Warn manual hub questions

[93Expo4x4]

Hey guys I just picked up this explorer, and I'm doing front wheel bearings on it. It's got the warn manual hub conversion kit that has receipts from les Schwab putting them on, but while taking them apart it seems there isn't a locking key for the spindle nuts to stay tight? Am I missing something? Or is there not supposed to be a lock key. If anyone has any diagrams it would be much appreciated

 

[RangerX]

There is no separate piece like the auto hubs have. You should have two lock nuts that thread onto the spindle, with a lock washer in between them. That washer has a tab on the inside edge that fits in the spindle groove, to stop rotation of the nuts and washers.

Check this thread for all sorts of hub info, including how to reassemble, as it's different from auto hubs. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232754

Also, since I have the image saved on my computer, here's the best socket to use to remove and install the manual hub hardware. Totally worth finding and buying.

 

[93Expo4x4]

Sweet thanks! The only reason I asked was cause the spindle has the notch in it for the key. And all I pulled off was the outter lock nut, a washer and the inner lock nut. All hand tight. Know any torque specs for inner and outer?

 

[natenkiki2004]

From what I was told, it goes like this:

Spin the rotor while tightening the inner nut. Tighten firm (not wrenching on it with a breaker bar but 3/8" ratchet, maybe even with just your hand around the socket). Back off 1/4 of a turn. Grab the rotor and see if it's too sloppy and still spins with a small amount of resistance. Fit the lock ring on. Crank the **** out of the outer locknut.

I'm going from memory but I believe that's how I did it. It's been holding fine for a year, no issues. Basically, you need the bearings to have a slight amount of pressure on them. Not enough to prevent them from turning but enough to take up any slack. You'll get a feel for it, just remember to keep spinning the rotor. The outer one has torque spec but it's pretty much "as tight as you can get".

 

[RangerX]

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Winter2002/hubs.htm

 

[2stroke]

Yep, the idea is to hold the bearings in place without any slack, but without tension too. The book states to torque to 30 pounds to seat them, back off, then final torque to 16 inch pounds. The outer nut is 150 foot pounds. I also don't use a torque wrench half the time. I just finger tight, spin the hub some. Tighten the bearings good, back off, then just let the weight of the wrench set the final torque. For the outer nut I just get it good and tight.

 

[malohnes]

Many argue that the outer nut should be tightened past 150 lb/ft to 200 to prevent loosening, particularly with bigger tires or adventurous driving. Having recently rebuilt my entire front end, to the point of replacing spindles and hubs, I concur with those that suggest higher torquing on that outer nut. Also, double check it once or twice after you've locked it down to make sure it's tight.

 

[natenkiki2004]

For the outer nut I just get it good and tight.

I heard that was the german torque spec, roughly translated from gudentite.

 

[Travisfab]

I always do the outer as tight as I possibly can with a breaker bar