What are my options?

[Blown98]

So, here's the story on my 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer 4.0l sohc. 206,x.. miles, timing components self destructed(from crank to jackshaft and from crank to balance shaft(balance shaft bearings in the oil pan and stuck in the front timing gears, also the plastic guides where destroyed too and small bits of them were coming out at oil changes,as well as chunks when the oil pan was dropped)).

I am at a crossroads here. Since my engine stand prohibits(well, will make it extremely difficult) to perform any type of compression test on the motor, what is the most cost effective means to get my explorer back on the road, considering i cant tell if the engine even still has good compression? Buy a junkyard engine(if i can find one with low miles), go to an online engine seller, or do i just rebuild what i have?

Assuming I CAN rebuild what i have and the engine still has good compression, what would i have to do to rebuild the engine? Just drop new timing components in with a new oil pump? Should i also change out the head gaskets as well? Do i need to spec out all the bearing clearances to make sure i wont have a failure in the bottom end of the motor?

Any guidance here is greatly appreciated here, especially since the sooner I can get this thing back on the road, the sooner i will be out of this cold weather on the bike. And please feel free to ask any questions, i can upload pics as needed if thats what will help in making a decision here.

 

[koda2000]

it's not worth it to rebuild your engine. there's probably too much internal damage. options include:

- junk it
- sell it for parts
- install a reman engine
- install a good, low mileage, newer (eg: 2005 Mustang 4.0 SOHC) short block

if you want to keep the truck, i'd go with the last option. i junked my '01 SOHC last spring.

edit: i meant to say long block

 

[2000StreetRod]

Mustang SOHC V6?

So, here's the story on my 1998 Eddie Bauer Explorer 4.0l sohc. 206,x.. miles, timing components self destructed(from crank to jackshaft and from crank to balance shaft(balance shaft bearings in the oil pan and stuck in the front timing gears, also the plastic guides where destroyed too and small bits of them were coming out at oil changes,as well as chunks when the oil pan was dropped)).

It is unlikely that there are parts of the balance shaft bearing in your oil pan. The metal fragments are probably leaves from the balance shaft chain tensioner or the primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) chain tensioner.

I am at a crossroads here. Since my engine stand prohibits(well, will make it extremely difficult) to perform any type of compression test on the motor, what is the most cost effective means to get my explorer back on the road, considering i cant tell if the engine even still has good compression? Buy a junkyard engine(if i can find one with low miles), go to an online engine seller, or do i just rebuild what i have?

Since you know what is broken I assume that you have the engine out and on a stand. Did the left or right camshaft timing chain actually break? What about the primary chain? If any of those are broken then it is very likely that you have valve damage and no compression. If the chains are not broken and you can still rotate the crankshaft you can check for chain slip. If either camshaft is more than 30 degrees off then there's probably at least exhaust valve damage. You can use an air compressor to check for bent valves instead of rotating the crankshaft with a starter. If the valves are bent I think your fastest and least expensive repair is to replace the engine with one from a salvage yard.

Assuming I CAN rebuild what i have and the engine still has good compression, what would i have to do to rebuild the engine? Just drop new timing components in with a new oil pump? Should i also change out the head gaskets as well? Do i need to spec out all the bearing clearances to make sure i wont have a failure in the bottom end of the motor?

If there is no valve damage and normal bearing (crank & rod) wear you should be able to get another 150K miles with just replacing timing components and flushing out all of the broken pieces. If your oil pressure was good before the failures then it probably just needs the pieces cleaned out of the oil pickup screen.

Any guidance here is greatly appreciated here, especially since the sooner I can get this thing back on the road, the sooner i will be out of this cold weather on the bike. And please feel free to ask any questions, i can upload pics as needed if thats what will help in making a decision here.

If you find a low mileage (less than 50K miles) Explorer engine in a salvage yard then it's probably been sitting for many years or it will be fairly new and fairly expensive. After five years or so the fuel injectors will probably be clogged and should be professionally cleaned or replaced. The piston rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls and may break if loosened by brute force. I would consider looking for a late model Mustang SOHC V6. They're not in great demand (the Mustang enthusiasts all want the V8s) and it takes a fair amount of work to use them in an Explorer. The engine won't have the balance shaft but many 4WD Explorers are now on the road with no functional balance shaft and most members have not noticed any difference in vibration. Basically, you would just use the Mustang long block and transfer everything else from your Explorer engine. I think the injector to head adapters/insulators/seals are different and the Mustang ones will probably break if you try to reuse them. Also, the Explorer has a crankcase breather that fits in a port on the block that is plugged on the Mustang.

