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What did you do this weekend? Participation required

koda2000

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I replaced the radiator in my '01 ST today. The old one was just 2 years old, but the tank gasket/seal let go and, of course, it was just out of warranty. I found a brand new radiator (still in the box) on CL. The guy bought it for his '98 ranger, but traded the Ranger in before installing it. He was going to return the rad, but the return shipping was $50 (due to the box size). He only wanted $50 for the brand new rad and even offered to meet me 1/2 way between where each of us live, which saved me a 30 min drive. I paid him the $50 without even trying to knock him down any further. Bad for him, good for me. I hope this radiator is the last one I have to put in this POS.

Now, while the splash shield/air diverter piece is off the truck. I'm going to borrow my friends port-a-power and straighten my recovery hook brackets, so I can reinstall the hooks.
 
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Lance P

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2001 explorer Sport Trac
Complete front suspension rebuild.

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Howdy, getting ready to do the same on m,y 2001 ST. What parts (brand) did you go with? Trying to figure that out. Opinions about Moog very widely.
Thanks
 
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swshawaii

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If I had to guess, Moog's premium "Problem Solver" K or CK line is the aftermarket replacement choice for at least 50% of the posters here. The remainder are a mixed bag of various brands or relabeled products. Seems the biggest complaint with Moog parts are dry rotting dust boots that are not available separately. If you look at Moog's redesigned K8695T lower ball joints, they have done away with conventional outer boots. Regarding Moog's less expensive RK service grade line, IMO no better than most of the imported products out there. If you haven't seen the somewhat dated IFS upgrade thread, here it is.

IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com
 
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koda2000

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I replaced a missing door latch bushing on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer with a turned-down peace of PEX. I also searched for an annoying squeak coming from the right side of her lift-gate. I checked and lubed everything on the hatch and rear window that moves, and even siliconed the weather strip. No joy still, squeaks the same. I don't know what else to do about it. If you push on the lift-gate in the area of the right tail light, I can hear something squeaking softly, but I can't figure out what it is. Drives me crazy!
 
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swshawaii

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Phil, I know you said the squeaking noise seems to come from the right side latch, but did you check the lower pivot cups for grease? I also found "another" interior squeak from the plastic door scuff plates when the body flexes. Used E-6000 flexible glue where they join and the creaking is gone. Funny how you fix one noise, and another "quieter" one surfaces. LOL

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=114949

BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

EDIT- Sorry, you were referring to a 2000 Mounty. Do they even have pivot hinge cups?
 
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koda2000

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Phil, I know you said the squeaking noise seems to come from the right side latch, but did you check the lower pivot cups for grease? I also found "another" interior squeak from the plastic door scuff plates when the body flexes. Used E-6000 flexible glue where they join and the creaking is gone. Funny how you fix one noise, and another "quieter" one surfaces. LOL

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=114949

BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

EDIT- Sorry, you were referring to a 2000 Mounty. Do they even have pivot hinge cups?

No Steve, they don't. I found several things that squeaked and lubed them and when that didn't help, I lubed everything that makes contact when the hatch is in the closed position, all to no avail. I even tightened the bolts that hold the rear glass hinges in place, as one was quite loose, and even rubbed WD40 on the gas strut rods. It makes me think there's a crack or broken weld on the body, but I don't see anything. If I open the hatch and leave it sitting there w/out latching it completely, no squeaks.

Edit:
I just loosened the latch pins and moved them toward the rear as far as they will go. Now when I push on the right corner of the lift-gate I'm not hearing anything. A ride around the block will tell if this actually did any good.
 
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koda2000

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I replaced the radiator in my '01 ST today. The old one was just 2 years old, but the tank gasket/seal let go and, of course, it was just out of warranty. I found a brand new radiator (still in the box) on CL. The guy bought it for his '98 ranger, but traded the Ranger in before installing it. He was going to return the rad, but the return shipping was $50 (due to the box size). He only wanted $50 for the brand new rad and even offered to meet me 1/2 way between where each of us live, which saved me a 30 min drive. I paid him the $50 without even trying to knock him down any further. Bad for him, good for me. I hope this radiator is the last one I have to put in this POS.

Now, while the splash shield/air diverter piece is off the truck. I'm going to borrow my friends port-a-power and straighten my recovery hook brackets, so I can reinstall the hooks.

Update: I was in contact with the company I'd bought my 1st radiator from. I spend a month going back and forth with them regarding my radiator warranty. About the time I found a NIB radiator on CL for $50 (and bought it), I wrote the company and manufacturer a note complaining about their lousy customer service. That made me feel better. Then last week I got a call from the selling company, apologizing and telling me that they would either send me a new radiator, or refund me my full purchase price and that I could throw my old radiator away. I told them I'd already bought a new radiator, installed it and that I'd prefer the refund. I received their check on Friday. Nice surprise.

