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Walking Dead - 1999 Explorer 4x4 XLT (174K) - PICS

NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
thanks for the info. i just purchased a set of 20 from the seller for $6.92 w/free shipping. unbelievable price! i'll replace a few easy ones and save the rest for when i'm feeling more ambitious.

Cannot beat the price. Autozone wanted almost $6 bucks an LED!
 
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NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Compare the back of both units as you can't tell for sure from the front alone. Best bet is to compare the part # on the one you have with the one you're looking at on e-bay or wherever. The radio with remote cd in my son's '97 Mountaineer wasn't working right so I took one out of a nearly identical '97 Mountaineer at the salvage yard. The fronts looked the same, but the one from the salvage yard had no place to plug in the antenna, and the wiring plugs were different. I took it back and found another one that did work from another Mountaineer. Tried to get one out of a Windstar that was exactly what I needed, but couldn't get 1 screw out. Those Ford models are probably correct, but even then there might be differences from one vehicle to another.

Thank you. How much did you pay for your salvage CD player? I don't know what a fair price would be . . .
 
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429CJ-3X2

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'01 & '02 Sport Tracs,
I think I only paid $20 for the radio, but the cd changer is in the console. It's controlled by the head unit, not built into it. They get $30 for a factory radio with built-in cd. And the customer takes it out.
 
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NeuroResid

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City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Review to date:

1. Poor tires (RESOLVED)
2. Oxidized headlamps (RESOLVED)
3. Ineffective windshield wipers (RESOLVED)
4. Weak 9007 bulbs (RESOLVED)
5. CD/Radio randomly turns off or on; CD player does not work (PENDING)
6. Center arm console extremely worn (RESOLVED)
7. Right front passenger door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
8. Front left driver side door handle feels loose (RESOLVED)
9. Rear left driver side door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
10. Rear bumper shows signs of rust (PENDING)
11. Step rails extremely corrosive/rusted out (RESOLVED)
12. 18 inch driver side windshield crack (RESOLVED)
13. Oil needs changed (RESOLVED)
14. Explorer "leans" slightly, suspension feels everything in the road, everything (RESOLVED)
15. Needs a new air filter (RESOLVED)
16. Needs new spark plugs (PENDING)
17. Low RPM metal rattle near the rear of the truck, sounds like an exhaust problem, perhaps the catalytic converter (RESOLVED)
18. Antenna is falling apart (PENDING)
19. Light behind the odometer is out (RESOLVED)
20. New shocks/struts (RESOLVED)
21. Left speaker does not work (PENDING)
22. Overhead Console Broken (RESOLVED)
23. Center console latch tab broken/not working (PENDING)
24. Burnt out license plate bulb (RESOLVED)
25. Installed LED's in cluster, license plate, and glovebox (EXTRA)
26. Installed new upper and lower intake manifold gaskets (EXTRA)
27. Paint undercarriage for rust protection (PENDING)
28. Find a grey door handle trim piece for left rear passenger handle (PENDING)
29. Install new spark plug wires (PENDING)
30. Install new fuel filter (PENDING)
31. Possibly refinish allow wheels gunmetal grey (PENDING)
32. Install new lift support struts for the front hood (PENDING)

Anyone interested in buying this restored beast when I'm done with it next month? :) How often does an Explorer get work done by a neurologist in training? LOL.
 
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429CJ-3X2

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'01 & '02 Sport Tracs,
You've made a lot of progress!
 
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NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
I have an opportunity to purchase 4 325/70/17 tires with no rims for $115 dollars. They have approximately 50% tread, no holes, punctures, etc.

A) Is this a good deal?
B) Does it make sense to purchase these now, and use them later. . .
C) Would they fit after a 3" BL + TT/Shackles?
D) Buy them now, resale them for more . . . ?

Quick response, please. I only have 12 hours before my buddy is going to list them online.

Thanks!

Edit: He said the brand, but I cannot remember. Pretty sure he said "Country" something.
 
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71cutty455

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City, State
St. Louis, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 XLT 5.0 V8 AWD
I have an opportunity to purchase 4 325/70/17 tires with no rims for $115 dollars. They have approximately 50% tread, no holes, punctures, etc.

A) Is this a good deal?
B) Does it make sense to purchase these now, and use them later. . .
C) Would they fit after a 3" BL + TT/Shackles?
D) Buy them now, resale them for more . . . ?

Quick response, please. I only have 12 hours before my buddy is going to list them online.

Thanks!

Edit: He said the brand, but I cannot remember. Pretty sure he said "Country" something.

A) Yes it's a good deal, if that's $115 total for all 4 tires.
B) All depends on your plans but that's a good idea.
C) No, those tires are close to 35" tall, you'll need a lot more than a BL/TT
D) I think you could make a decent profit flipping them.
 