 

[Blown98]

I am glad you commented 2000StreetRod, your engine pull guide was very handy. So, let me start off with answering your post. Assuming i am wrong about the balance shaft bearings and they are in fact only tensioner leaves(they were only about 1/16in thick), that may be something hopeful.

"Since you know what is broken I assume that you have the engine out and on a stand. Did the left or right camshaft timing chain actually break? What about the primary chain? If any of those are broken then it is very likely that you have valve damage and no compression. If the chains are not broken and you can still rotate the crankshaft you can check for chain slip. If either camshaft is more than 30 degrees off then there's probably at least exhaust valve damage. You can use an air compressor to check for bent valves instead of rotating the crankshaft with a starter. If the valves are bent I think your fastest and least expensive repair is to replace the engine with one from a salvage yard."

No cam chains were broken, just the front most tensioner on the left hand side. Now, assuming the chain did not hop(from crank to jackshaft), timing should also still be correct. And yes, the engine is currently on a stand. However, the flywheel is in contact with the baseplate of the stand, and i have no way to relieve that pressure(my borrowed hoist is gone) in order to perform a compression test.

"If there is no valve damage and normal bearing (crank & rod) wear you should be able to get another 150K miles with just replacing timing components and flushing out all of the broken pieces. If your oil pressure was good before the failures then it probably just needs the pieces cleaned out of the oil pickup screen."

Like I said above, i still believe that timing is correct. I had previously pulled the plugs and inspected inside, i didnt notice any damage to the top of the pistons or damage to the valves(but we all know how small that hole is, could have missed something). Back when i was gifted the Explorer at 198,x.. miles, it already had the chain rattle. After an oil change and running the engine for about another 4k miles, there was an "excess" of metal shavings in the oil. Whether the filter was trapping the shavings or allowing them to flow through the entire engine, i do not know. I was using a Valvoline made Purolator Filter if that makes an difference. There was no difference at all in the "indicated" oil pressure from 60k miles(from my parents) till the time it was given to me at 198k.

"If you find a low mileage (less than 50K miles) Explorer engine in a salvage yard then it's probably been sitting for many years or it will be fairly new and fairly expensive. After five years or so the fuel injectors will probably be clogged and should be professionally cleaned or replaced. The piston rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls and may break if loosened by brute force. I would consider looking for a late model Mustang SOHC V6. They're not in great demand (the Mustang enthusiasts all want the V8s) and it takes a fair amount of work to use them in an Explorer. The engine won't have the balance shaft but many 4WD Explorers are now on the road with no functional balance shaft and most members have not noticed any difference in vibration. Basically, you would just use the Mustang long block and transfer everything else from your Explorer engine. I think the injector to head adapters/insulators/seals are different and the Mustang ones will probably break if you try to reuse them. Also, the Explorer has a crankcase breather that fits in a port on the block that is plugged on the Mustang. "

I have been reading extensively on swaps, etc. and it all truly comes down to money(i fancied putting in a VQ37VHR and trans but then i realized that would cost more than $4k). My biggest concern is this, will a stock sohc mustang engine bolt up to my current tranny(whatever a 4x4 98 explorer has, is it a 55r5e?) AND fit easily into my engine bay. Those are my biggest concerns. Im not opposed to doing an entire mustang 4.6L swap, i just want to keep my 4x4 functionality even though I now live in the South now. Does anyone have any links to a Mustang Swap? Also, say I bought a used motor that has been sitting for several years, low miles, etc. What would i need to check on it? I would imagine an online engine dealer would make sure it runs before shipping(lets just run with that assumption for the time being.)

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the camshaft timing

. . . Assuming i am wrong about the balance shaft bearings and they are in fact only tensioner leaves(they were only about 1/16in thick), that may be something hopeful.

