Weird Key Issue (No Key Detected, No Remote Start) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Weird Key Issue (No Key Detected, No Remote Start)

MuellerAndrewRay

Active Member
Joined
June 14, 2019
Messages
59
Reaction score
7
City, State
Green Bay, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2015, Ford Explorer Ltd
Like the title says... Remote start worked (initially), but with 'No Key Detected' it is obviously un-drivable. Luckily (VERY LUCK) we just got back from a 9 hour drive with multiple stops before this happened or I might be stuck midway somewhere.

I did put in a new battery in the remote, but now the remote won't work at all. Found my spare also and it isn't detected either and neither will even blink the lights. That key (rarely used) has always worked.

Any thoughts?
 



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I received a similar "No Key Detected" warning a couple time in my previous Explorer after I got out briefly and back in. The engine was running and there was an option in the warning to hit OK to clear it. Did that and away I went. Have you tried putting the key into the emergency start pocket to see if you can start the vehicle? That is for those with "Keyless Start".

Peter
 






If I take everything out of the console and put either of the keys into that slot, I can start the vehicle no problem. But that is the only way to start it. It won't start any other way at this point with either key. It isn't even allowing the remote to work for lock/unlock anymore.
 






Do you by any chance have any items plugged into the power outlets or USB ports? If so, try removing them and see if the remote will work.

Peter
 






Do you by any chance have any items plugged into the power outlets or USB ports? If so, try removing them and see if the remote will work.


I took everything out of both spots to find the key pocket :) So - nothing plugged in at all.
 






Strange indeed. I believe the antenna for that is under the front console. I'm guessing that you have the keyless entry buttons on the front doors? If so, do they work to lock/unlock the doors? If they work that means that the vehicle is detecting your key. Therefore I don't know why it wouldn't do the same when you get in and try to start it.

Peter
 






Strange indeed. I believe the antenna for that is under the front console. I'm guessing that you have the keyless entry buttons on the front doors? If so, do they work to lock/unlock the doors? If they work that means that the vehicle is detecting your key. Therefore I don't know why it wouldn't do the same when you get in and try to start it.

It did not lock/unluck with the keyless buttons. Only thing that works is putting the key in the emergency holder :(
 






Okay then, your vehicle is totally ignoring you. The securicode should still work so you could still use the vehicle provided you use the "pocket" for the key to start it. Did you happen to wipe the grease off the batteries when you put them in? The grease should be left in there. Also, have you confirmed that the new battery is correctly installed and is the correct one? I know it doesn't explain why the other key won't work. Seem like a silly question but I don't know what else to check at the moment. I believe the battery isn't even required to use the "pocket" for starting.
Have you tried driving it at all since this issue arose? You could try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect and see if anything changed. Mind you some saved memory may be lost but it might be worth a try.

Peter
 






Just scratching my head but when you said that you changed the battery did you mean batteries since there are 2 of them?
 






peterk9 said:
Okay then, your vehicle is totally ignoring you. The securicode should still work so you could still use the vehicle provided you use the "pocket" for the key to start it. Did you happen to wipe the grease off the batteries when you put them in? The grease should be left in there. Also, have you confirmed that the new battery is correctly installed and is the correct one? I know it doesn't explain why the other key won't work. Seem like a silly question but I don't know what else to check at the moment. I believe the battery isn't even required to use the "pocket" for starting.
Have you tried driving it at all since this issue arose? You could try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect and see if anything changed. Mind you some saved memory may be lost but it might be worth a try.
I put in battery 2032, which was the same one I pulled from one of the remotes prior to walking into Walgreens. Looks the same, fits the same. As far as the grease, I mentioned that I did not have dielectric grease - I will buy some today. I have driven it with the key in the 'pocket' without issues.

One thing of note when I don't have the key in the 'pocket' is that the brake will not fully depress (feels stiff). I find that a bit odd, but it is something that happened about a month ago also when my car battery was going dead. This is a brand new battery, though.

I tried disconnecting the negative. No difference except I have to set up my seat position again :)


Just scratching my head but when you said that you changed the battery did you mean batteries since there are 2 of them?

My remote only has 1 battery, CR2032.
 






