Water Pump To Thermostat Hose Leak

[Top942002]

There's got to be an easier way. After a water pump replacement two months ago, developed a coolant leak from the top hose to the lower thermostat housing. I figure that there's two ways to get to this bugger. (1) Pull the water pump or (2) Yank out the thermostat housing. There's so much equipment, hoses, and pulleys in the way, there seems to be no other way to changed out that short hose. If anyone has a better idea, I'd really be interested.
98 Explorer, 4.0 V6 Stock

 

[swshawaii]

SOHC? If so, put on the constant tension clamps in the middle, and fold the bypass hose in half using a tie wrap. Which end to install first is your choice. Lube the ends of the hose, and you should be able to get them on the nipples. If not, loosening the lower t-stat housing sounds easier than the water pump. Good time to replace the thermostat if you choose the latter. GL

 

[Top942002]

SOHC? GL[/QUOTE]

Sorry, I should've mentioned that it was a SOHC (important fact). I'll try that first. It was also mentioned in another post about removing the idler pulley to gain more space. Next stop is going to be Harbor frieght for some long needle nose pliers and a 17/16 inch wrench for the fan nut. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Top942002]

Close out of Thread

Long needle nose pliers did the trick. After moving the intake plenum and the throttle body, I had a clear shot to the clamps. Repositioned the lower clamp and shazam, stopped the leak. Sometimes its the simplest methods that work the best. Thanks for the tips.

 

[swshawaii]

Great to hear! Much as I despise the OEM constant tension hose clamps, I prefer them over the worm drive type, and always find a way to get cut on their sharp edges. These pliers are made specifically for constant tension clamps, but $35-$40 seems steep for occasional hose clamp R&R. I use a bent needle nose, and find them very handy for reaching awkward angles such as the PCV's rear valve cover location next to the firewall.

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