The block cradle (upper oil pan) must be removed to gain access to the balance shaft chain tensioner.

The leaves in the spring section look like shown below when found in the oil pan.

The primary chain tensioner leaves look similar but are larger.

No cam chains were broken, just the front most tensioner on the left hand side. Now, assuming the chain did not hop(from crank to jackshaft), timing should also still be correct. And yes, the engine is currently on a stand. However, the flywheel is in contact with the baseplate of the stand, and i have no way to relieve that pressure(my borrowed hoist is gone) in order to perform a compression test.

You need to rotate the crankshaft to piston #1 at TDC and check the camshaft timing before deciding what to do next. When #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke both camshaft timing slots should be below the axis of the camshaft and parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover. If #1 piston is on the exhaust stroke at TDC both timing slots should be above the axis of the camshaft and parallel to the head surface that mates with the valve cover.

Like I said above, i still believe that timing is correct. I had previously pulled the plugs and inspected inside, i didnt notice any damage to the top of the pistons or damage to the valves(but we all know how small that hole is, could have missed something). Back when i was gifted the Explorer at 198,x.. miles, it already had the chain rattle. After an oil change and running the engine for about another 4k miles, there was an "excess" of metal shavings in the oil. Whether the filter was trapping the shavings or allowing them to flow through the entire engine, i do not know. I was using a Valvoline made Purolator Filter if that makes an difference. There was no difference at all in the "indicated" oil pressure from 60k miles(from my parents) till the time it was given to me at 198k.

Valve damage is hard to see thru the spark plug hole.

The oil pressure "gauge" on the instrument panel is a glorified idiot light. The engine has an oil pressure switch on the driver side near the front that activates the "gauge" when the oil pressure is above around 5 to 8 psi. Normally it is possible to detect low oil pressure by the sound of the engine but probably not in your case with rattling timing chains.

I have been reading extensively on swaps, etc. and it all truly comes down to money(i fancied putting in a VQ37VHR and trans but then i realized that would cost more than $4k). My biggest concern is this, will a stock sohc mustang engine bolt up to my current tranny(whatever a 4x4 98 explorer has, is it a 55r5e?) AND fit easily into my engine bay. Those are my biggest concerns. Im not opposed to doing an entire mustang 4.6L swap, i just want to keep my 4x4 functionality even though I now live in the South now. Does anyone have any links to a Mustang Swap? Also, say I bought a used motor that has been sitting for several years, low miles, etc. What would i need to check on it? I would imagine an online engine dealer would make sure it runs before shipping(lets just run with that assumption for the time being.)

Anything other than another Ford 4.0L SOHC V6 will cost more than your vehicle would be worth after the installation. The 4.0L SOHC V6 long block from any Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger, Mustang or even Land Rover will bolt up to your transmission. You want a 2002 or later model so it has the improved timing chain components or an earlier engine that has had the components replaced. There are a couple documented Mustang to Explorer swaps on the forum: Engine swap 98 sohc with 05 Mustang motor

 

[Blown98]

In this image, check out the highlighted green area(this was immediately after removing the timing chain cover, have removed all the loose pieces since then, and sorry for the crappy angle, its the only one i took.) If you look closely, you can see that only the bottommost part of the plastic tensioner remains, while the rest of it was destroyed. Also, the bottom balance shaft tensioner is gone as well.)

In this picture(that would be yours 2000Streetrod), the green circled portion was gone. Entirely eaten away by the front most timing chain(crank to jackshaft).

And in this last photo of yours 2000StreetRod, the green circled area was gone as well(as mentioned in the first photo of mine.

As far as being able to rotate the engine to TDC, i am currently unable to do so. The Engine stand my engine is on, well, the backplate that allows me to tap into the block for "securement" is also in contact with the flywheel. Just enough that it is impossible to rotate the crank. Now, for the sake of being adventurous(and having another opinion on the matter), do you think if i could somehow lift the engine by a main cap(with a wooden 4x4 off a floor jack), i could take enough weight off the stand to allow movement? About the only option i have at the moment as i have no access to a hoist.


