Walking Dead - 1999 Explorer 4x4 XLT (174K) - PICS

[DjDom]

If you want to fix the rear ride height, if it's sagging, look up the Monroe Sensatrac Load Adjust shocks for the rear. They are a shock with a spring to help support weight.

Also, please tell me how you got those head light lenses so clean..

 

[NeuroResid]

If you want to fix the rear ride height, if it's sagging, look up the Monroe Sensatrac Load Adjust shocks for the rear. They are a shock with a spring to help support weight.

Also, please tell me how you got those head light lenses so clean..

Project cost less than $17 dollars.

1. Soak the following paper(s) in water.
2. Maintain water on the headlight at all times while applying abrasive.
3. Start with the 800-1000 pad, followed by the 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit paper.
4. Seal with spar urethane via brush.
5. Enjoy

Here are a few snapshots of the products I picked up at the area part store:

Project cost me less than 17 dollars.

Then, seal with spar urethane and brush.

 

[NeuroResid]

Although I do not have any affiliation, or endorse this website explicitly, I found a free online website where persons can download repair manuals and service manuals for their Ford Explorer: Ford Explorer Manuals

 

[DjDom]

Project cost less than $17 dollars.

1. Soak the following paper(s) in water.
2. Maintain water on the headlight at all times while applying abrasive.
3. Start with the 800-1000 pad, followed by the 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit paper.
4. Seal with spar urethane via brush.
5. Enjoy

Here are a few snapshots of the products I picked up at the area part store:

Project cost me less than 17 dollars.

Then, seal with spar urethane and brush.

Yeah.. I've tried wet sanding mine. Didn't work. I've tried so many different kits too.
Thinking bout just swapping for new headlamps.

 

[NeuroResid]

Yeah.. I've tried wet sanding mine. Didn't work. I've tried so many different kits too.
Thinking bout just swapping for new headlamps.

I'm sure you're pretty skilled with automotive things, but I don't understand how it didn't work... The key is the last part... did you seal it properly, thus giving it the permanent "wet" look? Most compounds/kits do not do this effectively. Urethane/Water 1:1 did gave me a lasting finish. Sorry to hear that, man.

But, for roughly $40 bucks, new lamps might be worth it!

 

[Torqueranger]

I'm sure you're pretty skilled with automotive things, but I don't understand how it didn't work... The key is the last part... did you seal it properly, thus giving it the permanent "wet" look? Most compounds/kits do not do this effectively. Urethane/Water 1:1 did gave me a lasting finish. Sorry to hear that, man.

But, for roughly $40 bucks, new lamps might be worth it!

Sometimes the yellow is on the inside of the headlight and they can be fixed but must be disassemble in order to get on the inside ...

 

[DjDom]

I'm sure you're pretty skilled with automotive things, but I don't understand how it didn't work... The key is the last part... did you seal it properly, thus giving it the permanent "wet" look? Most compounds/kits do not do this effectively. Urethane/Water 1:1 did gave me a lasting finish. Sorry to hear that, man.

But, for roughly $40 bucks, new lamps might be worth it!

Mine are actually oxidized on the outside.
They used to be yellow, the wet sanding fixed that. But now they have a white haze. I sanded them for hours, used a proper sealer. Even tried professional polishes that I use on my paint. Nothing, no luck.
If I can find a set of those aftermarket project housings for a good price, I think I'll get them.

 

[masospaghetti]

I'm in Australia, I'm sure the Gabriels we get here are imported from the US but the Monroes might be made locally or more recently made in China.
They're all rubbish.
Get KYB at the least but preferably Bilstein, you won't regret it.

I personally like the Sensatracs, especially the load leveling ones for the rear with the built in helper spring. All of the Monroe parts I have purchased here in the states are USA made.

I did not like the Reflex shocks I had on my other Explorer though, it was way too stiff.

 

[NeuroResid]

Fixed the right front door. The actuator rivet was sheared. Replaced it with a bolt and nut, followed by lubricant throughout. Works perfect now, also installed a new interior handle.

Found the pad code in the rear.

 

[NeuroResid]

Windshield replacement today. $100 for new parts, labor, and OEM quality seal. Will post pics later.

 

[NeuroResid]

New windshield put in today; $100 flat after tax - OEM, new trim, and sealed with U-428 Dow Automotive urethane!

