Want to modify 2000 Explorer XLT 5.0 (53K miles)

[gj314]

Wondering what kinda of easy/essential modifications I should do first with this 2000 with 53,000 miles. It has the V8, but I don’t know where to start in terms of initial modifications. I know I need to do something about the shocks because they are really bad, and the power steering, which makes weird sounds and vibrates aggressively when turned all the way to any direction.

 

[J_C]

Where is it lacking to do "mods"?

Replacing shocks at 53K, I wouldn't consider a mod, just normal maintenance.

Normal maintenance is what I would tackle first, have you owned it for a while or a new owner?

The steering could have air in the system but what is this "vibrates aggressively", is this a sound or steering wheel feedback, or shudder in motion, or ??

 

[gj314]

Where is it lacking to do "mods"?

Replacing shocks at 53K, I wouldn't consider a mod, just normal maintenance.

Normal maintenance is what I would tackle first, have you owned it for a while or a new owner?

The steering could have air in the system but what is this "vibrates aggressively", is this a sound or steering wheel feedback, or shudder in motion, or ??

New owner. I’m also interested in lowering it slightly. The steering wheel/steering unit, once you turn all the way to a direction, sounds like it’s making a little vibration sound with a tapping that can be felt through the steering wheel, and it feels like it’s not good for the car, even though having the steering wheel turned as far as it will go shouldn’t really be bad. At this mileage, what are some important basic maintenance things I should look at first for a 2000 XLT? Thanks.

 

[J_C]

There is almost no maintenance interval for 53K but age could be a variable, for example if it was short-tripped, accounting for such low mileage, many things that normally have a higher service interval could be considered.

Starting with the basics, I would pull the spark plugs, not necessarily because they're worn out, but rather that if you leave something like that for 20 years, it could be a corrosion issue. Same for anything really, check every subsystem rated for mileage based on their assumption you'd have over 200K mi by now. Most of that won't need done, and obviously buying a used older vehicle you don't want to waste money, so for now I would mostly focus on repair and wait on maintenance at at later mileage interval - EXCEPT, if you don't know how the prior owner treated it, then it is good to replace/maintain fluids so you have a baseline of when it was last done (if prior owner does not have documentation about it).

 

[decipha]

x2 what JC said, maintenance first except transmission

air filter
fuel filter
plugs
wires
oil and filter
rear dif fluid
pcv valve
belts hoses vac lines
flush p/s and then replace power steering high pressure line
flush brake lines and replace iwth fresh dot4 fluid
do brakes if needed, turn rotors etc...
repack wheel bearings
all bushings ball joints tie rods etc...
slap on new tires if needed and then do an alignment
put new ecu relay and fuel pump relay in her

then rip the trans out and swap the torque converter with a 3200 stall unit, pick your poison for the manufacturer
you'll need a new flexplate (I like prw) with the smaller 10.625 pattern and new arp flexplate bolts
change the trans filter while you have her out

You'll need a moates quarterhorse so you can adjust your torque converter clutch lock up and slip so it doesn't slip over 2000 rpm and drives just like stock again for normal driving and as an added benefit you get better MPGs. Go to the www.efidynotuning.com forum and you can request the file for your truck already modified.

With that little mileage its a good idea to change your fuel pump regardless. Check out treperformance for cheap 255lph pumps.

AND THATS IT! DO NOT DO ANY OTHER MODIFICATIONS TO THE TRUCK.

Now when you want more you'll need to fab up a turbo kit. You can buy a cheap on3 turbo kit and modify it to fit your truck. 12lbs on the stock engine will put you just over 400rwhp safely. You'll need 42lb injectors minimum (best bet is siemens deka 80s from chris at poweaddersolutions) and toss on a larger maf. A PMAS HPX-E slot maf from nick over at pmas would be the best option.

 

[gj314]

There is almost no maintenance interval for 53K but age could be a variable, for example if it was short-tripped, accounting for such low mileage, many things that normally have a higher service interval could be considered.

Starting with the basics, I would pull the spark plugs, not necessarily because they're worn out, but rather that if you leave something like that for 20 years, it could be a corrosion issue. Same for anything really, check every subsystem rated for mileage based on their assumption you'd have over 200K mi by now. Most of that won't need done, and obviously buying a used older vehicle you don't want to waste money, so for now I would mostly focus on repair and wait on maintenance at at later mileage interval - EXCEPT, if you don't know how the prior owner treated it, then it is good to replace/maintain fluids so you have a baseline of when it was last done (if prior owner does not have documentation about it).