Concerning oil pressure, i never noticed anything amiss or excessively "loud", just the timing chain noise at 2300-2800 rpm. And, although i feel ashamed admitting it here, i did take this engine(at 200k+ miles with the above pictured timing components) up to 6k rpms on i think 3 or 4 occasions, and it performed flawlessly each time, and afterwards as well. Never had any issue idling(well, after fixing the plenum gasket recall that was never performed by my father), driving, overheating, anything. I would also like to add that when i popped off a few of the cam caps and also separated a few rods, all bearings and mating surfaces looked amazing. No abnormal wear as far as i could tell(i only check a few of the caps and only 2 rods).

I would honestly love to spend the money on a swap, but im not financially able to do so. Still trying to get back on my feet (5 months of unemployment with no pay at 22 blows), so if i can, i would prefer to reuse this block and components if at all possible, although it is comforting knowing other engines will bolt to my stock transmission.

 

[Blown98]

If i need to edit that topmost picture to comply with a max resolution rule, just let me know and i'll change it to a hyperlink instead.

 

[jprentice94]

I would pull the head to check everything while its out dping head gaskets while its out will give you peace of mind later knowing its not going to be a hefty bill or pita also i thought thesE motors were valve interference so you could have bemt a rod at the same time just saying its best to check then be aorry later. On one hand it may be cheaper to find a junkyard motor but you know the problem with this one the other one could have hidden problems which could wind up costing more if your valves and everything looks fine then i would say stick with this motor

 

[2000StreetRod]

more background information

Piston to valve damage will not occur unless one of the timing chains slip or break. That typically does not happen if the primary chain tensioner fails. The balance shaft chain tensioner has nothing to do with camshaft timing. It only affects rotational balance of the engine.

I need more background information. Did the engine stop running or did you just tear it down because of the internal clatter?

Since the valve covers are off have you checked the right and left cassette guides to determine if they are broken?

If the cassettes are not broken and the primary chain is not broken and the engine was still running before you tore it down then I doubt there is any interference damage or timing chain slip. You could get by with just replacing the primary chain tensioner and cleaning the pieces out of the engine. Some members just cut the balance shaft chain and remove it rather than remove the block cradle (a fairly complicated process) to replace the tensioner. A couple members have been able to bend the pivot post on the tensioner base enough to replace the spring section without removing the block cradle.

I discourage you from removing the heads at this time without first doing more damage assessment. Once you remove the heads the cost and complexity of repair increases significantly [head gaskets, head bolts (not reuseable), camshafts must be retimed (timing tool kit needed)]. Its possible that retiming of the camshafts can be completely avoided if they are still in the correct position.

 

[2000StreetRod]

checking the rear cassette guide

The rear cassette guide should look like the photo below.

If the top pieces by the guide bolt are missing then the cassette should be replaced which means retiming the camshafts.

If the top pieces are present the base could still be broken.

Try grasping the top of the guide and pulling upward. If there is any significant movement up and down the guide is broken. Also, if the chain is slack then the guide is probably broken.

 

[jprentice94]

Why would you not do a 1000 dollar job while its easy just wondering and its not going to be much more complex obviously hes pretty mechanically savvy so it shouldnt be to hard for him to do i didnt have an alignment tool but i had seone to help me

 

[2000StreetRod]

financial ability

Why would you not do a 1000 dollar job while its easy just wondering and its not going to be much more complex obviously hes pretty mechanically savvy so it shouldnt be to hard for him to do i didnt have an alignment tool but i had seone to help me

You may have overlooked the last part of his post: "I would honestly love to spend the money on a swap, but im not financially able to do so. Still trying to get back on my feet (5 months of unemployment with no pay at 22 blows), so if i can, i would prefer to reuse this block and components if at all possible, although it is comforting knowing other engines will bolt to my stock transmission."

 

[jprentice94]

It only going to cost him the price of the gaskets and bolts if he can do it then it will be cheaper then when it blows in the car thats all im saying btw i didnt see that part . I dont mean change heads all together just the gaskets like preventative maintenance

 

[Blown98]

I just want to start out and say i have never been able to get a quote function to work before, but here goes...

I need more background information. Did the engine stop running or did you just tear it down because of the internal clatter?

I thought i had isolated the "noise" i was hearing to the back cassette. So i decided that over a 4 day weekend, i would pull the engine, and replace the broken components. I was in fact very wrong about what had broken. See below pics of tensioners.

