What did YOU do to your Explorer today? | Page 35 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What did YOU do to your Explorer today?

I installed this guy on the JP Explorer. Swiss cheesed the bottom of the air box with a K&N. Definitely felt a difference. Still a pig though. lol

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To properly check a battery, you need a load tester. Typically it will load the battery at half it's amp-hour rating and you observe the voltage while its loaded. It would not be worth you buying one for a one time use such as this. The best thing you have right now to load the battery is the starting system.

Chances are you battery is ok. Does it discharge while not connected to the vehicle? More than likely there is a faulty vehicle system that is dragging it down. You will need to isolate that system. Does your meter have an amps setting?
Update: Had O'Reilly's load test the battery - ended up with a new one. It also tested as "charging" and also "bad battery " for them - they said it wouldn't HOLD a charge. No problems in the 3 days since. Got the replacement for the replacement new master window switch today and installed it - fits better than the previous which lasted 23 days. Started checking the wires in that door boot, and found the pink/yellow wire broken. All windows work except the driver's one. Will dig into the wires more tomorrow.
 






Update: Had O'Reilly's load test the battery - ended up with a new one. It also tested as "charging" and also "bad battery " for them - they said it wouldn't HOLD a charge. No problems in the 3 days since. Got the replacement for the replacement new master window switch today and installed it - fits better than the previous which lasted 23 days. Started checking the wires in that door boot, and found the pink/yellow wire broken. All windows work except the driver's one. Will dig into the wires more tomorrow.
Remember tug on each wire
 






Remember tug on each wire
Not sure what you mean. Unless it's like this - Want to find the endpoint of each wire and wiggle the wire while using the voltage meter. I can find some of these on the switch contacts.
 






Not sure what you mean. Unless it's like this - Want to find the endpoint of each wire and wiggle the wire while using the voltage meter. I can find some of these on the switch contacts.
Tug on them to see if they are broken inside
 






Be very gentle tugging on them a little. Each wire has end terminals which "plug into" a hole in the connectors. Those plastic connectors all have tiny plastic tangs which stick out into those holes, to engage(hold) each terminal. Those tiny plastic tangs can break or get damaged(from wires pulled hard to force them out), and then the terminals can easily come out on their own.

You want to confirm that each wire is connected properly to both end connectors, so continuity is good.
 






Be very gentle tugging on them a little. Each wire has end terminals which "plug into" a hole in the connectors. Those plastic connectors all have tiny plastic tangs which stick out into those holes, to engage(hold) each terminal. Those tiny plastic tangs can break or get damaged(from wires pulled hard to force them out), and then the terminals can easily come out on their own.

You want to confirm that each wire is connected properly to both end connectors, so continuity is good.
Thx
 






Feeling Cranky (me) because this is the third time I've had to repair the drivers-side power window since I fixed it earlier this year.....

Looks like 3M Windo Weld does not work THAT well on keeping glass attached to the track unfortunately. Though that's not the problem.

The problem is those #!@# nylon pieces that snap onto a pair of metal balls that the regulator pivots on. Took me 1hr to snap them back on, only to have them snap back off....then snap them back on. Guess I'm back to having no driver's side window again.

Now I'm wondering if I should just say "F*** it" and find another 1st gen Sport to rip the whole assembly out of - ie. glass, Window, adhesive, regulator, the whole shebang, and just install that. That way I'm not battling with a never-ending parade of adhesives, glopping up my glass even more with more crap. Either that or re-engineer with some kind of custom-home-designed regulator slider assembly of my own design that won't come loose at the first sign of mild stress.
 






I used copper rtv to hold mine in place
Works great
Just good-n-clean everything
 






I actually used gorilla brand high-psi rated 2 part epoxy on mine. 2 years now! (knock on wood)
 








Another year, another trip to emissions :(

This year really pissed me off like no other. I haven't driven the truck since the last emissions test. I left it in the garage with a full tank with stabilizer. Last week I started driving the truck to burn off the old fuel. That's about 300 miles of aimless driving up to Wickenburg and back, along with a 20 mile lap of my town.

I got it down to 1/4 tank and was heading to Wickenburg yesterday morning when the engine started to stutter. It was like it lost power momentarily then came right back, a few times in a row. That caused the check engine light to come on, so I turned around and headed back home. On the way back I was unable to turn more than 3000 rpms or so, and it wouldn't take much throttle without falling on it's face. I got it up to the speed limit, but it took forever.

I put a new fuel filter in it, filled the tank with some fresh gas, added a bottle of STP Fuel Injector Cleaner, and all seems well. In fact, it just passed emissions with lower numbers this year, than it did last year.

It was pretty close to failing last year and I was afraid it might be time for a new catalytic converter. Thankfully that was not the case.
 






glad you got it sorted out! When mine started doing that, it was because the ecu took a dump! no cel, no nothing. Just fell on it's face every time I hit the gas. Got to the point where it just refused to even start! I replaced the fuel pump, filter, coil pack, and fpr before i realized that it was the ecu. but hey, it was time to replace those things anyway! :D
 






No emissions testing here in KY since the early 2000s. When they did do it; back in the 90s, guys would take thier old cars to see how it would do. Properly tuned Model As were passing. Albeit just barely.

