Water pump replacement... Do those bolts really snap and how difficult are they?

[SteveRosenow]

About to replace the water pump in the '96 and I have heard stories (and seen a few YT videos) that say the water pump bolts on a '96 Explorer with the 5.0L are easily susceptible to breaking/shearing during removal.

Is that true? My rig has 230k miles on it and when I replaced the water pump in a 3.0L Vulcan Taurus it seemed much easier to remove. In that, the bolts came right out.

What should I expect? I don't have power tools at my disposal nor can I afford to rent any.

 

[410Fortune]

yes there are 4 bolts on the 5.0 that go through the waterpump, through the timing cover and into the block
These bolts can be a real PITA and sometimes they break off
When that happens I pull the timing cover and replace it
Pulling the timing cover allows you access to the broken stud USUALLY
Also the timing cover usually gets *****ed up from prying it over the broken studs, so it is good to have one on hand in case this happens (under $100 on Ebay)
So a simple 3-4 hour water pump job can turn into a weekend event real quickly on a old 5.0
Now with that said MOST 5.0 that come through my shop I am able to get the waterpump changed without snapping a stud.
I would say only 75% of them break a bolt, or two, or three
So go into this prepared!

 

[SteveRosenow]

I hope that doesn't happen with mine... I can't afford to be without this rig as it's my only vehicle.

 

[410Fortune]

okay well the 5.0 is a bombproof but it does have a few bolts that suck!!
You are smart for coming here asking questions before you do the job


Water pump bolt broke off!!

Can I bypass..

there are more threads on this if we use the search function

 

[410Fortune]

5.0L Explorer water pump (broke stud)

Water pump bolts stuck 5.0 911.

Broken water pump bolt

Tricks to replacing 5.0 water pump

 

[koda2000]

A '96 5.0L with 230,000 miles? I think you can pretty much count on a broken bolt or two. Yes they can be a PITA.

 

[SteveRosenow]

A '96 5.0L with 230,000 miles? I think you can pretty much count on a broken bolt or two. Yes they can be a PITA.

I certainly hope not.

I cannot afford that much of a fix.

 

[donalds]

You can be surprised at how resourceful one can be when you are as broke as me

 

[donalds]

you don't need a timing cover lol

 

[410Fortune]

ummmmm please explain

 

[koda2000]

On the 5.0L you typically end up destroying the timing cover in order to get at/remove the broken bolt(s). To get the timing cover off you also need to drop the front of the oil pan to release the bottom of the cover. Then you need to reseal the oil pan when you install the new cover, as replacing the oil pan gasket is another PITA (especially if you've got an AWD).

The reason the long w/p bolts break is because they screw into the engine's water jacket and over time coolant leaks through the bolt threads and rusts the bolts solidly in the timing cover.

Maybe the OP will get lucky, but he needs to be prepared for the worst case scenario. I once was able to get a frozen 5.0L w/p bolt loose by drilling 1/8" holes in the top of the timing cover alone the bolts path. Then I kept filling the holes with a mixture of 50/50 ATF and acetone over a period of 2 days. Once the mixture soaked in I was able to gently work the bolt back and forth until I was finally able to get it out. Took a lot of work. When I replaced the bolts with a new ones I sealed the drilled holes with Permatex to guard against any future leaks. I also slathered the new bolts with anti-seize.

A '96 with 230K will likely not have had regular antifreeze changes/flushes, which is what leads to rust. Time and neglected maintenance makes for rusty bolts.

Best of luck OP.

 

[410Fortune]

so yeah I've replaced alot of these and almost always need a new timing cover, so much so that I keep one in stock and ready to go.
Felpro sells a timing cover gasket kit that comes with a new piece for the front of the oil pan, it is designed so that you cut the oem oil pan gasket and use this new piece with silicon at the corners
You will need to change your oil after the timing cover job, because you will get some gasket material and coolant in your oil pan. What I do is leave the oil drain plug out during the whole operation that way any coolant drains straight through, I cover the oil pan with a rag during the cleaning portion of the job.

I have patched these back together in the truck many times, sometimes putting them back together with one or even two broken studs still....not optimal but hey if you need your truck you need your truck
Removing the radiator will give you room to work in there, as stated earlier a simple water pump job on these engines turns into a whole front engine dress replacement.........

 

[koda2000]

I've read about others here just living with a single snapped off bolt without having a leak. Definitely not ideal, but sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. Pulling the rad will get you more room to work, but the 5.0L rad is a bit of a PITA too, due to the way it mounts to the A/C condenser with "fanny pack clips". It's also real tight between the frame rails. The V6 rads are super easy to R&R, but in Ford's infinite wisdom they did it the hard way on the 5.0L. It's not impossible just complicated.

 

[donalds]

ummmmm please explain

Joke lol obviously it's needed
It's funny lol my wife seen me giggling when I posted that comment so I told her what I posted
She said the people will get on you for that
I said anyone who works on cars would know it's a joke
Because well it's needed no matter what
Sorry I was wrong guess I just have a poor since of humor

 

[shucker1]

Sorry I was wrong guess I just have a poor since of humor

Your not alone.

It helps me keep my sanity...

 

[Hacra]

This might be useful...

 

[410Fortune]

your sense of humor is just fine.... its all good my man I'm retarded sometimes

 

[Pugsleys Mom]

About to replace the water pump in the '96 and I have heard stories (and seen a few YT videos) that say the water pump bolts on a '96 Explorer with the 5.0L are easily susceptible to breaking/shearing during removal.

Is that true? My rig has 230k miles on it and when I replaced the water pump in a 3.0L Vulcan Taurus it seemed much easier to remove. In that, the bolts came right out.

What should I expect? I don't have power tools at my disposal nor can I afford to rent any.

 

[Pugsleys Mom]

I have an 97, 5.0, go to junk yard to get water pump bolts. Been their done that, I even have a few extras in case it ever needs to be done again. I’m right at 300 thousand, and still going strong! Good luck

 

[masospaghetti]

I found a snapped bolt on my 96 that the previous owner had graciously left me to deal with, I got a stud puller and miraculously it got the stud out, I didn't think I had a chance.

This is the tool I used (different brand but looks exactly the same): https://www.amazon.com/Shop-Iron-16...tive&sprefix=titan+stud,automotive,176&sr=1-4