Since the valve covers are off have you checked the right and left cassette guides to determine if they are broken?

Both valve covers are indeed off, and both front and rear cam chain tensioners(as far as i can tell) look spectacular.

Rear(lets try click through links this time):

Top

Closeup exhaust side


Closeup Intake Side


Front Tensioner:

Top(looking at tensioner(intake side))

Side View(Exhaust side closest)

Front view

If the cassettes are not broken and the primary chain is not broken and the engine was still running before you tore it down then I doubt there is any interference damage or timing chain slip. You could get by with just replacing the primary chain tensioner and cleaning the pieces out of the engine.

That is what I was hoping to hear, however, for the sake of continuing this to further assess any damage you may think to look for, I'll stay quiet.

Some members just cut the balance shaft chain and remove it rather than remove the block cradle (a fairly complicated process) to replace the tensioner. A couple members have been able to bend the pivot post on the tensioner base enough to replace the spring section without removing the block cradle.

Ok, now i understand the 4x2 version of this engine doesnt even have the balance shaft. What I'm very curious about is how Ford(or whoever in Germany designed this engine), was able to justify one engine with, and one without, because it reduces (i believe) the second harmonic since a v6 is inherently unbalanced due to its firing order, no matter how well the rotating components may be balanced. But thats neither here nor there, thats more an engine builder forum question then this particular thread.

I discourage you from removing the heads at this time without first doing more damage assessment. Once you remove the heads the cost and complexity of repair increases significantly [head gaskets, head bolts (not reuseable), camshafts must be retimed (timing tool kit needed)]. Its possible that retiming of the camshafts can be completely avoided if they are still in the correct position.

And this right here is THE BIG time question. Like jprentice94 hinted at, i am fairly mechanically inclined. However, i only own an in/lb torque wrench at the moment, and although I understand the process of changing out head gaskets, I have never actually done it. Also, i dont own a torque angle adapter, since these head bolts are Torque to Yield. I would love to go ahead and change out the head gaskets and get it out of the way. But is it necessary? How long can a headgasket last for? I can tell you the entire vehicle history from 60k miles to 206k miles. Driven very lightly(probably never saw past 3k rpms for most of its life). Noticed the tensioner noise at about 193-195k miles. After that, never saw above 2200rpm until about 202k miles. Like i said above, i pulled the engine at 206k miles preventatively. So assuming a gentle life and a proper breakin, my compression should still be relatively high. Oil Changed every 4-5k miles, never run low on oil, Penzoil High Mileage from 60k to 200k(didnt have a single oil leak until i switched to Valvoline's Maxlife at 200k), never overheated.... So there is a little more of a background for you, if that helps at all.

And on a side note, can someone please tell me what size this bolt is?

 

[jprentice94]

Torque to yeild bolts mean 1 time use so you have to buy new bolts. Honestly if you have acess to tools a head gasket isnt to difficult i did one basically by my self on my sportage while i was in high school the motor was in the car thats Why i say do it while its out. Its not to difficult but you need to get the timing right Are these dohc like the main problem i. Had was it was dohc so i had to keep the cams lined up p.s i had no tool but i had another set of experienced hamds to help with this part but

 

[2000StreetRod]

my opinions

. . . Both valve covers are indeed off, and both front and rear cam chain tensioners(as far as i can tell) look spectacular.

The rear guide looks good to me. Pull up on the guide where it strattles the positioning post to make sure the buide is not broken at the base.

The front guide looks good to me but I can't see the "finger" at the bottom which sometimes breaks off.

Look for pieces of it in the pan.

Also, do you have the updated front guide hydraulic tensioner?

The updated front tensioner is longer than the original stock one. If not, I suggest installing the 00m12 kit that contains upper & lower intake manifold gaskets, front tensioner, and volume reducer.

. . . Ok, now i understand the 4x2 version of this engine doesnt even have the balance shaft. What I'm very curious about is how Ford(or whoever in Germany designed this engine), was able to justify one engine with, and one without, because it reduces (i believe) the second harmonic since a v6 is inherently unbalanced due to its firing order, no matter how well the rotating components may be balanced. But thats neither here nor there, thats more an engine builder forum question then this particular thread.

