What did you do to your 5th Gen? | Page 83 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What did you do to your 5th Gen?

I was fooling around with iMovie so I put this together for my YouTube channel.
I hope you enjoy and please don't forget to "like" it (only if you do).


Your ride is truly SICK!!!! I love it brother! Keep posting updates. Do you have a video of your ride with the downpipe and borla exhaust? How loud is it? I already have the borla exhaust and I’m getting ready to get the downpipe, thermostat, plugs, 3 bar, and tune from livernois.
 



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Your ride is truly SICK!!!! I love it brother! Keep posting updates. Do you have a video of your ride with the downpipe and borla exhaust? How loud is it? I already have the borla exhaust and I’m getting ready to get the downpipe, thermostat, plugs, 3 bar, and tune from livernois.

Thanks, brother. Look up my YouTube page and there should be some uploads of my downpipes and borla there!
 






Just a quick update... Finished tinting the taillights, emblems, and fog lamps. Also, vinyled the center of the hood. All in all, a great day spent doing a little bit for the ride. Next up will be an led bar install...

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America!

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and roof racks before the road trip.

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The steps can vary because people either use an oven or a heat gun. I personally used a heat gun because my headlights wouldn't fit in my oven, and I worried about melting some parts. Heat gun was more manageable, but it added a lot of time to the process.

Baking:
1) Remove the headlight assembly.
2) Remove the bulbs, wires, and other loose items on the assembly.
3) Place the headlight on a sheet in the oven and bake it at 250 degrees for 15 minutes. Some have used wood or cardboard to prevent "contact-melting."
4) The permaseal that seals the headlight lens to the back of the headlight assembly will begin to soften and loosen.
5) Somewhere near the bottom of the headlight, or at farthest corner the edge of the headlight, use a flathead screwdriver to pick at the permaseal and pry open the headlight while the permaseal is soft.
6) The headlight lens is made of plastic, so there is some wiggle room. Keep prying and prying until the lens is removed.
7) Keep in mind that baking at the wrong temp or for too long could result in melting the assembly or the lens; warping or damaging the assembly; etc. Oven temps vary by oven so proceed with caution. The headlight cools down relatively soon, so constant re-baking at the same temp but lower time interval might be necessary.

Heat Gun:
Similar to the above, without the oven. Use a heat gun on a low to mid heat setting and aim it along the entire edge of the headlight. The permaseal will begin to soften..... pry and pry, etc.

Once the lens is off, you can unscrew the amber reflector and ponder what you want to do to the interior (ie. paint it black, remove the amber permanently, tint the amber black, paint the chrome trim to something else, add halos, retrofit HID projectors, and so on).

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Referencing the photo, the headlight lens is at the top left. In the middle, to the right, is the amber reflector housing and reflector itself. The amber reflector is screwed to the reflector housing. The reflector housing is screwed to the final piece at the bottom, left--the headlight assembly base. The base has the headlight projector mounted to it, as well as the chrome signal and side marker reflector.
Did you have to remove the projector to bake it?
 






Just finished up the LED backup light and rear Turn Signal project. The Back up lights were easy plug and play just find a LED version of the 7440 I used Sylvania 7440 LED.

Turn Signals not quite that easy but not overly complicated. I used the same Sylvania 7440 LED But you want the 7440A (Amber) Amber bulb with clear lens. Resistors are needed to keep the programmed flash and reduce the "Hyper Flash" Simple resistor one end splice to power (POS) and one end to Ground (NEG) If your good with Bridge connectors and T taps that's great I am not. I wound up cutting and splicing but they work. I am weak on crimping so first thing I do with electrical wiring work is Cut myself a piece of extension wire to help with the slack. I peeled off a bit more slack wire than I was originally thinking but oh well.
 












Saturday project Technically but Redline Tuning Hood Strut Kit. (Separate post)
 






Got my ELM327 OBD2 adapter and enabled DRL’s using Forescan.
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
Nice looking XLT you have. Haven't seen many in the Gold Leaf Metallic colour.

