What did you do this weekend? Participation required

[koda2000]

Picked the camper shell up over the weekend. Had to drive a few hours but was only $25. I drove my son's white truck to get it since the engine is bad in my red STView attachment 152329 .

Wow, that's a steal for $25.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I'd buy several at that price regardless of color. Getting one that matches the truck for $25, wow!

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I replaced the muffler on my '01 ST. I started this on Black Friday hoping to get it done last weekend while the weather was great, but just finished this afternoon. Fortunately it's still in the upper 50s today. First 2 problems were 1) the recommended muffler* is about $90 and I didn't want to spend $90 for a muffler I was going to replace myself, 2) None of the parts stores around had one in stock, not even the O'Reilly's, Napa, and Advance/Carquest warehouses that are within 6 miles of my house, so I would have had to order one which would have meant waiting. The local Fleet Farm store carries some AP direct fit mufflers as well as Cherry Bomb turbo mufflers. They didn't have the direct replacement* either, but I bought one I thought would fit. It fit perfectly - IF I installed it reverse of what is intended. Since AP didn't answer my e-mail asking if it could be reversed, I returned it and bought a Cherry Bomb turbo muffler which is 11" shorter than the original. I installed it using the new intermediate pipe* I bought but didn't use a few weeks ago when I patched the rusted flange joint at the cat. Using the shorter muffler required an extra pipe and joint, but it works and sounds ok. Slight rumble at idle, and you can hear it on hard acceleration, but it seems quiet cruising.

** The recommended muffler does not have the inlet and outlet positioned exactly like the OEM. That's true for both Walker and AP. You need an offset inlet & center outlet on the same plane, and that's not how they are on the replacements. The new intermediate pipe has 2 bends vs 1 very slight bend in the original. Maybe a new replacement muffler and the new intermediate pipe work together to get the whole thing aligned properly, but neither are a match for the original parts.

I also upgraded my headlight bulbs to the Sylvania part that's a step above the basic. I did this on the '02 recently when one bulb burned out and was very pleased with how worked on our trip home from Kansas City in the dark 2 weeks ago. They put out a much wider beam that's whiter and brighter. Oddly, both trucks had 1 Sylvania and 1 GE bulb before I changed them.

 

[shucker1]

CHRISTMAS LIGHTS ON THE HOUSE!!!!!!

Now I've got Louis Armstrong Airport by the house calling me asking if the next flight has permission to land!

 

[N2FORD]

I did Christmas lights on my son's ST, ran them around the roof rack back to the rear bed side hooks, across the bed and back to the rack. Looks pretty good, picture not the best. Also installed a new set of Rancho 5000's. Also did a little cleaning and painting under the truck.

 

[N2FORD]

This afternoon we went for a trail ride up on Windrock mountain. Went to the top to see the windmills, saw a little snow and a great view. Did a few trails but since we were by our self's I didn't want to get into anything very rough, plus it was cold.

 

[Tif0ez]

Greetings explorers.. I shall start with a humble apology, it has been a while since my last confession... "oh wait, wrong forum"
I am sorry I haven't been around, difficult family times, and the parts fund disappears around Christmas.. I'm never giving away my ST, so sometimes it's the yard ornament, can't wait to try her out on the trails!!

I present to yall my terrible Tuesday maintenance, the start of the official hub to hub rebuild of the soa Dana 44 on my '01 ST
5.38 gears.. full spools front & rear.. (will edit for spec updates)
Questions welcome

 

[koda2000]

Dude! Cement blocks as safety stands? Please get yourself some real safety stands. I hope you never use cement blocks while working on the heavy end of your truck.

 

[Tif0ez]

I do have actual jack stands when wrenching on her, Im currently only using the blocks to keep the axle level until I put a tube in the passenger tsl, I nicked the sidewall and she consistently goes flat every week.. rather than have a flat spot to encourage dry rot and splitting..
I chose to use the block because even though she looks as if she is on a flat spot, the slight hill makes the block safer because of the bottom surface area of the block, I should have used a wood spacer on the axle and block surface to prevent chipping the block and possibly failure of the block.. on an honest level I've used blocks more times than I can count, and they are usually $1.50 each at lowes..
Once I use the welder to create a pad on a modified jack stand for my "hill" I will be retiring the block, lol.. the lean of the stand scares the crap outta me, and honestly the block was laziness

 

[shucker1]

Yes agreed, blocks are $1.50 each but getting yourself "Smashed" is priceless.

We are only trying to look out for your safety.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I seen a confession post above- I believe I absolutely need to confess! Minus a couple months ago coming here real quick to replace an alternator, I haven’t done a damn thing. Its been yrs since coming to this wonderful forum but I’m kinda happy this thread is still active since started!

I need to Lift the front end today to see if I feel play in the wheel bearing- past week noticed random squealing on/off and yesterday more of a grinding randomly, so much so scared me to drive it. Don’t think it could be the brakes (it has been a couple yrs but I literally don’t think I put even 500-1k miles since) mind you I’m no mechanic to diagnose.

 

[Kjhadfield]

My initial rock the tire test. Doesn’t look good

 

[sethsport]

Hmmm yeah def need a new wheel bearing. Pull rim, caliper,rotors etc then I think the nut is a 32mm. You may need a pulley orrr flush up the nut on the axle and give it a good thwack!