My previously posted comments on another thread:

"Two types of imbalance associated with the SOHC V6 engine are rotational imbalance and reciprocating imbalance. The crankshaft counter weights reduce rotational imbalance. The balance shaft is used to reduce reciprocating imbalance. That is one reason that the balance shaft rotates much faster than the crankshaft. A symmetrical opposing (flat) engine needs no balance shaft because the reciprocating forces of one piston are offset by those of an opposing piston.

I remember many years ago as inline four cylinder engine displacement increased from year to year that there was a common belief that two liters was the maximum size possible due to vibration concerns. The industry incorporated balance shafts to exceed the two liter limit. Some engines even had two balance shafts rotating in opposite directions.

4WD associated components are all rotationally balanced. I suspect that Ford chose to implement the balance shaft for reduced vibration for customer satisfaction rather than increased serviceability. Ford produced millions of V6 engines (OHV and SOHC) with no balance shafts and no associated recall notices due to premature failure. I'm not aware of any technical service bulletins regarding premature crank failure related to the absence of a balance shaft. Some standard shift performance enthusiasts purchase lightened flywheels for reduced rotational mass and increased throttle response. The negative impact is a slightly less smooth idling engine. I think the balance shaft issue is an analagous trade off.

I would not be concerned about premature crankshaft failure when using an engine with no balance shaft."

And this right here is THE BIG time question. Like jprentice94 hinted at, i am fairly mechanically inclined. However, i only own an in/lb torque wrench at the moment, and although I understand the process of changing out head gaskets, I have never actually done it. Also, i dont own a torque angle adapter, since these head bolts are Torque to Yield. I would love to go ahead and change out the head gaskets and get it out of the way. But is it necessary? How long can a headgasket last for? I can tell you the entire vehicle history from 60k miles to 206k miles. Driven very lightly(probably never saw past 3k rpms for most of its life). Noticed the tensioner noise at about 193-195k miles. After that, never saw above 2200rpm until about 202k miles. Like i said above, i pulled the engine at 206k miles preventatively. So assuming a gentle life and a proper breakin, my compression should still be relatively high. Oil Changed every 4-5k miles, never run low on oil, Penzoil High Mileage from 60k to 200k(didnt have a single oil leak until i switched to Valvoline's Maxlife at 200k), never overheated.... So there is a little more of a background for you, if that helps at all.

Based on what you've posted I suggest installing the 00m12 kit and replacing the primary (crankshaft to jackshaft tensioner) tensioner (significantly improved). That can be done without removing the primary chain, or loosening the jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt so no retiming is necessary. You could also repace the primary chain guide if it is significantly worn. It is cheap and easy to replace with the chains in place.

Regarding the balance shaft:
The chain tensioner and guide need to be replaced if the balance shaft remains connected to the crankshaft via the chain. Replacing the base of the balance shaft chain tensioner requires removal of the block cradle. The process is fairly time consuming with detailed steps to follow and an alignment is required when reinstalling. No special tools are required and I can provide instructions which should be strictly followed. Otherwise, there will be oil leaks between the block and the block cradle. You might try the "bend the pivot post" method which I have not tried but several forum members have successfully implemented. Or you can just cut the chain (don't saw it leaving metal particles).

The lower oil pan should be removed and flushed of particles. The oil pump pickup screen should be cleaned around the inside diameter since particles will be collected there.

And on a side note, can someone please tell me what size this bolt is?

Don't loosen that bolt! That's the jackshaft front sprocket retaining bolt. If you loosen that bolt the camshaft timing to both banks will be lost and you'll have to retime both camshafts.

 

[jprentice94]

So you gonna do a headgasket

 

[Blown98]

The rear guide looks good to me. Pull up on the guide where it strattles the positioning post to make sure the buide is not broken at the base.

The front guide looks good to me but I can't see the "finger" at the bottom which sometimes breaks off.

Look for pieces of it in the pan.

Ok, the rear guide is good as far as i can tell, very little movement up/down or side to side. Also didnt see any cracks etc inspecting what i could see through the head.

The front guide is missing that "finger", you can see in the plastic where it is "suppose" to be, but has broken off.

