Water pump problem

[mysticclam]

I just replaced my waterpump, was putting in an electric fan and the old one was making a bit of noise when cold. Cooling system was working fine though.
I replaced the pump, with a rebuilt and now I have a problem. The temp gauge goes up, way past where it usually does, I shut it down at halfway, usually temp gauge doesnt go up past O in normal. The top radiator hose is cold and feels empty. (like no water is going through it) The top of the radiator near the top hose is cool but the bottom near the bottom hose is hot. Pretty much the whole drivers side is warm. The heater is blowing cold air and I know the engine warm cause I ran it long enough and under the hood is nice and warm. Is it possible they put the wrong direction impeller in this pump or is there a ford application that rotates the otherway and i got the wrong pump, or did my thermostat coincidentally get stuck closed while the pump change was going on. Also it makes a lot of gurgling noises when shut off, could it be air in the system? I would think that might make it work poorly, right now it doesnt work at all and Like I said, nothing is changed but the pump.

 

[FIND]

Sounds like there is air trapped in your system. If you have access to the a pressure tester, pressurize the system, then add more coolant. If you cannot do this, replace your thermostat, but wedge your T-stat open with an aspirin tablet. The plain chalky kind, it will dissolve harmlessly and allow coolant to circulate through eliminating air bubbles.

 

[Anime]

Might be a combo of an underfilled coolant system with air trapped in there, and the air is making it so the system doesnt pressurize correctly when at operating temp to open the thermostat.

I'd say first off get some 50/50 coolant/water mix and top off the radiator (when cold) and the overflow tank, then jump on the front bumper or bounce the front end around somehow to "burp" the radiator and get the air pockets out as much as you can.

If it gets to the point where you can remove the radiator cap when cold, and the coolant is at the top of the radiator neck, but the temp gauge needle still keeps rising adn the upper coolant hose stays cool, just go ahead and replace the thermostat.

It IS a good idea to replace the thermostat with a new water pump, anyway. Might just go ahead and do that if you have the time and tools, burp the system afterwards, and be done with it.

 

[Tony H]

Air trapped... pretty common. Run the engine until you get above what you know as NORMAL running temp. Then grab that top radiator hose and squeeze it hard 10 -15 times. I bet that hose starts getting real hot and the Temp gauge will drop.

That's how I 'Burp' the system.

 

[mysticclam]

Well I hope it is air. I forgot about running it with the cap "loose" to let air out.
I also forgot to pick up a thermostat which is why I didnt change it. Otherwise i would have put a new one in. I may go back and get that. Shouldnt be too hard to change since I dont have the clutch fan anymore.

 

[mysticclam]

well didnt get back to it for a couple days and when i did, found the overflow tank empty and the what I though a full radiator now took almost a full thing of 50/50, what are those 1 gallon? Anyway drove it on some blocks to lift the front end and let it warm up with the cap loose, after a bit it started splooshing coolant out so i closed it tight. Heat comes out of the heater now. The temp gauge still went up and down a bit so I let it cool and then checked the radiator, still full so I took it out for a drive and it stays low in the normal range getting up to about N, it still moves a bit but N is where it used to always stay driving or idling. Idling now it goes up to R but I think this is because I havent adjusted the new electric fan yet and that is where it turns on. No odd sounds when shutting off either. So I think all is well except the top hose never feels like water is going through it, still pretty easy to squeez. It is hot now though, (wasnt before). So if the fan is going on and off and the temp gauge is staying pretty steady low in normal is it safe to assume its not overheating? It doesnt smell like an overheating engine. Also, not relevant or anything, im really pleased nothing leaks. Got that part right

 

[moosejaw]

Just keep an eye on the overflow bottle for next couple of weeks to ensure there is makeup coolant for any "small" amounts of air that may be left. Check it before the first drive of the day and you should be fine.

Good luck with the new fan.

 

[Tony H]

Upper hose getting hot?

It sounds like you purged the air and all is well

 

[jwv3]

Another good way to get all the air out is to install a flush kit TEE in the heater hose about a foot from the firewall/heater core.

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