Peter
 






Switched out the LED Rear Turn Signal bulbs with the same vendor same style but the type with the resistors built into the bulb. Cut the resistor and trimmed the excess wire. Tucked away neatly in the void between the bumper and the frame metal of the rear tail lamp housing.
 






Switched out the LED Rear Turn Signal bulbs with the same vendor same style but the type with the resistors built into the bulb. Cut the resistor and trimmed the excess wire. Tucked away neatly in the void between the bumper and the frame metal of the rear tail lamp housing.
What brand did you go with
 






Yes a little lengthy post but info is worth it. Link to the Amazon vendors description and pricing is at bottom of the post.


MAJOR NOTE: If you use the “Does this fit my vehicle it will come back as NO. Don’t panic concentrate on the bulb type (3157A/7440A) not vehicle so much.
I would be willing to bet that each vendor would make a 3157A AND a 7440A version sompossibly both sets from same vendor.

If you decide on LED back up lights I am about 99% sure that the reverse bulb and rear turn signals are the same bulb only difference is the 7440 (WHITE) and clear housing.for back up and 7440A (Amber) for turn signal/4 way hazard flasher

Local merchants (Autozone, Advance, O’ Reilly’s etc...) usually carry the.7440A in stock.

You don’t need resistors for back up lights since that is a steady power source until engine shut off or transmission in park.

PAY close attention to detail you need the A model of each set. 3157A and 7440A. Turn signals are AMBER bulb in clear housing. Some vehicles are clear/white bulb In Amber housing.

Looking back I should have paid the extra once For the rears and got the SIrius set first and not have any splicing involved. Spilled milk and lesson learned...we can move on!

Install tips:

Fronts will probably work even if bulb in wrong at least they did with mine.


Front. If bulbs are FLICKERING then remove power and rotate 180 degrees in the same housing.

Pay attention to the ones coming out look for the metal strips so you can orientate the JDM bulbs same way.

If Front bulbs are “Hyperflashing” then swap bulbs from left-right, right- left. Not sure how but it worked for me.

Rear:

They are a bit easier. Pretty much Work as advertised with no hyper flashing or they won’t illuminate at all. If no illumination then rotate bulb 180 degrees in the same housing. With no assistant plan a few trips back and forth between firing to drivers seat to apply and remove electrical power. As always don’t put bulb back in housing until ops checked. Rear turn signal bulb socket has very little extra slack in the wiring harness so rotate carefully and note orientation.

Fronts are fairly straightforward, rotate the bulb socket 45 degrees Counter Clockwise and swap bulbs. The flickering will be faint so you might have to install in the housing to see it. It will be faint but noticeable.


FRONT:

JDM ASTAR 2400 Lumens Extremely Bright 3057 3156 3157 4057 4157 Anti Hyper Flash Built-in load resistor Amber Yellow Turn Signal LED Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GQDX5T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LlvTBbWKWC24M


Rear:

SiriusLED 7440 Anti Hyper Flash Built-in load resistor True 25W Yellow Orange Extremely Bright LED Bulb for Turn Signal only 7440A T20 W21W Pack of 2 (Upgrade Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774HQC8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1nvTBbXVE5TVT
 






K&N drop in air filter because paper ones suck, or stop sucking...not really sure which is more appropriate
 






Got Nav enabled, nav in motion, and replaced the compass with nav in the IPC on sync 2 MFT. Thank you Forescan and XDA developers!
 






Got Nav enabled, nav in motion, and replaced the compass with nav in the IPC on sync 2 MFT. Thank you Forescan and XDA developers!

Nav-in-motion? Links please.
 












Took mine to the dealer this week to get some TSB's and other work cleared up before I start modding. Borla exhaust is sitting in my garage awaiting installation, then it's a trip over to Livernois for a tune and CAI.
 






Borla cat-back exhaust installed today! Did it myself. I’ll have to write up a post on how it went.

JonNoriega, Borla owes you a commission. It was your videos that sold me on the Borla!
 






Borla cat-back exhaust installed today! Did it myself. I’ll have to write up a post on how it went.

Please do a write up, I hope you took pictures..... I'm interested in seeing the write up and just what your thoughts are.
 



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