Walking Dead - 1999 Explorer 4x4 XLT (174K) - PICS | Page 7 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free! This box and some ads will disappear once registered!

Walking Dead - 1999 Explorer 4x4 XLT (174K) - PICS

NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Thanks, guys. The car isn't here in the driveway to confirm, but I want to order this asap! How much does it cost, generally, to weld a muffler and install new tailpipe?
 
<

Join the Elite Explorers $20 Gets rid of the ads!

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.




BobbyTang

Active Member
Joined
October 17, 2013
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
City, State
1999 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC
Year, Model & Trim Level
Wannabe Mechanic
That's a good score, paid 1500$ for my 99 Explorer XLT which was great, it runs, did an oil change, new filter, new air filter, changed some bulbs, fixed front fog light and replaced a relay under the air intake to get front washer pump to spray. Basically it works, has 278,000km on it, the roads out here are riddled with potholes and as much as I would like to think it is the roads, it probably isn't, it dives when I suddenly brake, and feels a bit bouncy when roads get a little rough, (built up ice, potholes, etc) there is a definite metal almost grinding noise, faint but still there, found out theres a leak in the rear differential and topped it up with the appropriate oil... Just for got to put the friction modifier in.. Was hoping to keep it greased until I have time to change the gasket. But there's still some sort of humm as you accelerate in it. I was told by a mechanic that the front left wheel has some play to it and that the hub and bearing assembly needs to be replaced, said it wasn't bad but wanted 800$ for the job... I basically ####ed on out of there. Thinking I might be able to do it for less... I'm also drawing the 171+174 error code combo, my guess is a dead sensor or a vacuum leak... Anybody got any thoughts on some of these issues? Even to lead me in the right direction?? Thanks for reading!! I want to get this bad boy driving a bit softer as there have been times where doing 60km/h and hit a pothole and I believe had "wheel hop" which caused my ass end to end up in the lane next to me...
 
<



BobbyTang

Active Member
Joined
October 17, 2013
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
City, State
1999 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC
Year, Model & Trim Level
Wannabe Mechanic
From the photos your exhaust looks intact still, mine hung lower when I had two hangers bust, which rattled like a bastard when idling.
 
<



BobbyTang

Active Member
Joined
October 17, 2013
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
City, State
1999 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC
Year, Model & Trim Level
Wannabe Mechanic
Mine are actually oxidized on the outside.
They used to be yellow, the wet sanding fixed that. But now they have a white haze. I sanded them for hours, used a proper sealer. Even tried professional polishes that I use on my paint. Nothing, no luck.
If I can find a set of those aftermarket project housings for a good price, I think I'll get them.

Buddy of mine tried the same thing on his wife's car, same thing, I am not sure but it might just be the fact that you are sanding plastic. Afterwards it hazes as you can't keep the clear "wet look"... I bought the turtle wax kit to try on mine ... I figure there higher the grit the better but it might all come down to the clear coat as well...

On a side note have you tried using Colgate? There is a video of some guy using Colgate toothpaste on his yellow oxidized headlights, he puts a blob on a soft cloth/paper towel and rubs it on in a small circular motions and eventually he just buffs it off with a soft cloth and rinses, look like it damn near removed all the yellow... Try it, can't hurt now since they are already fogged up
 
<



DjDom

Moderator Emeritus
Joined
September 11, 2011
Messages
2,609
Reaction score
5
City, State
Toronto, Ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XL(imited)
Buddy of mine tried the same thing on his wife's car, same thing, I am not sure but it might just be the fact that you are sanding plastic. Afterwards it hazes as you can't keep the clear "wet look"... I bought the turtle wax kit to try on mine ... I figure there higher the grit the better but it might all come down to the clear coat as well...

On a side note have you tried using Colgate? There is a video of some guy using Colgate toothpaste on his yellow oxidized headlights, he puts a blob on a soft cloth/paper towel and rubs it on in a small circular motions and eventually he just buffs it off with a soft cloth and rinses, look like it damn near removed all the yellow... Try it, can't hurt now since they are already fogged up

I've tried it all. Lol.
A few different kits now, toothpaste.. nothing works.
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Averaged 14.2 MPG (70% city) this recent fuel up. Just picked up a new AEM Brute Force Intake for approx. $125 dollars. Will post pictures soon.

Anyone in the DFW area interested in earning a few beers, steaks, and fellowship? I need help changing the spark plugs (I know, stupid), but I don't have a jack to remove the front tire, nor the proper parts. Plus, I'm pretty confident the plugs and wires are original. I have new wires and plugs ready to go. . . PM if you're interested.