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NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
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City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Review to date:

1. Poor tires (RESOLVED)
2. Oxidized headlamps (RESOLVED)
3. Ineffective windshield wipers (RESOLVED)
4. Weak 9007 bulbs (RESOLVED)
5. CD/Radio randomly turns off or on; CD player does not work (RESOLVED) Installed a mint 2005 Ford Escape 6CD Changer OEM Radio
6. Center arm console extremely worn (RESOLVED)
7. Right front passenger door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
8. Front left driver side door handle feels loose (RESOLVED)
9. Rear left driver side door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
10. Rear bumper shows signs of rust (RESOLVED)
11. Step rails extremely corrosive/rusted out (RESOLVED)
12. 18 inch driver side windshield crack (RESOLVED)
13. Oil needs changed (RESOLVED)
14. Explorer "leans" slightly, suspension feels everything in the road, everything (RESOLVED)
15. Needs a new air filter (RESOLVED)
16. Needs new spark plugs (PENDING)
17. Low RPM metal rattle near the rear of the truck, sounds like an exhaust problem, perhaps the catalytic converter (RESOLVED)
18. Antenna is falling apart (PENDING)
19. Light behind the odometer is out (RESOLVED)
20. New shocks/struts (RESOLVED)
21. Left speaker does not work (PENDING)
22. Overhead Console Broken (RESOLVED)
23. Center console latch tab broken/not working (RESOLVED) Installed a new lid with both tabs as well as two new functional latches. Works like new!
24. Burnt out license plate bulb (RESOLVED)
25. Installed LED's in cluster, license plate, and glovebox (EXTRA)
26. Installed new upper and lower intake manifold gaskets (EXTRA)
27. Paint undercarriage for rust protection (PENDING)
28. Find a grey door handle trim piece for left rear passenger handle (RESOLVED) Finally found a dark grey piece!
29. Install new spark plug wires (PENDING)
30. Install new fuel filter (PENDING)
31. Possibly refinish allow wheels gunmetal grey (PENDING)
32. Install new lift support struts for the front hood (RESOLVED)
33. Installed new ON/OFF cruise control button. (RESOLVED)
34. Installed new IAC, PVC valve, and MAF sensor. (RESOLVED)
 
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NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Refinished bumper:

Before_and_After_Bumper.jpg


Note, I trimmed the plastic cover so it is easier to remove next time.​

New lid, latches, and decided to "flip" internal oem foam. I think it gives it a more updated look than the round edge:​

Console.jpg

New Ford Escape CD -6 Radio:​

New_Radio.jpg
 
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ozmedia

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Emissions details in Vancouver, and a few tricks

our test is a prong in the tail pipe and they only plug into the computer if the cel is on.

good luck hope you get a pass!

When I went back to school at BCIT's Ford shop for enhanced Ford diagnostic testing, we went to the brand new AirCare head office (used to be next to BCIT) to see how the facility regulates samples through the day so that all testing stations were somewhat similar anyway.
For vehicles 1998 and newer they will plug into the diagnostic link connector (OBDII) and read A) readiness tests (O2 sensors) Cats etc. if more than one shows incomplete, they will not continue testing. If they show complete, they will run a code test to look for existing and pending codes (they don't always trigger a CEL right away).

1992 to 1997 they do an IM240 test, which is the tailpipe emissions test.

If you have a newer vehicle and have modded it, you can get special permission to run an IM240 test as the OBDII system can show errors while tailpipe emissions are still within spec.
If you have a check engine light on and have done the repair, it usually takes two to three drive cycles before it resets itself. Resetting it by disconnecting battery or even with a diagnostic tool, will require a certain amount of driving under varied drive loads and speeds to reset all the tests before you can run it through. If the problem it NOT fixed, the light will come back on before emissions readiness is complete. That's why they fail you right away. There is a specific drive procedure for resetting the readiness tests but it's no easier than just driving around for a week. I usually run the Hwy and hold at various speeds in 10kmh increments, then up to Seymour or Grouse, then a day or two or city driving gets the job done.

My AirCare luckout:
I ran through testing with a bad cat last time, knowing I could get 6 months to replace it, but I was the last car in, they wanted me to come back but I bitched about waiting 45 mins in line already. They groaned because computers were all shut down and samples sent back to head office. Not my problem, they should have noticed another car waiting in line. So they tried to test but couldn't get the systems back online. In the end they got approval to do a 5 second idle test, which I passed with all 0 readings. This only gives you one year though and I had paid for a 2 year/IM240 test. So they had the owner adjust the pas the next day and now their computer gave me two years ! YAY!

I have since thrown a new cat in for $84 (I get my discount from Ford) but hopefully they still decide to ditch AirCare in December, though they are now talking about extending it again. :(

One trick: if you have a friend who lives out of town, register it at his/her address or put registration in his/her name, no more AirCare.