I didn’t buy this truck, it was given to me for free by my grandparents who used it very lightly in Florida. Bringing it back to Rhode Island, so I was thinking of maybe doing a couple of things to make it drive and look a little nicer, that’s all.

 

[koda2000]

Having owned four 5.0L Explorers/Mountaineers, finding one with only 53K on it I wouldn't "modify" anything. Do fluid and filter changes and general maintenance items for piece of mind, lower it a bit if you must (I wouldn't) and drive it. It should have around 250K + miles left in it. The look of the Gen II's is now pretty dated and while I like the look, there's not a lot you can do to make it look better.

The truck weights around 4,000 pounds and despite have the 5.0L V8 it's no hot rod and unless you want to put a blower on it performance is okay, but it's not a 5.0L Mustang.

 

[gj314]

Having owned four 5.0L Explorers/Mountaineers, finding one with only 53K on it I wouldn't "modify" anything. Do fluid and filter changes and general maintenance items for piece of mind, lower it a bit if you must (I wouldn't) and drive it. It should have around 250K + miles left in it. The look of the Gen II's is now pretty dated and while I like the look, there's not a lot you can do to make it look better.

The truck weights around 4,000 pounds and despite have the 5.0L V8 it's no hot rod and unless you want to put a blower on it performance is okay, but it's not a 5.0L Mustang.

Ok, sounds good. I’m going to be lowering just a bit, just maybe 1-2” I also need new shocks, any that you would recommend that aren’t super expensive and would do fine with a little lowered truck?

 

[koda2000]

Ok, sounds good. I’m going to be lowering just a bit, just maybe 1-2” I also need new shocks, any that you would recommend that aren’t super expensive and would do fine with a little lowered truck?

I like the KYB Gas-Adjust's for general ride comfort and control, but there are other choices (eg: Monroe, Rancho), some are better depending on your intended usage. The 4-doors have a rear dif stabilizer (AKA the fifth shock) which you might also want to replace.

As far as shock length, shocks are supposed to sit in roughly the center of their travel. if you lower your truck 2" it might be best to use a shock length that's 2" shorter, but as I've never done this mod I'll leave it to the people who have to give their advice/opinion. You don't want to bottom-out the shocks at full compression, which can damage the shock.

 

[J_C]

I wouldn't lower it. Driving one of these you're sacrificing handling and fuel economy to have a full frame truck. Lowering 1-2" won't help handling THAT much but will take away some from the load capacity and ground clearance.

Ground clearance could be an issue even if not taking it off road, considering there is snow in RI, unless it is only RWD so not suited for snow? If only RWD, I would sell it and get something at least FWD if not 4WD or AWD, or dedicate use to 3 seasons but not winter.

I guess I just never thought that lowering a truck looked good unless it is a show truck, not for regular use.

There are things you can do to change appearance, just depends on what you want it to look like.

You could black it out, even if the body color isn't black. You could get rid of chrome trim or front grill (silver if not faded by now?) and color match the body. You could delete the running boards. You could delete the roof rack. You could cut out the entire roof and put in a roll bar to make it a convertible, or split the difference and cut a huge hole in the roof and put a polycarbonate sunroof panel in it.

Personally, I would just wash and wax it and put some silicone dressing on all the door and hatch gaskets, touch up any paint that is faded on things like wiper arms, roof rack, front grill, then look at whether there is any rust areas that need repaired like rocker panels and rear quarter dog legs.

Improving driving characteristics also depends on what you're going for. It will never ride both smooth and well controlled. You can replace any worn suspension components to tighten up the ride a bit and improve safety if any are due for replacement, but otherwise to whatever extent you improve handling you will make the ride rougher. This includes the choice of which shocks to install, replacement tire type and size, moving to polyurethane sway bar bushings and links.

 

[gj314]

I wouldn't lower it. Driving one of these you're sacrificing handling and fuel economy to have a full frame truck. Lowering 1-2" won't help handling THAT much but will take away some from the load capacity and ground clearance.