So, I ended up with about $70 ahead. Just goes to show, a lot of times bitching helps, espically if you don't loose your cool.
 
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Kjhadfield

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02 sport trac 4wd
So I’ve been busy over the last couple weekends… to address the grinding from the front wheel

Replaced both uca- moog premium
Cam/chamber kit (I think that’s what it’s called)- rays had the max adjustments
Both inner/outer tie rods w/boots- moog
Both hub assembly’s- moog again lol

Got the alignment today and it’s riding nice and straight

A couple questions:
1. I noticed oil leaking/puddled up on the pass inner tie rod- bad seal?
2. Do you guys replace the axle nut every time you remove? I know it says to, torque to yield (and I did- but 25 a pop)
3. I didn’t replace the lca, Yet, because I can’t find a place to rent that torsion tension tool? Any ideas

I also noticed leaking but I’m not sure what exactly the parts called. On the pass side, had oil dripping from a black plug that’s in the block towards the back (rear tensioner?) also same side oil dripping from maybe an exhaust part. I’ll get pictures tomorrow. I also have smoking on the drivers side I assumed came from a valve cover leak that dripped on the exhaust causing smoke
 
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Tifoez & Lavinia

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Told the boss about the legal 5.0 v8 swap for our timing chain failed '02 4.0 ST, so he located a '98 donor.. Making plans to bring her home on Monday, will keep yall posted!!
Screenshot_2018-02-03-18-35-03.png


From what I've found on the 5.0 drivetrain, they can still run strong at 400k, so I plan to keep track of the fluids, using high mileage blends, baby the crap out of the build and keep an eye out for another v8 engine to start an overhaul on to have ready to swap if something would happen, or when it's ready and I have time to tackle that project..
I'll also update with a build link..
Stay safe yall!!
 
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ptf18

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So I’ve been busy over the last couple weekends… to address the grinding from the front wheel

Replaced both uca- moog premium
Cam/chamber kit (I think that’s what it’s called)- rays had the max adjustments
Both inner/outer tie rods w/boots- moog
Both hub assembly’s- moog again lol

Got the alignment today and it’s riding nice and straight

A couple questions:
1. I noticed oil leaking/puddled up on the pass inner tie rod- bad seal?
2. Do you guys replace the axle nut every time you remove? I know it says to, torque to yield (and I did- but 25 a pop)
3. I didn’t replace the lca, Yet, because I can’t find a place to rent that torsion tension tool? Any ideas

I also noticed leaking but I’m not sure what exactly the parts called. On the pass side, had oil dripping from a black plug that’s in the block towards the back (rear tensioner?) also same side oil dripping from maybe an exhaust part. I’ll get pictures tomorrow. I also have smoking on the drivers side I assumed came from a valve cover leak that dripped on the exhaust causing smoke

On my 02, the 4.0l V6 is leaking from the oil filter adapter housing. The leak get worse with the onset of cold weather and very short drives. Its been an "issue" Ive put off fixing....although I have the need parts (most) for over a year now. Fearful of breaking studs/bolts when I start removing the exhaust system to gain access to the adapter.
 
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koda2000

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Beautiful day today (and not raining for a change). I finally got around to spraying silicon into the back window channels on my '01 ST to see if that will prevent the window from "bouncing back" when it's going up. It sounded like it was laboring a bit when going up. So far so good.

I also buttoned up the the splash guard/wind deflector thing under the truck, now that I replaced the radiator last month. Noticed the occasional coolant drip that runs down the lower rad hose is leaking a a bit worse, so there's probably a new t-stat housing in my future.

I checked for pending TDC codes on my daughter's 2000 5.0L Mountaineer. She's been complaining that it seems to miss when climbing the hill near out house. Found P0300 - Multiple Random misfires. Time for a tune up. 75,000 miles on the Motorcraft Double Platinum's and what I believe are the original plug wires at 245,000 miles. This vehicle lives outside and it's been raining daily, wet and foggy in GA for the past 2 weeks +, so I'm sure the wires are arcing. The plugs are easy to change, routing the new wires is the PITA.
 
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sethsport

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2003 sporttrac xlt 4x4
Before bad decisions
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After bad decisions
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Seems like every time I post on this thread there’s some wild and crazy thing that happened. Last time I posted it was about how my ex took a screwdriver to my truck causing me to have to get a new paint job. Idk if you can see it in the first pic but it goes from my front fender to the rear drivers door... pretty sure it says f’er. But I guess I’ll start there.