I've been quoted $100-$300 dollars just for labor!
 
<



koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
thanks for the info. i just purchased a set of 20 from the seller for $6.92 w/free shipping. unbelievable price! i'll replace a few easy ones and save the rest for when i'm feeling more ambitious.

Update: i finally got around to installing some of the LED bulbs. did the glove box and puddle lights and they work/look great. then i tried to do the rear tag lights, which i can't get to work reliably. the sockets don't grip the bulbs in such a way that the bulb's wires make good contact. i played with this for about 30 minutes and tried squeezing the sockets with pliers and trying to bend the brass contacts, but even when i find a position where the bulbs stay lit i'm afraid that, with the shock if closing the lift-gate, contact will be lost. there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with my sockets, so i'm going to have to think about this for a bit. with the effort required to change the cluster bulbs, i'm hesitant to try them there. no big deal for a $6.92 risk and i'll use half the bulbs even if i just do the glove box and puddles on 3 trucks.
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Decided to keep the Explorer stock. No new intake or exhaust.
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
It's been a while! Anyway, the Explorer rolled over 188,000 miles, thus I've put on approx. 14,000 miles!

Anyway, the temperature gauge switch kept grounding out. So, I took the whole upper and lower temperature housing with the gauges back to Autozone - exchanged everything for free. Also, I put a new water pump on it, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, spark plugs, and wires. Also, added new brake pads! Runs significantly better.

Degreased the engine too.

Here are a few items I need to fix:

1. Few LED bulbs behind dash keep flickering in and out.
2. Install front and rear tensioner.
3. Install new oil temperature switch.

Pictures to follow!
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Day 1: (174,XXX miles)

Front.jpg

Rusty_Bumper.jpg


Today:
image1.jpg

image3.jpg

image11.jpg

image18.jpg


Things I want to Fix:
image16.jpg

image17.jpg

image7.jpg

image14.jpg
 
<



ZWilson07

Elite Cowboy
Joined
July 24, 2009
Messages
569
Reaction score
8
City, State
Louisville, Kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer
Clean XLT.

UGHHH I want those gray fender flares, molding, and bumpers for mine.


Jealous at the price you got. For reference that would be a good 3-4k vehicle here in KY all day long.

I paid like 1500 for my XLT with tons of problems and that was a pretty standard rate.
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
Clean XLT.

UGHHH I want those gray fender flares, molding, and bumpers for mine.


Jealous at the price you got. For reference that would be a good 3-4k vehicle here in KY all day long.

I paid like 1500 for my XLT with tons of problems and that was a pretty standard rate.

The front bumper cover needs a touch up, and the rear bumper is pretty much rusted out. I did paint it, but I'm on the lookout for a new rear grey bumper.

I'm also looking for a newish tropic green hood and black window trim (slight hail damage, otherwise not noticeable).

If I find extra fenders at the pick-and-pull I'll talk a quick photo for you. Super cheap.
 
<



koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
The front bumper cover needs a touch up, and the rear bumper is pretty much rusted out. I did paint it, but I'm on the lookout for a new rear grey bumper.

I'm also looking for a newish tropic green hood and black window trim (slight hail damage, otherwise not noticeable).

If I find extra fenders at the pick-and-pull I'll talk a quick photo for you. Super cheap.

what do you mean by "back window trim"? I have an extra set of the black plastic trim that goes on the sides if that's what you're referring to.
 
<



NeuroResid

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2013
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
City, State
Dallas, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
what do you mean by "back window trim"? I have an extra set of the black plastic trim that goes on the sides if that's what you're referring to.

The second to last picture is what I'm referencing. The black metal limp below the driver side window has slight dents from minimal hail damage. I've seen a tutorial floating around here where a guy changed his out - looked pretty easy.

My wife thinks I'm crazy, but little things like this get to me.
 
<



koda2000

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 2, 2011
Messages
13,852
Reaction score
1,502
Year, Model & Trim Level
x
oh, okay. yes they're easy to remove. one nut at rear as I recall.
 
<



ZWilson07

Elite Cowboy
Joined
July 24, 2009
Messages
569
Reaction score
8
City, State
Louisville, Kentucky
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer
The front bumper cover needs a touch up, and the rear bumper is pretty much rusted out. I did paint it, but I'm on the lookout for a new rear grey bumper.

I'm also looking for a newish tropic green hood and black window trim (slight hail damage, otherwise not noticeable).

If I find extra fenders at the pick-and-pull I'll talk a quick photo for you. Super cheap.


Thank you I would really appreciate it.
 
<



Top