Another trick: Find a clueless Autoplan agent, there's plenty of them, and say you carry a tool box in the back or use it for hauling and it's almost always over 5100lbs loaded. This way they will classify it as am overweight truck and you don't have to AirCare it. Insurance will cost about $200 more per year though, but balanced over 12 withdrawals it is easily managed.

Pick-A-Part in Chilliwack is a dream for older Explorer parts too! Easily accessed, nice yard and dirt cheap, especially compared to Ralphs etc. PAP has an online inventory of vehicles so you can see what's in the yard before driving out, get the cheap gas too while in the Valley, pays for the ride out and back! Okay I'll stop typing now.

P.S. Sorry, somewhere in this long thread I read Vancouver AirCare I thought it was you. Oh well, may help somebody someday.
 
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ozmedia

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Purchased 20 LED bulbs for $6. . . here are the results so far:

DSCN1610.jpg

DSCN1605.jpg

Looks way better in person, the picture here makes it seem like it is blinding . . .
DSCN1612.jpg


What do you guys think? Good mod?

WOW an empty glove box, THAT'S what they look like!! I have the original owners manual, and about 300 gas receipts in mine. Once a year, tax time, it is cleaned out but doesn't take long before you crack it a half inch and poke the next receipt in it then slam it shut before ~ SPROING!! ~ and all hell breaks loose. I don't even keep insurance papers in there, just in case I need them :D
 
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NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
WOW an empty glove box, THAT'S what they look like!! I have the original owners manual, and about 300 gas receipts in mine. Once a year, tax time, it is cleaned out but doesn't take long before you crack it a half inch and poke the next receipt in it then slam it shut before ~ SPROING!! ~ and all hell breaks loose. I don't even keep insurance papers in there, just in case I need them :D

For a moment I thought you were giving me a hard time. The glovebox is pretty small, but the door box near your feet is perfect for a handgun.
 
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NeuroResid

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Can anyone suggest possible suspension maintenance from the photos below? Thanks.

Driver_Side_2.jpg

Driver_Side_3.jpg

Driver_Side_4.jpg

Pass_Front_2.jpg

Pass_Front_3.jpg

Pass_Front.jpg



I'm thinking new sway bar bushings and sway bar link+bushings?
 
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1998Exp

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Don't know about suspension, but your photos show an obvious coolant leak from the bottom end of the lower radiator hose. Could be a loose clamp, but if it's the original hose, it's time has come. Just in case you did not notice...
Can anyone suggest possible suspension maintenance from the photos below? Thanks.
 
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NeuroResid

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Don't know about suspension, but your photos show an obvious coolant leak from the bottom end of the lower radiator hose. Could be a loose clamp, but if it's the original hose, it's time has come. Just in case you did not notice...

Thanks, man. I'm aware. I posted a separate thread for this. I spilled coolant while filling up both the radiator and res. tank. However, I have a huge leak near/behind the thermostat which leaks directly below:

Coolant_Leak.jpg


I've checked all the hoses near the radiator. I'm pretty sure the leak is from the lower thermostat housing . . . it looks pretty wet back here, which is directly above the area where it drips below, as depicted from the picture above.

Here is where I'm pretty sure the leak is coming from: (poor photo)

Leak_Pool.jpg

Or, it could be my head gasket? Seems pretty wet:
Possible_Gasket_Leak.jpg
 
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koda2000

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could be a leaking plastic radiator end tank (very common). remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the black plastic cover from the bottom of the radiator to get a better view. if it is an end-tank leaking you'll need to replace the rad. i got one from Auto Parts Warehouse for around $130 last year. it fit like O.E. and has been working fine. joedirt has an excellent STICKY on how to replace it. not that hard, just tricky if you don't know how.
 
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NeuroResid

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1999 Ford Explorer XLT
could be a leaking plastic radiator end tank (very common). remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the black plastic cover from the bottom of the radiator to get a better view. if it is an end-tank leaking you'll need to replace the rad. i got one from Auto Parts Warehouse for around $130 last year. it fit like O.E. and has been working fine. joedirt has an excellent STICKY on how to replace it. not that hard, just tricky if you don't know how.

Thanks. I definitely need to do this before the Texas heat. . . :usa:

Did you get your LED bulbs? If so, have you installed any of them?
 
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ozmedia

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For a moment I thought you were giving me a hard time. The glovebox is pretty small, but the door box near your feet is perfect for a handgun.

I was honestly blown away at seeing an empty glove box. As for the handgun, have absolutely no need for one where I live.
 
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koda2000

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Thanks. I definitely need to do this before the Texas heat. . . :usa:

Did you get your LED bulbs? If so, have you installed any of them?

yes i did receive the LED bulbs. i haven't had a chance to play with them yet. i really don't see how the guy can sell them so cheap. you'd think the shipping alone from China would be more than the cost of the bulbs, but i figured for $6 it is worth the gamble.
 
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NeuroResid

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City, State
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21. Left speaker does not work (RESOLVED)
 
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