Went to put warn hubs on, something missing?

[atistang]

Bought warn hubs and conversion kits, set me back 280 bux:thumbdwn:

anyways when i went to install them i noticed the paper that came with them showed a three piece thrust washer on the axles. The thing is when i pulled mine apart all i have is one steel washer. the paper showed two plastic ones in front of the steel. I noticed that the axle seemed to have a little play. I went ahead and put it back together as i needed my 4wd last night with the 3 foot snow drifts. Everything worked but it seemed a bit noisy

So is there suppose to be two plastic washers in front of the steel? And can you get them at any parts stores? Seems like just that steel one will beat up the end of my spindle.

 

[410Fortune]

There are no plastic washers in the manual hubs, can you explain?

-The rotor and wheel bearings go on the spindle followed by:
the inner spindle nut, set the bearing pre load
-the lock ring washer (rides in the spindle groove and locks the pin on the inner spindle nut in place
-the outer spindle nut, or jamb nut. This sucker gets torqued down TIGHT, 180 ft lbs+

On the end of the axle shaft goes one metal star washer followed by the c clip. This is the axle retainer, sometimes the star washer is plastic...if this is the washer you are referring to there is only one. A little play inthe axle shaft is fine, but if there is too much you may want to check out your u joints and the slip yoke on the pass side

 

[thunderhorse]

I have only put manual hubs on a 92 but should be the same as yours, and there are no Plastic washers. Just the inter nut (with the pin for the lock washer), the lock washer, then the jam nut.

 

[Glen4X4]

Yeah...there should be no plastic washers at all for the manual hubs.

 

[DeRocha]

The 2 plastic washers are used with automatic hubs to shim the nylon cam into making better contact with the ears within the autohub. As mentioned by everyone else manual hubs need no such shims as the activation is purely through someone physically turning the hub lock switch.

BTW the axle will float around and seam loose with the hubs off.. Once the hubs are installed the axles will have very little if any slop or looseness.

 

[atistang]

ok, i guess the front diff is just kinda noisy, i know when i get aggressive in the snow you can feel something up front wobble, but maybe that just has to do with the play in my steering

 

[dylan_133]

yeah DeRocha is right the plastic washers are only for auto hubs, i just put warn hubs on my 91 ex and they had the plastic washers on there but those are not needed on the manual hubs.

 

[atistang]

all must be good, i just got back from an hour of being sideways in 2ft + of snow and nothing has broken yet lol

 

[DeRocha]

I assume your ball-joints and wheel bearings are good correct?

 

[Tony H]

When I did mine there were no Nylon Washers on the Auto setup as indicated either.

The axle inside the axles housing does have 'play in it. In fact sometimes you have to yank the axle outward to get that Snap ring in the axle

You are OK

 

[atistang]

I assume your ball-joints and wheel bearings are good correct?

just put new ball joints and u joints in the front on both sides. the passenger side wheel bearing has some pits on the rollers, i'm gonna change those out soon. the radius arm bushings are bad though. I was going up a hill barley making headway with all four wheels spinning and it was popping loud as hell, my friend was standing outside watching me and he said the drivers front wheel was moving back and forth a good inch each way

 

[Stumpy2fingers]

Ok so I tried for the 3rd time today to switch my hubs. The problem is I haven't found the socket size I need to for my WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTING NUT. Please help with what size socket or how to get it off with something else. Please I really need help with this.

 

[MrShorty]

It's officially a 2-3/8 inch socket. However, it shouldn't be on very tight (16 in-lbs), and, where you're replacing it with the manual hub set-up, a pair of channel locks should be plenty for getting it off. If you are having trouble getting it off, did you get the locking key out?

 

[Stumpy2fingers]

This is what happens when you learn about it later

 

[Tony H]

Once you pull the Toothy looking Plastic piece off, look for a small 'pin' that fits in the keyway of the spindle and the nut. Once you slide that out, the Nut is not on tight at all. That 'Key' is what keeps the Nut from Backing off.

Do you have the socket for the Manual Hub Replacement nuts? Have you looked at them to know what you need?