I also ran 2 diagnostic tests via ForScan:

  • Key On Engine Running On Demand Self-Test: Test ran without any problems, no errors
  • Key On Engine Off On Demand Self-Test: Test began, but near the beginning of the test the vehicle shut off power to accessory which disconnected the ODB2 and failed the test. The dash then came up with a message that said "3 keys programmed", which I found odd since I've never seen that message before. Unfortunately - remotes still unoperable (except in 'pouch')
 






On my 2016 there are two batteries and if you don't look you may not see the second one under the first..
 






I put in battery 2032, which was the same one I pulled from one of the remotes prior to walking into Walgreens. Looks the same, fits the same. As far as the grease, I mentioned that I did not have dielectric grease - I will buy some today. I have driven it with the key in the 'pocket' without issues.

One thing of note when I don't have the key in the 'pocket' is that the break will not fully depress (feels stiff). I find that a bit odd, but it is something that happened about a month ago also when my car battery was going dead. This is a brand new battery, though.

I tried disconnecting the negative. No difference except I have to set up my seat position again :)




My remote only has 1 battery, CR2032.
I don't see where it was mentioned that there wasn't any grease. In any case, the dielectric grease shouldn't be the issue. It just helps conductivity but I doubt the lack of it would cause this issue. I don't know what else to suggest other than perhaps taking it to the dealer or another garage.

Peter
 






On my 2016 there are two batteries and if you don't look you may not see the second one under the first..
The 2015 only has a single CR2032 battery in both the Integrated Keyhead and Intelligent Access Transmitters. The 2016 is different regarding the Intelligent Access Transmitter. It uses two CR2025 batteries.

Peter
 






I don't see where it was mentioned that there wasn't any grease. In any case, the dielectric grease shouldn't be the issue. It just helps conductivity but I doubt the lack of it would cause this issue. I don't know what else to suggest other than perhaps taking it to the dealer or another garage.

ok, I hate taking any vehicle into a garage when it appears to be electrical. None of them seem to know what they are doing :( I have taken a couple of cars in for that type of thing and, in the end, I had to figure it out myself (for them) so they could replace the correct issue. Of course that was after hundreds (thousands in one case) of dollars in charges even while not fixing the problem. It just isn't their specialty, IMO.

I may have to check out the electrical wiring diagrams to see if there is anything that could fail that might cause this type of issue. Otherwise I will just ride around with an unlocked vehicle and a key in the 'pocket' :)
 






You should still be able to use the Securicode keypad to lock/unlock the vehicle. Or is that dead as well? BTW, I edited the title to show no remote start since that is now the issue too.

Peter
 






You should still be able to use the Securicode keypad to lock/unlock the vehicle. Or is that dead as well? BTW, I edited the title to show no remote start since that is now the issue too.

I will try again today, wouldn't work yesterday. I'm pretty sure I know the code... I've used it recently and I have never had a problem remembering it - so assume it is the one in my head today :) no worries on the title, good call.
 






Every once in a while my key is not initially detected and I have the "stiff" or hard brake pedal so that seems somewhat common.

When the key battery was low I got a warning from the left side display in the instrument panel. I have a 2016 so it took 2 batteries.

Do you know the state of your car battery? If that's on it's way out could that be the source of the issue? I'm also assuming that the batteries you picked up weren't sitting on the Walgreen's rack for the past 5 years. :)
 






I don't see where it was mentioned that there wasn't any grease. In any case, the dielectric grease shouldn't be the issue. It just helps conductivity but I doubt the lack of it would cause this issue. I don't know what else to suggest other than perhaps taking it to the dealer or another garage.

Peter
hers a quick test put volt meter on the new battery in fob. its not unheard of to buy a new battery only for it to be dead
 



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Like the title says... Remote start worked (initially), but with 'No Key Detected' it is obviously un-drivable. Luckily (VERY LUCK) we just got back from a 9 hour drive with multiple stops before this happened or I might be stuck midway somewhere.

I did put in a new battery in the remote, but now the remote won't work at all. Found my spare also and it isn't detected either and neither will even blink the lights. That key (rarely used) has always worked.

Any thoughts?
I have notice that sometimes my remote will not work if it is close proximity to my Apple Phone.
 






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