Ground clearance could be an issue even if not taking it off road, considering there is snow in RI, unless it is only RWD so not suited for snow? If only RWD, I would sell it and get something at least FWD if not 4WD or AWD, or dedicate use to 3 seasons but not winter.

I guess I just never thought that lowering a truck looked good unless it is a show truck, not for regular use.

There are things you can do to change appearance, just depends on what you want it to look like.

You could black it out, even if the body color isn't black. You could get rid of chrome trim or front grill (silver if not faded by now?) and color match the body. You could delete the running boards. You could delete the roof rack. You could cut out the entire roof and put in a roll bar to make it a convertible, or split the difference and cut a huge hole in the roof and put a polycarbonate sunroof panel in it.

Personally, I would just wash and wax it and put some silicone dressing on all the door and hatch gaskets, touch up any paint that is faded on things like wiper arms, roof rack, front grill, then look at whether there is any rust areas that need repaired like rocker panels and rear quarter dog legs.

Improving driving characteristics also depends on what you're going for. It will never ride both smooth and well controlled. You can replace any worn suspension components to tighten up the ride a bit and improve safety if any are due for replacement, but otherwise to whatever extent you improve handling you will make the ride rougher. This includes the choice of which shocks to install, replacement tire type and size, moving to polyurethane sway bar bushings and links.

Ok, so I’ve decided I won’t lower it. I’m going to do new shocks and new tires, any recommendations for tires? Also interested in blacking out some of the chrome, wondering if the big piece up front near headlights would be possible. Would I have to buy a new piece already black or would I remove and paint the existing part somehow? I attached a picture of how it looks right now (minus roof racks I already removed).

 

[koda2000]

Tire choice depends on your intended use and budget.

If your grille is chrome now, you'd probably do better to buy an unpainted grille (they're usually black to begin with) and paint it either gloss, or semi-gloss black with something like MAXX or Fusion spray paint for plastic, then install it. As it's black to begin with you wouldn't need to paint it if you don't want to, but it will probably look better painted. The paint won't stick well to the chrome.

 

[J_C]

You can paint the chrome grill, just need to sand the chrome off first. It's not a big deal with power tools but by hand, depends on how much you value your time/effort. If you're going to paint a new grill you might want to sand it anyway, just not as much, not needing to remove a whole layer (of faux-chrome).

Keep in mind that if going for black instead of dark gray (or lighter gray depending on how weathered it is), that black will be much darker than the bumper and running board trim. Some might paint those too but I've never been a fan of painting running board tread, tends to make it slicker unless it's some rubberized goop that looks like rubberized goop when on something with a pattern/texture.

Next you'd probably want to paint the bumper or else that chrome remains, (and that's still real chrome on an '00, yes? so a larger job than the grill by far to strip that chrome) and the rear quarter skirt... your truck, we really can't make these decisions. Know that paint won't last as long as leaving it as-is unless as-is is already unbearably weathered, but from what little we can see in the picture it looks good the way it is.

 

[gj314]

You can paint the chrome grill, just need to sand the chrome off first. It's not a big deal with power tools but by hand, depends on how much you value your time/effort. If you're going to paint a new grill you might want to sand it anyway, just not as much, not needing to remove a whole layer (of faux-chrome).

Keep in mind that if going for black instead of dark gray (or lighter gray depending on how weathered it is), that black will be much darker than the bumper and running board trim. Some might paint those too but I've never been a fan of painting running board tread, tends to make it slicker unless it's some rubberized goop that looks like rubberized goop when on something with a pattern/texture.

Next you'd probably want to paint the bumper or else that chrome remains, (and that's still real chrome on an '00, yes? so a larger job than the grill by far to strip that chrome) and the rear quarter skirt... your truck, we really can't make these decisions. Know that paint won't last as long as leaving it as-is unless as-is is already unbearably weathered, but from what little we can see in the picture it looks good the way it is.

Ok, I’ll probably leave it the way it looks because its pretty good now. Only thing I would need to try to fix is the front driver side bumper has a little nick in it and the plastic is slightly peeled back. You can kinda see if you zoom in on the picture. For tires, I feel like it would look better with tires slightly bigger than the ones on it now. I’m looking for all season, and probably the cheapest that won’t send me sliding off a bridge (sarcasm, but not trying to spend too much money). If anyone has recommendations for good budget tires I’m game.