Very important!!!Take the hub up to the parts store with you and match them up and don’t go to autozone. The part # they had for my 03 trac was wrong twice!!! I went to advance auto and they had a moog which was spot on!

 

[Kjhadfield]

Hmmm yeah def need a new wheel bearing. Pull rim, caliper,rotors etc then I think the nut is a 32mm. You may need a pulley orrr flush up the nut on the axle and give it a good thwack!

Very important!!!Take the hub up to the parts store with you and match them up and don’t go to autozone. The part # they had for my 03 trac was wrong twice!!! I went to advance auto and they had a moog which was spot on!

I pulled the tire off to inspect and was suggested to replace the upper/lower ball joints and possibly the tie rod ends. Good thing is I have new moog uca and outer tie rods already that I never installed yet. Just ordered the lower ball joints. Was told to check the wheel bearing once I pull the rotor/caliper and yank on the hub. I didn’t get that far because well it’s xmas eve. Check next uploaded video to see the upper ball joint. And I’m kinda hoping I’ll be alright with just the outer tie rod (going to do the outer just because I already have it)

If I need a wheel bearing I may try rock auto first before the local stores.

 

[Kjhadfield]

How likely will the wheel bearing be ok based on the 2 videos? Could the ball joints and tie rod explain the random grinding and wheel movement both top/bottom and left/right in the first video or is that to much hopeful thinking

 

[N2FORD]

The video shows just moving the bad boot. With a boot that bad the joint will need to be replaced. The grease is probably all gone and the joint is metal to metal with road grime getting in there. I would recommend replacing the upper and lower at the same time and get the alignment done very soon after that.

Merry Christmas to my fellow ST owners.

 

[koda2000]

That boot is what the BJ boots looked like on every one of my Explorers, Mountaineers and my ST. I don't know exactly when the OE boots rot away, but I bought all my trucks with around 160k-185k on them. The upper ball joints on my ST were the worst, being extremely worn, squeaky and sloppy.

FYI's: The OE upper ball joints cannot be replaced in the upper control arm. You must replace the entire arm. Moog Problem Solver replacement UCA's come with replaceable ball joints (I don't know about other brands). I've replaced 6 sets of upper and lower ball joints. Not a horrible job, but removing an replacing the UCA bolts on the driver's side is challenging. They only come out and go in one way (lots of fiddling required) and there are A/C and fuel lines that are in the way. An immediate wheel alignment is required after changing ball joints and you may need chamber alignment kits, though only one of my trucks required the chamber kits and that caused me lots of problems because the bolts kept coming loose, ruining my alignment.

Note: If the bushings in the 2-piece passenger side UCA are worn, you can either replace the bushings, or install a 1-piece UCA. If the bushings in your LCA's are worn, you can replace the bushings or purchase complete new LCA's with new ball joints installed.

 

[Kjhadfield]

That boot is what the BJ boots looked like on every one of my Explorers, Mountaineers and my ST. I don't know exactly when the OE boots rot away, but I bought all my trucks with around 160k-185k on them. The upper ball joints on my ST were the worst, being extremely worn, squeaky and sloppy.

FYI's: The OE upper ball joints cannot be replaced in the upper control arm. You must replace the entire arm. Moog Problem Solver replacement UCA's come with replaceable ball joints (I don't know about other brands). I've replaced 6 sets of upper and lower ball joints. Not a horrible job, but removing an replacing the UCA bolts on the driver's side is challenging. They only come out and go in one way (lots of fiddling required) and there are A/C and fuel lines that are in the way. An immediate wheel alignment is required after changing ball joints and you may need chamber alignment kits, though only one of my trucks required the chamber kits and that caused me lots of problems because the bolts kept coming loose, ruining my alignment.

Note: If the bushings in the 2-piece passenger side UCA are worn, you can either replace the bushings, or install a 1-piece UCA. If the bushings in your LCA's are worn, you can replace the bushings or purchase complete new LCA's with new ball joints installed.

Yes I have the moog uca already in hand and the 1 piece for the passenger side. Also have a lifetime alignment from firestone which is good. When I put the new rubber on had them align it and had to put on the chamber kit for the passenger because they said couldn’t get in the green. So I’ll go ahead and put that on the drivers side while I’m in there. Good to know about them backing out- blue loctight a good idea then I suppose? Or no because of the alignment after.

I was thinking about the whole lca but opted for just the moog lower bjs. Didn’t think to check the bushings. I hope a visual look will suffice. I should of just bit the bullet and got the whole unit like I did for everything else.

 

[sethsport]

Yea I’m definitely not a great mechanic. I just fix stuff if I have to and learn as I go. I did my wheel bearing on the fly because It was shot and I got stranded. then I replaced both uppers/lowers/and tie rods because the originals were bad. Did a torsion lift while I was in there and got new AT’s when I got the alignment after it was all said and done. I have a write up on here somewhere for the new arm installation. I’ll see if I can find it. But yeah, thats a toss up. Could just be those really bad joints. Or just replace it all and call it a day. Good to know about the camber kits, I got both upc,lca,camber kit,sway links and inner and outer tie rods all from rockauto. All moog.

 

[sethsport]

Found the write up I’ve got a 4x4 if yours isn’t 4x4 then don’t worry about the torsion bar part of the write up

Write up on replacing upper/lower control arms, outer tie rods and camber bolt kit