 

[J_C]

Mine are actually oxidized on the outside.
They used to be yellow, the wet sanding fixed that. But now they have a white haze. I sanded them for hours, used a proper sealer. Even tried professional polishes that I use on my paint. Nothing, no luck.
If I can find a set of those aftermarket project housings for a good price, I think I'll get them.

A "proper sealer" is not always necessary. Some say it slows down further UV damage, but if that matters has a lot to do with how complicated a person makes the touch-up. I just repolish mine once a year with Novus #2 then #1 plastic polish for a few minutes and no sealant, but I never let them get really bad in the first place so maybe that makes a difference.

The white haze should be removable with a fine grit plastic polish, not sandpaper. Do not use power tools as the high speed can create heat, ideally you want the plastic cold as-in doing the work in spring, fall or winter as the harder the plastic is at the time the better it will polish. Work on one for a while then switch to the other, then back to the first for a while if necessary.

 

[DjDom]

A "proper sealer" is not always necessary. Some say it slows down further UV damage, but if that matters has a lot to do with how complicated a person makes the touch-up. I just repolish mine once a year with Novus #2 then #1 plastic polish for a few minutes and no sealant, but I never let them get really bad in the first place so maybe that makes a difference.

The white haze should be removable with a fine grit plastic polish, not sandpaper. Do not use power tools as the high speed can create heat, ideally you want the plastic cold as-in doing the work in spring, fall or winter as the harder the plastic is at the time the better it will polish. Work on one for a while then switch to the other, then back to the first for a while if necessary.

Actually, Polish works best when applied with a power tool. As long as you know what you're doing.
I got my orbital polisher out yesterday and gave it a try. Got the lights looking much better than they were. Not 100%, but close.
Still has some haze, but they look/are much clearer.

I guess the turtle wax sanding kit worked, and then I just gotta use Polish every 2-3 months..

 

[J_C]

^ Polish works faster when applied with a power tool, but not necessarily better when dealing with amorphous plastics which tend to develop micro-melt sites instead of crystaline sheering if heat isn't kept to an absolute minimum.

You can use low speed and move the tool around a lot but for the final pass it is best to keep the abrasion rate as low as your patience will allow.

 

[koda2000]

jmo... instead of fooling around with trying to restore oxidized plastic, i'd rather just replace the headlight assemblies. new ones aren't that expensive (eg: <$20 on RockAuto) and i find that no matter what i've tried, the old ones start looking shabby w/in a month or two. i've got better things to do with my time. again, jmo.

 

[NeuroResid]

Hey, guys. Do you think TT and shackles would look odd with these new tires? I want a little bit of a lift, but nothing too extreme. The new tires are 255/70/16.

 

[Juggernaut31]

DJ, actually after i wet sand with, 800, 1000, 1500, rinsing well between each coat, then i use polishing compound, with either a orbital sander, or a drill with a polishing wheel attached. they come out looking crystal clear, i have done more than 10 sets for people at work. you can then use "quick detailer" after to repel bugs rain, etc. and i usually add a little quick detailer to them about once a month, keeps em clear.

 

[NeuroResid]

Review to date:

1. Poor tires (RESOLVED)
2. Oxidized headlamps (RESOLVED)
3. Ineffective windshield wipers (RESOLVED)
4. Weak 9007 bulbs
5. CD/Radio randomly turns off or on; CD player does not work
6. Center arm console extremely worn
7. Right front passenger door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
8. Front left driver side door handle feels loose (RESOLVED)
9. Rear left driver side door does not open or close, period (RESOLVED)
10. Rear bumper shows signs of rust
11. Step rails extremely corrosive/rusted out (RESOLVED)
12. 18 inch driver side windshield crack (RESOLVED)
13. Oil needs changed
14. Explorer "leans" slightly, suspension feels everything in the road, everything
15. Needs a new air filter (RESOLVED)
16. Needs new spark plugs
17. Low RPM metal rattle near the rear of the truck, sounds like an exhaust problem, perhaps the catalytic converter (RESOLVED)
18. Antenna is falling apart
19. Light behind the odometer is out
20. New shocks/struts

 

[NeuroResid]

21. Left speaker does not work
22. Overhead Console Broken - (RESOLVED)

Man, I had no idea how many little things were wrong with the Shrek - no wonder it was free! My wife thinks I should list it on Craigslist when I'm done, haha. Slowly getting back to perfection! How much is this thing worth, anyways?

 

[koda2000]

values vary depending on where you live. in Atlanta area private sale in good condition with good rubber maybe $1500-2000, maybe a bit more.