 

[CDW6212R]

I just bought another set of Cooper tires, the newest Evolution HT, it was just on sale for $415 and a 10% rebate. So if you can be patient, you can find very good tires for about $100 each. The same seller wants $464 for them now, with no other discounts; 4 NEW 255/70-16 COOPER EVOLUTION HT 70R R16 TIRES 34371 29142889793 | eBay

You can lower the truck a little, but only if the alignment can be adjusted to work with that. Lowering or lifting alters the camber a lot, often it can't be aligned right when lowered or lifted much.

Bilstein makes about the best shocks for a bolt on application like these, off roading(lifting a lot) puts you into other brands with taller shocks made for the different range of travel. The Bilsteins used to be about $260-$270 for four, total. Good brands should cost at least say $40 each, check Rock Auto for comparisons.

Any older vehicle will have wear from simply age, not the mileage.

I just bought a 53k miles 92 Lincoln last year. The lower BJ's have dry rotted boots, which cannot be replaced. So I just ordered new BJ's, for a 53k mile car.

I'd replace all fluids, all coolant hoses, BJ's(boots are toast), all filters, and the plugs should be R&R'd too for sure. Watch for any brake pull or dragging, unused calipers often stick or drag, which at the best will eat pads.

Don't crank the steering wheel all the way one way or the other, reach the end and let off pressure(that's bad for the pump and rack). The PS fluid should be replaced anyway, so after that then decide if there is still an odd symptom.

Many of the 99-01 Explorers have a painted grille, the chrome became rare. Buy a used one and have it painted, altering chrome is a PITA, skip that. Find you a Saleen bumper, that would change the look a lot, if you could find one.

 

[koda2000]

My daughter is going to buy some Hercules Road Tour 455 tires from our local tire shop. They're made in U.S.A. free 2 year road hazard warranty, 50,000 mile wear warranty. I was quoted around $87 apiece. They used to be made by Copper, but I think someone else is making them now. They're rated for over 2000 lbs each, so they're suitable for the 4,000 lb Explorer. Customer reviews were good. She has 15" wheels (235/75/R15) on her Mountaineer, I don't know what other sizes may be available.

eBay example:
Hercules Tire 235/75R15 T ROADTOUR 455 All Season | eBay

 

[CDW6212R]

True, he's got 15's so those will be that 29" 235/75/15 size. He might like 16's better and move to a 30" tire which was stock in 99-01 16's(the 255/70/16 size).

I use 245/70/16's as a slight compromise, lower helps me and the cost is slightly less. I first tried a 255/65/16, but those were more rare and expensive. I liked them but the cost wasn't worth it.

 

[koda2000]

True, he's got 15's so those will be that 29" 235/75/15 size. He might like 16's better and move to a 30" tire which was stock in 99-01 16's(the 255/70/16 size).

I use 245/70/16's as a slight compromise, lower helps me and the cost is slightly less. I first tried a 255/65/16, but those were more rare and expensive. I liked them but the cost wasn't worth it.

Yeah, I have 16's on my Sport Trac and my Eddie Bauer. I put 255/70/16's on my Sport Trac. I got a set of 4 Fuzion tires for the Sport Trac. They're okay, though a rather truck 'ish looking tire. I also had them on my XLT. They tend to be a bit noisy around 35-40 MPH, but they wear pretty well. I think I paid around $460 for the set of 4, which wasn't too bad for the 16's. For my Eddie Bauer I don't know what I'll get. I have Michelin's on it now and they've worn extremely well xpensive though). I'd rather keep the price down, but I want a tire that gives a good ride and that wear well. I'd consider the Hercules 455's, but I don't think they're available in 255/70/16 size. I'll have to ask my tire shop. I know they'll cost more than the 15" tire size, but if I can find them for around $110 each that would be good for the type of driving I do.

 

[CDW6212R]

Watch that Cooper Evolution HT tire then. I got the 245's for $404, and then two days later wondered what the 255's were. That's when I saw the eBay 8% bucks deal, and a 10% rebate from Discount Tire. If I'd waited two days, I could have gotten about $73 back in credits. I think they will be good tires, so far Coopers are above average in all categories for me. Michelin's were only slightly better, but at $40-$60 more each, too much.

 

[GLOCKer]

OP! Your Explorer looks NICE!!!!