Soooo, yeah, I never got that paint job because I wanted to do several things like paint my lower gray body fairings black(I think I’m just gonna prep those really good, hit it with adhesion promoter then spray them with harbor freights truck bed coating) I did my rims last year with that and they haven’t chipped, cracked, peeled or nothing. Stuff is tough so I wanted to do that before the paint job so I didn’t slip and mess up a brand new paint job. I also wanted to put either a hood scoop on or some Louvres that made it look like heat extractors, I decided no on the hood scoop and just put the louvres on. It looked cool. You can see them in the pics. I sanded around them down to bare metal and was going to bondo glass them in for a flush look before paint.
Well ...here’s some more crazy stuff for y’all.
I was out on the town a couple weeks ago and when I came back to my truck it was gone! It had been towed!!!
Long story short I jumped the tow place fence, jumped in the truck and blasted through their fence with a vengeance. I called them the next day and worked it out to where i paid for the repair. But I bent my hood, broke my turn signal housing and there’s a small crack in my front bumper cover.
It’s actually pretty impressive though, I thought there’d be way more damage considering the damage I did to the COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIAL GRADE FENCE!!! But anyway...I replaced the turn signal housing with a stock one, I just ordered a new hood from amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M98Z4EX/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it’s pretty dang sweet, I’m excited.
If anybody has any tech tips on swapping out a hood it’d be much appreciated.
I also have some 2” wheel spacers I’m going to put on soon. I talked to the dude at pep boys and he said they won’t do an alignment on vehicles with wheel spacers?!?! Why????
I changed my oil today and I’m going to do a tire rotation when i put the spacers on this weekend. I’ll post pics when I get them on. Should look good. Got a new steering wheel cover, new 6” billet alum antenna, some new l.e.d interior lights that can change colors and will also pulse with my music.
I also replaced the upholstery on my center console armrest. Idk if my stapler is just a wimp but dang, doing that was a pain! But it came out Clean...
I want to get new headlights/taillights, I really like the halos but from what I’ve researched they only make them for the Explorer NOT THE SPORT TRAC?!??!?
I want smoked/blacked out housings. Anybody know where to find those???

If anyone has any tips/tricks on painting fairings, changing hoods, info on why the hell they won’t do alignments on vehicles with wheel spacers, or where to find some smoked out lighting housings please message me!!!!!!!

Explore on!!! And don’t be dumb like me!!!
 
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koda2000

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I received my RockAuto ignition wire set today (they came super fast) but of course the spark plugs, which shipped from another warehouse (doubling my shipping cost) have not arrived yet. I guess it will be sometime next week, probably when it's raining. It's been dry here and very warm (around 80 degrees) the past couple of days and the misfires have lessened and I finally got a CEL for cylinder #6 misfire, rather than "multiple random misfires".

Today my daughter walked up the driveway and said she heard some horrible noise as she drove up the driveway and was afraid to drive any further. I thought great, another problem. I started the engine. No noise. Put it in gear, No noise. Then I tried driving a few feet and heard a loud metallic noise that was rotational. It made this noise in forward and reverse, but I couldn't tell if it was from the front or rear, right or left side... ? I drove it up the rest of my driveway to where my daughter was standing and asked her to listen to try to identify where the noise was coming from. She thought it sounded like the right front. I moved the truck to give her another listen and the noise stopped. After I checked everything I could think of, she drove it around the block and no noise, then she drove it to pick up her son at school. No noise.

I'm wondering it a small rock got caught between the brake rotor and the sheet metal splash shield? The noise definately had a sheet metal rotation/dragging sound to it. I checked the brake caliper, inside of the wheel, brake rotor, bearings, exhaust shields and driveshaft and found nothing. No witness marks, nothing.

I hate mysteries.

W/in the past 9 months, 6,000 miles:
New upper/lower ball joints
New brake rotors, wheel bearings and seals
New ceramic brake pads and hardware
New front tires and alignment
 
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429CJ-3X2

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I had a small stick or rock, can't remember which, get between the rotor and brake shield a couple of years ago. It sounded a lot like what you describe, and yes, it scared the snot out of me!
 
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koda2000

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I had a small stick or rock, can't remember which, get between the rotor and brake shield a couple of years ago. It sounded a lot like what you describe, and yes, it scared the snot out of me!

Yeah, It was amazingly loud, though I didn't think it sounded like something catastrophic. I hope to never heard it again. The first thing I did was look underneath to see if something was dragging, but nothing was.
 
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koda2000

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Today, after hauling a large load of spring cleaning junk to the dump, I told my daughter that maybe we should begin the process of replacing her spark plugs (which haven't arrived yet) and plug wires (which arrived yesterday) by starting on the wires on her 2000 Monty 5.0L.