This engine has been sitting for several months, wrapped up in plastic, i dropped the pan a LOOOOONG time ago. I don;t specifically remember seeing that piece, but i have all the pieces in a small tupperware somewhere.

The balance shaft, i could honestly care less whether it stays in or not, my primary concern is that drive chain breaking and potentially being thrown into the timing chain/timing gears or caught by the crank on its way into the oil pan(worst case scenario). So i guess i need to make a decision now as whether or not to keep it.

Concerning the 00m12 kit, the only parts of that that i bought where the intake plenum recall pieces(it was having horrible cold start issues last winter). Other than that, i still have everything else 100% stock. I will make sure to pick that kit up though.

Don't loosen that bolt!

Here is my main reason behind wanting to replace that bolt. I would like to replace both those gears and more importantly, the chain itself, since it already ate through 1 metal bracket. Going back to this picture, everything circled in green was gone. Everything that sits above the base of that piece was eaten away by that chain slapping into it. If i can find the container with all the parts in it, I'll post up a picture of it. I believe THAT was where all the metal in my oil was coming from. Because assuming i remember correctly, i never found any actual metal chunks besides the tensioner leaves. Thats my only motivation for wanting to remove that bolt. Yes, i will lose the timing. But hopefully, i can either buy(relatively cheaply if i can find it) or borrow the timing kit from someone on here and lock the cams into place so its one less thing to worry about going bad in the future. Because that chain breaking would spell instant death to this engine. And my budget.

And jprentice94, no, i do not plan on changing out the head gaskets. If they blow sometime later on down the road, so be it, I'll fix it then.


Also, some non-related questions, i need to get some, errrrr....pieces i "might" have damaged during the motor pull online. Crank position sensor(or whatever the sensor is that sits right above the harmonic balancer) broke off AFTER we pulled the engine out, the sheet of metal that separated the engine from the tranny has (i believe) been lost, my oil temperature sensor in the "upper" oil pan ripped out of the harness, and the main power wire to my starter(the wire with the large tab on it) broke off. Let me just put it this way, "If it wasnt for bad luck, our family wouldn't have any luck at all."

 

[2000StreetRod]

primary chain kit

Ignoring the primary chain tensioner failure is common because the engine keeps running and just makes noise.

But most owners don't let it go so long that the leaf support is eaten away. The chains are strong and tough but I understand your concern and desire to replace the primary chain. Ford sells some individual chain components. Their justification not selling the cassette components individually is that wear patterns develop between the sprockets and the chains so they should be replaced as a set. I purchased a primary chain kit from Ford which is still available: P/N 2U3Z6D256CA, $163 from Tasca parts online. It contains:

Crankshaft bolt harmonic balancer E7RY6A340B
Tensioner-engine jackshaft chain YL2Z6L266AA
Gasket-cylinder/timing front cover F77Z6020AB
Sprocket/gear-engine jackshaft/intermediate 2U3Z6M264AA
Guide-engine jackshaft chain 2L2Z6K297AA
Bolt-jackshaft sprocket bolt F77Z6M264BA superseded by 2L2Z6279AA (included when 2U3Z6M264AA is purchased)
Sprocket/gear-crankshaft two wheel drive 2L2Z6306BA
Chain-engine jackshaft F77Z6268AB $35
Bolt-camshaft sprocket right hand
Bolt-camshaft sprocket left hand F77Z6279BA

There's a kit for the 4WD with the balance shaft chain sprocket. I don't know the P/N for it.

You may be able to buy an aftermarket complete timing chain kit for less than the combined cost of the 00m12 kit ($63) and primary chain kit from Ford. I think Ford parts are superior (see SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources
Several members have posted good reports for the 4USA kit.

If you PM me your email address I'll send you a copy of the 2005 Mustang SOHC V6 assembly instructions that include showing how to time the camshafts with the OTC-6488 timing tool kit. It also shows how to assemble/align the block cradle.

 

[2000StreetRod]

E sockets

I forgot to answer your question about the jackshaft front sprocket retaining bolt. It's takes an E socket (I can't remember which size but can look it up). There are several bolts like that on the engine of various sizes. I purchased a socket set for $10 from Harbor Freight.