before stopping again. I waited for a few minutes and was able to start the vehicle again. I drove at 60 mph with the AC off and was able to make it the remaining 80 miles or so home without it stopping.

I have since replaced the battery (it was old), the fuel pump relay and the PCM module relay, but the problem still exists once I drive around 70 mph. It has quit after going 3 miles; however, I’ve also made it as far as 25 miles prior to it stopping. Ambient temperature doesn’t seem to affect as it has stopped running with ambient temperatures of 63F and 90F. It has not stopped when I have been driving under 55 mph with the exception of one time that I restarted the vehicle around 3 minutes after it had shut down and tried to pull back on to the interstate and two times described at the bottom. The vehicle only made it up to 45 mph before stopping again. The cruise control has been set during some of the instances where the engine has stopped, but was off during others. When the car stops all of the warning lights on the dash illuminates, the radio stays on and AC continues to run. When trying to restart the vehicle immediately it quits, the anti-theft light does not turn on (none of the dashboard lights do either, it is just dead), but after a couple of minutes I am able to start the vehicle and the anti-theft light turns on and stayed solid for 3 seconds or so.

The codes that I have found are below:

Code Description Causes
U1900 controller area network (CAN) communication bus malfunction Bad PCM is one of many possible causes
P2105 throttle actuator control system - forced engine shutdown
P0446 EVAP - vent control system malfunction Bad vent valve, bad PCM, wiring short
P0455 EVAP - leak detected Bad gas cap or leak in EVAP line
P0600 serial communication link
P1000 onboard diagnostic to drive cycle Did not complete full diagnostic check
U0500 vehicle speed sensor (VSS) not working properly Bad VSS, bad (or incorrectly configured) PCM, loose wire

The oil change required light is on, but I recently had the oil changed and I suspect that the alarm was not reset. The oil level is good.

Most recently, it appeared to operate fine (ran 20+ miles at 65-70 mph) immediately after I replaced the PCM module relay; however, I pulled over and filled the gas tank, got back on the highway and it stopped after 2 miles or so. I started it a couple different times and it only ran for 30 seconds or so before shutting down again. I waited for around 15 minutes, started it and made it 30 miles or so at 60 mph with no issue.

Also, there have been two separate incidents where we were driving 70 mph for 10 miles or so, took an exit and made an immediate hard right at the end of the exit ramp. It stopped running immediately after making the right hand turn.

Sounds like mine, it's at the dealer now. Turned out to be the engine control module

 

[Bobmbx]

The ability to start and run the engine at all tells you its not mechanical. And thats good. It sounds like a controller malfunctioning, and resetting to an operable state on re-start.

 

[matsavol]

Could be a wiring or connector issue? Maybe can try having car parked and idling and trying to move wires and connectors to see if that kills the engine? Maybe you could also try tapping the ECU slightly if it has some intermittent contacts inside, such as failing solder joints?

 

[JCbucks]

I wanted to provide an update…
I took a 120 mile (each way) driving trip today after I had the vehicle in to my local mechanic. My local mechanic had inspected all electrical connections, especially the PCM ground, and found no “smoking gun.” They drove the vehicle on the interstate 3 separate times; putting a total of 71 miles on and were not able to duplicate the shutdown. The hope was that by confirming that all of the connections were good they inadvertently fixed the problem.
Here is how the day went:
1. Prior to my trip, the vehicle was in my garage and the car alarm went off. No doors were open. This is actually the second time that this has happened in the last week or so.
2. An hour or so later I started the vehicle and began my trip. There were no warning lights at all.
3. I made it around 1 mile at 35 mph and the gas light cap light came on.
4. I drove 2 miles then pulled over, took the gas cap off and tightened it.
5. When I started the vehicle up the check engine light came on immediately.
6. Drove 60 to 65 mph for around 60 miles then stopped around 10 minutes to pick up lunch.
7. Pulled back onto the highway and ran at 65 to 70 mph for 5 miles and the vehicle stopped.
8. Waited about 5 minutes and started the vehicle again. I drove around 50 miles at 60 to 65 mph and the vehicle stopped when going up a long hill.
9. Waited about 2 minutes and started the vehicle again. I drove around 5 miles at 35 mph and stopped the vehicle for around 3 hours.
10. Filled gas tank to ¾ full.
11. Decided to take 2-lane roads as they are at most 55 mph; however, on occasion my vehicle stopped when going up hills even at 40 mph. This happed multiple times until I found my way back to the highway.
12. After waiting around an hour, I drove 80 miles at 55 to 60 mph and the vehicle stopped once.

Two things can be noted:
• 70 mph is not “magical” as the vehicle will stop running if it has to work harder (as when going up a hill) at lower speeds.
• Longer periods of time between starts (after a stall) result in longer periods of time that the vehicle can operate before stalling.

Thank you for the suggestion of letting the vehicle idle and wiggle the wires. I’ll try it this week and provide an update.

 

[JEastonjr]

coolant sensor. maybe the computer thinks it's overheating. (just thinking out loud.)

 

[Duranged84]

You have more patience than I, Friend. Hope you get it figured out and keep us updated.

Really sounds like ECU or crappy connection somewhere in power/ground for ecu. Too many codes for can-bus and related. Plus the random stuff like the fuel cap and tps. If wiggling, pulling, tapping on wiring/actual ecu doesnt produce any results, maybe try misting them with a spray bottle of water. Doesn't sound like a moisture issue but could possibly help track it down if everything else is failing to provide input. I wouldn't soak it down everywhere but I would mist sections of wire harness slowly, etc. I don't know how much changed between my 03 4.0 and yours but Im thinking theyre still fairly closely related. I have gone full scale water hose on mine with no issues but every truck is different and its mostly not recommended to soak your engine.

Also, just for safety, You may already be well aware but better safe than sorry, If you go sprayin around or anything like that, respect the spark plug wires/coil pack. They will bite and dont exactly have to be bad or the problem to bite when moisture is introduced. If thats a no sh*t thought from you then good, But if its something you arent aware of then I would rather warn you than have you come back angry.