What did YOU do to your Explorer today?

[1991 sploder]

I'm going to have it done this weekend I put in...i put in New "high velocity pushrods"omg it woke up... last time I did this and I'm trying to find roller rockers for cheap..doing paint this time ECT no power steering ac or idler.... Electric fan...maybe next week will be done

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

i just replaced mine with felpro gaskets with the metal in the center, they are dry gaskets you dont put anything on them and they help make sure you dont over tighten as well. You also have to make sure all surfaces are clean dry and valve covers are nice and flat to, they could be deformed from being tightend before ect. other than that they should be good to go.

 

[BoostedE21]

i just replaced mine with felpro gaskets with the metal in the center, they are dry gaskets you dont put anything on them and they help make sure you dont over tighten as well. You also have to make sure all surfaces are clean dry and valve covers are nice and flat to, they could be deformed from being tightend before ect. other than that they should be good to go.

Interesting - I put them on dry on a clean surface, but it's totally possible that I over tightened them. What's the lb*ft spec

They've been on there for 2 days...can I just loosen them a bit, or is it too late already (remove/replace)?

 

[Abramwithda1991fourdoor]

I finally did something to mine that should be a most when getting a new vehicle. I know that the wheel bearings have a lot of play in them so I tried to inspect them but I didn't have a socket meant for the hub.
I ended up checking the transmissions fluid level to see if it was being ran dry. I then drained it and filled. It. I was trying to top off all the running fluid but didn't get to the rear axle. I did top off the front diff and transfer case. I couldn't find a drain bolt for the transfer or the front diff but I siphoned fluid out of the transfer case. I started filling the front diff and then wandered about a drain bolt but I couldnt find one. I think the front diff was about a quart low. Also the other two things were a little low. I liked working on it because that makes me feel closer to maybe one day driving a reliable Explorer. I also cleaned a lot of grime off the transmission and oil pan. I changed the oil and filter to I tried tightening my oil pressure sender unit to the block because I think it leeks there but I am not sure. It is kinda worrisome due to the sensor can be wiggled a lot inside its bolt. I need to keep a close eye on it and think about how to replace it and buy a new sensor thing. I also would like to keep trying to clean some of the grease off and grease the zerts.

 

[1991 sploder]

Interesting - I put them on dry on a clean surface, but it's totally possible that I over tightened them. What's the lb*ft spec

They've been on there for 2 days...can I just loosen them a bit, or is it too late already (remove/replace)?

Hey did u silicone the front and rear of intake?
Also there's a torque sequence... It... depends on the year

 

[BoostedE21]

I did not - thought about it, but didn't. Okay, I'll see if I can loosen up the valve cover gasket tomorrow and add some in those spots, see what happens. I assume I should let it sit for a couple minutes before tightening it back down so it forms to shape a bit better?

 

[1991 sploder]

I did not - thought about it, but didn't. Okay, I'll see if I can loosen up the valve cover gasket tomorrow and add some in those spots, see what happens. I assume I should let it sit for a couple minutes before tightening it back down so it forms to shape a bit better?

Letting it sit depends on the brand actually I know haha alot are like instant. Some it's put it on then hand tighten till it comes out the sides tighten after 20 minute maybe up to an HR...depends on brand..consistancy ECT...ive seen red black gray silicone on intakes ......that's on the lower intake manifold.... As far as the valve covers go u should be able to just tighten them to like 45 in lbs wait a couple minutes then tighten again to like 60 in lbs. Can u see where its seeping from?

 

[1991 sploder]

Also that picture sucks really gotta silicone like crazy all around ur right it's a bad design. Probably need 2 bottles and gaskets.

 

[1991 sploder]

Check out the spec on rocker arm shaft bolts...lol run engine take valve covers off and re tighten...lol

 

[1991 sploder]

If u don't tighten to spec it will be crooked and leak here's all specs

 

[1991 sploder]

Haha found it....

Notice how u gotta apply silicone around water jackets and everything and it even says after gasket is installed and on here it says if u have to let it set for 15 minutes it won't work...get instant gasket sealer and clean block with brake cleaner...follow tighten sequence provided...

 

[BoostedE21]

Letting it sit depends on the brand actually I know haha alot are like instant. Some it's put it on then hand tighten till it comes out the sides tighten after 20 minute maybe up to an HR...depends on brand..consistancy ECT...ive seen red black gray silicone on intakes ......that's on the lower intake manifold.... As far as the valve covers go u should be able to just tighten them to like 45 in lbs wait a couple minutes then tighten again to like 60 in lbs. Can u see where its seeping from?

I felt around back where the head and intake come together under the valve cover gasket - actually, bone dry. So, it's not leaking from there. it was leaking from there before we replaced the heads, but it seems it's sealed up well now.

The oil I'm seeing accumulates on the bottom of the engine right where it meets up with the transmission. The heads themselves are dry, so......maybe rear main seal?

 

[1991 sploder]

I felt around back where the head and intake come together under the valve cover gasket - actually, bone dry. So, it's not leaking from there. it was leaking from there before we replaced the heads, but it seems it's sealed up well now.

The oil I'm seeing accumulates on the bottom of the engine right where it meets up with the transmission. The heads themselves are dry, so......maybe rear main seal?

Yea don't change ur oil so often orrrr use syn blend idk what ur using now but a good synthetic just polishes the heck out of the crankshaft I've had that problem...ok yea it will stop but either replace rear main or uggg throw something in there to stop that.... How is ur pcv valve?

 

[1991 sploder]

Either it's blown and leaking like crazy or polished out and dripping.

 

[1991 sploder]

7500 mile oil changes with full syn 3k otherwise

 

[BoostedE21]

Either it's blown and leaking like crazy or polished out and dripping.

I did put Mobil full synthetic in it out of habit - I'll add some Lucas Stop Leak to see what happens, and then use thicker stuff next time. I recall a couple people mentioning that they use Diesel oil in theirs for the same reason, it's a popular solution in the old mercedes world too.

 

[1991 sploder]

I did put Mobil full synthetic in it out of habit - I'll add some Lucas Stop Leak to see what happens, and then use thicker stuff next time. I recall a couple people mentioning that they use Diesel oil in theirs for the same reason, it's a popular solution in the old mercedes world too.

Yea but u have to remove the mobile 1 add conventional... Lucas is ok but I really suggest taking the synthetic out or it might get worse. Need some buildup around the crank use syn blend @3k changes.

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

If you used gaskets and there too tight there already crushed, those valve covers gaskets make you feel like your messing up, they do not go on tight. You run them down till you feel them snug up or start to get tight give maybe a 1/8 to 1/4 turn more, use a 1/4in drive, you feel like there too loose and there good only if you dont have a inch pound torque wrench or one that goes low enough to convert over. Ive never used rtv on valve cover gaskets so listen to 91 on that.

 

[BoostedE21]

Yea but u have to remove the mobile 1 add conventional... Lucas is ok but I really suggest taking the synthetic out or it might get worse. Need some buildup around the crank use syn blend @3k changes.

Fair enough - I ran 20W50 conventional high mileage in my last explorer....should I do the same here? Any suggestions?

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

I run motor craft 5w-30 in the 3-4&5.0s I have. The all have 200k plus on them and haven't exploded yet!