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well I've finally bit the bullet SAS

well I've finally bit the bullet: Curtis' 3-link SAS

I'll be picking up my D30 from a TJ with 4.10s (to match the 4.10 i already have) plus, its 50% day at the JY :D i will be making my own custom three link, using ballistic joints on the frame side & Rustys superflex joints at the axle, lower links are 1.5" DOM .120 wall sleeved with 2" DOM .250 Wall. Third link is 1.5" DOM .120 wall with a Creeper joint at the frame and stock jk end on the axle.

bracket.jpg

bracket2.jpg



Ill also be using an adjustable track bar from an XJ that im getting for free, the coil buckets are from ballistic and the shock towers are f250 ones. The steering box will be from an ifs Toyota with a trailgear pitman arm, the return line is stock while the stock pressure line was lengthened, ill also be using a hybrid shaft from the toy box and stock explorer shafts. all the steering on the axle will be chevy TRE over the knuckle with 1.25" .250 tubing and the drag link is the same tube with 3/4 heims. Brake lines will be from Rustys, going to use Wild Horse EB 5.5" springs and shocks are Bilstein 5125 12" travel and im going to SOA the rear with the stock shocks mounted in the top sway bar hole.

I moved the axle 3" forward for a wheel base of 105" and will be using a hybrid driveshaft from a first gen and my 95-96 front shaft. Now has 35/1250/15 new MTR's on 15x10 black wheels (don't know what kind) and kept the spacers up front.

And my 4.10 front diff and 2" body lift with custom brackets will be for sale, if anyone is interested PM me

Im sure ive forgotten something but heres the budget brake down so far:
Axle $60
Mounts $100
Custom 3 link $200
Dana 30 Lock Right $75
Axle Seals & Synthetic Gear Oil $70
8.8 Aussie $280
Ruffstuff 8.8 diff cover $135
Ruffstuff D30 cover $125
35" MTR's $714
Wheels $0
Extended stainless brake lines $62
Steering box $50
Shock towers $60
Ballistic buckets $85
WJ brake swap $300
One ton steering $200
Sliders $150
Shocks $175
Misc Items (cutting wheels, welding wire, bolts, etc) $100

Total so far $2981

pics to come.
 


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rngmStr

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subscribed............. :popcorn:
 








section525

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Very cool, Tarheel! :cool: It'll be interesting to see what a low-budget SAS can finish at. Do you have a set price goal?
 




TarHeel085

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Very cool, Tarheel! :cool: It'll be interesting to see what a low-budget SAS can finish at. Do you have a set price goal?
thanks! im trying to stay around $500 by hopefully selling the body lift and front end parts.

also, does anyone know if the steering box from a first gen is the same as an f150? car-parts seems to think so
 




rookieshooter

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When you say $350 for custom 3 link, is that all the stuff that you ordered separately including DOM tubing? Or a kit?
I know in just 8 Johnny joints from Ballistic I'll have close to $320. Now this is for a front 4 link.
 




TarHeel085

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When you say $350 for custom 3 link, is that all the stuff that you ordered separately including DOM tubing? Or a kit?
thats with DOM, im also going to try and make them high clearance if i can find someone with a bender with a 2" die. ill be using 2" DOM .250 wall.
 




rookieshooter

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Sounds good. Good luck and post some pics please.
 




section525

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I've read that all the F150s, vans, Explorer, etc used the exact same box.
 




rookieshooter

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thats with DOM, im also going to try and make them high clearance if i can find someone with a bender with a 2" die. ill be using 2" DOM .250 wall.

I bet there are some race car shops in your part of the country that would have the bender. That's where I had my tubing bent at a local race car shop that builds NASCAR Late Model cars. I just had to bring it in around their schedule. They only charged me around $2 per bend.
 




IZwack

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0.25" wall, 2.0" OD -- you'll definitely need a hydraulic bender for that piece.
 




Tbars4

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TarHeel085

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I will be very surprised if you get this bracket to work. I think you will run into driveshaft clearance issues with it on the driverside. If you put it on the passenger then you will have to reroute your exhaust and maybe relocate the oil filter. At least that is how it is on the two TTB trucks I have done 3 links on.

I will also be very surprised if you get the trackbar bracket to work as well. Unless you plan on cutting off the axle mount and moving it to the right locations.

I think your $500 budget is a bit low unless you use a bunch of junkyard parts and hobble it together. I hope you can do it but I just don't see it.

Stock XJ coils are going to be way to short. I am using 8" TJ skyjacker springs and got about 6" of lift out of them. They are too soft and they are stiffest ones I could find. This is on a ranger which is lighter then an explorer.

Interested to follow your build.
 




RockRanger

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Also kent037 posted about some CHEAP sticks of DOM. Not sure if he can still get them but they are a good deal if he can.
 




TarHeel085

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hmm, i hadnt thought about that yet rockranger, im still in the preliminary stages here. i dont have to have the third upper link be as long as the lower ones. and im not sure what you mean about the track bar mount.

I can also get some ZJ V8 rear springs which supposedly give a TJ 3" of lift. Im really trying to limit the lift acheived by doing this.
 




RockRanger

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The trackbar and drag link need to be the same length and the same angle. With the axle mount already in place you need to put the frame mount ina specific place having a short upper link defeats the reason to do a three link to begin with. A radius arm setup is a lot easier to fit
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TarHeel085

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small update, i found a dana 35 lock right for $75 with the understanding that it will work in a 30. and it does with a little grinding on the carrier, it works perfectly right now, real test is on the road. but the axle is all back together and i have the TJ coil buckets, have the coils, track bar, i think shocks. all thats left is to order bracketry and get some tube.

few pictures

carrier.jpg

axle.jpg


and rockranger I think your right about the coils, so I will be using my friends 6" TJ coils and shocks from it too.
 




rookieshooter

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I think your $500 budget is a bit low unless you use a bunch of junkyard parts and hobble it together. I hope you can do it but I just don't see it.

.

I'm thinking the same thing as being a tad bit low. But the main thing is that your doing it, congratulations to ya.
I know nothing of the type axle your going to use. How about the existing TREs and bushings on the axle, are they in fine shape or are they going to be replaced?
How about bolt pattern for your wheels are they the same?

Like Ranger said make sure you keep the drag link the same angle as the track bar or the evil bump steer will get ya.
From my own experience with my rear coilover radius arm suspension. The more level you can get the track bar the less the axle wants to shift sideway on ya. Mine used to be on a steeper angle and the rear wanted to move sideways even when shifting gears. Since I have a B&M shift kit it was even more pronounced, untill I started to change to less of an angle.
Good luck
 


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TarHeel085

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just a small update, ill be buying the brackets and joints this week. im also trying to wire up a 220 outlet in my garage so i can use our plasma cutter and welder. and attempting to remove the body lift. funny thing is, it was easier to put on then take off :rolleyes:

and hopefully have scored some RE quick disconnects for $40

rookie, the TJ30 has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern, so ill be re-using my stock wheels.
 




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