We decided to start on the "easy" side (driver's side), but it was still a PITA getting the stupid plastic wire retainer clips open. We finally installed the new wires on the driver's side to my satisfaction (OE routing). We were going to quit there for the day (and should have) but I decided to check out the passenger side. It didn't look too bad except for the routing of the #4 (which is routed under the throttle body and intake plenum along the valve cover to the rear of the engine. It's also retained with 3 or 4 plastic clips, which are of a similar release design as the driver's side, but are positioned on top of the valve cover bolts (bolts with a post on top of them). There's no way to open these clips until the wire is removed and free. Took us about an hour to get that wire off and I'm not sure how/if I will be able to reinstall all the clips. The other 3 wires on the passenger side were pretty easy to replace. Such fun!

Now I know why the PO's mechanic took poetic license with the ignition wire routing on my 2001 EB 5.0, but it remains to be seen whether my OCD will require be to reroute my wires correctly.
 
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koda2000

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Pulled the spark plugs out of the 2000 5.0L Monty today. Driver's side plugs were worn to .80+ thousands! (high as my gap gauge goes) but the passenger side plugs were still in good condition @ around .55 - .56 thousands. Wasted spark effect??? Autolite double platinum's with around 80,000 miles on them. Hope the new plugs show up tomorrow so I can get this truck back on the road, because my daughter's driving my '01 EB in the meantime. I'd have gladly let her use my '01 Sport Trac, but I suspended the registration and insurance on it while it was down with a blown radiator, which took over a month to get it warrantied, and I don't feel like coming up with the insurance money for reactivating it right now.

Here's a photo depicting the same thing as what I found, albeit on a 6 cylinder.
czRw5.jpg
 
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koda2000

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I finished up changing the plugs a plug wires in my daughter's 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L last Tues, when the plugs arrived, and it still ran like crap. I'd had my daughter helping me and we'd changed one plug wire at a time so I was pretty sure they were in the right order. We checked them a second time (me at the coil packs and her under the fender wells). She said that they were all correct. So now I'm thinking bad coil, bad fuel injector, burnt valve or piston, maybe a rocker arm issue...? Then it started raining and it poured for 2 days, so I left it alone. Yesterday my daughter was busy and it was very windy, so we left it until today.

This morning I sent my daughter to the auto parts store to borrow a compression tester (mine only fits the plug size of my ST and I couldn't find the correct adapter). Meanwhile I checked for spark at each plug to rule out the coils and plug wires. I got spark on all 8 plugs.

My daughter returned from AutoZone with a fuel pressure tester (not what I asked her to get) so I send her to O'Reilly's for a compression tester. When she returns I ask her if when we checked the plug wires she was 100% positive that they were all on the correct cylinders and I get "well maybe not 100% positive"... arrgg! Okay, now let's be 100% positive that they are right. 1-4 okay, 5-6 okay, 7 and 8 reversed! I was never so happy to find we'd done something dumb. Switched the wires at the coil, crossed my fingers, turned the key and viola! Smooth as glass. Went for a test drive and no more missing! At almost 250,000 miles it still runs like a Swiss watch. Whew!

Tomorrow I've told my daughter she will be cleaning my EB inside and out. At least I got a full tank of gas out of her (only had 1/4 tank when she borrowed it). Then it will be going back into the garage now that my ST's back on the road. My dogs will be very happy to have their truck back (they're not allowed in my EB).
 
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429CJ-3X2

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My son got stopped a couple of weeks ago because the 3rd brake light on his '97 Mountaineer was out. Yesterday was the first good chance I had to look at it. I researched the forum and didn't like what I was reading - special neon light w/ballast (expensive), convert to LED, or salvage yard. I don't like any of those options. I crawled under it to find the trailer connector some have cleaned to fixed their 3rd light issues. Then I decided to check the light myself before I started anything. Light works just fine with the headlights on or off! I later watched him leave and could see all his brake lights light up in bright daylight as he stopped a block and a half away. I love "fixes" like that!

FYI - I've pulled several factory trailer wiring pigtails at the salvage yard and know the connector others took apart and cleaned. Those pigtails/harnesses plug into the wiring harness behind the left taillight, and are separate from all other wiring after that. This Mountaineer doesn't have the separate wiring that ends in a factory trailer connector, but it is wired for a trailer. I don't know the original setup because someone spliced in longer wires to whatever was there right behind the bumper where a trailer connector would be if it had a factory wiring setup. Anyway, I took the connector I think others referred to apart, and all 3 brake lights work with that connector apart even though it looks like that harness goes to the tail/brake lights to both sides. It sure looks like neither side should work with that apart.
 
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429CJ-3X2

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I posted this in my other thread, but not everyone is following it.

Pic 1 with the original wheels and Firestones

101_2824-jpg.jpg


2nd and 3rd pics with the '02 Ranger wheels and the new Coopers. Although the wheels are similar, there's more difference in the wheels than it appears in the photos.

101_2825-jpg.jpg
101_2826-jpg.jpg
 
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