They really put your truck to the test, either that or the noise is the tires? Do they run it through the full RPM band? I've not ever had to take a vehicle, so I have no idea how the process works. Im sure Cali has its own unique rules over other emissions states as well?
 






No emissions testing here in KY since the early 2000s. When they did do it; back in the 90s, guys would take thier old cars to see how it would do. Properly tuned Model As were passing. Albeit just barely.

They really put your truck to the test, either that or the noise is the tires? Do they run it through the full RPM band? I've not ever had to take a vehicle, so I have no idea how the process works. Im sure Cali has its own unique rules over other emissions states as well?
Similar to the process in SE Wisconsin. Passed but hated the wait and the hassle. AND the pollution they were trying to prevent, was simply floating in on the wind from the NEXT county! Glad I don't have to bother with it anymore up farther north.
 






California has the same type testing as Miracopa County for pre OBD2 vehicles. I take everything to the same shop, owned and operated by my neighbor's brother. The Explorer passes very clean every year, even with a aftermarket cat. It's grandfathered in or it wouldn't pass the visual inspection.

What really sucks here is engine swap rules. You can't swap a engine into a different class vehicle. I have always wanted to stuff a GM supercharged 3800 V6 in the Explorer. They have lots of aftermarket support, build a nice amount of HP/torque, it will fit without any suspension modifications, and it bolts right up to my 700R4 trans. It would be more efficient, yet not allowed because that engine was never in a vehicle classified by California as a "Utility" vehicle.
 






California has the same type testing as Miracopa County for pre OBD2 vehicles. I take everything to the same shop, owned and operated by my neighbor's brother. The Explorer passes very clean every year, even with a aftermarket cat. It's grandfathered in or it wouldn't pass the visual inspection.

What really sucks here is engine swap rules. You can't swap a engine into a different class vehicle. I have always wanted to stuff a GM supercharged 3800 V6 in the Explorer. They have lots of aftermarket support, build a nice amount of HP/torque, it will fit without any suspension modifications, and it bolts right up to my 700R4 trans. It would be more efficient, yet not allowed because that engine was never in a vehicle classified by California as a "Utility" vehicle.
I agree that does suck.

Can you use a later Ford V6 from an F150 or Transit Van, which also came in the late Explorers? I'd like to see the 2017+ 3.7 fitted to a 2nd gen truck, and it would go into a 1st gen too with similar minor issues. I may try it if and when I get other projects done, my 98 302 is still sick and I think it may need the engine R&R'd.
 






You can't swap a engine into a different class vehicle.
Can you point me to the specifics for this? I know there are restrictions about engine swaps, but I don't recall seeing this one about prohibited class swaps in what I have read.
Might change my plans for cbr engine swap into my nash metro.
 






I agree that does suck.

Can you use a later Ford V6 from an F150 or Transit Van, which also came in the late Explorers? I'd like to see the 2017+ 3.7 fitted to a 2nd gen truck, and it would go into a 1st gen too with similar minor issues. I may try it if and when I get other projects done, my 98 302 is still sick and I think it may need the engine R&R'd.
I have often thought one of those V6 EcoBoost Transit power trains would be perfect in an early Explorer. Those vans are pretty fast for what they are and I imagine it could motorvate an Ex rather easily.

For you guys that do engine swaps in emissions states. If the afore mentioned swap was done, how would it be tested? As a 20-X Transit power train or the 199x Explorer? I assume it would be tested to the standard of the model year of the registered vehicle's VIN?
 






I agree that does suck.

Can you use a later Ford V6 from an F150 or Transit Van, which also came in the late Explorers? I'd like to see the 2017+ 3.7 fitted to a 2nd gen truck, and it would go into a 1st gen too with similar minor issues. I may try it if and when I get other projects done, my 98 302 is still sick and I think it may need the engine R&R'd.
Not with that transmission. Needs a 60* bell housing, which is what my 700R4 has, so it needs to be a GM based engine. The only adaptors for that transmission are for the OEM 4.0.

Can you point me to the specifics for this? I know there are restrictions about engine swaps, but I don't recall seeing this one about prohibited class swaps in what I have read.
Might change my plans for cbr engine swap into my nash metro.
Any vehicle manufactured prior to 1975 is exempt from these laws, so you should be able to stuff any engine you want in a Metro.

Explorer is classified as "UTILITY" in California

From California BAR website:

IV. All model year vehicles (gasoline, diesel, hybrid, CNG, LNG, LPG, etc.) must meet the following: a. Model Year - The installed engine must be of the same model year or newer than the model year of the recipient vehicle b.

Engine Classification - Vehicle and engine classifications of the donor and recipient vehicles must be the same based on Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Classification examples include passenger car, light-duty truck (LDT1, LDT2), light-heavy-duty truck (LHD1, LHD2), medium-duty vehicle (MDV), etc. For example, a heavy-duty truck engine may not be installed in a light-duty truck even if they have the same displacement. Non-emissions controlled engines, such as industrial and off-road-use-only engines, and non-certified “crate engines”, MAY NOT be installed in any emission- controlled vehicle c. Certification Type - The certification type (California or Federal certification) of the engine and recipient vehicle must be the same or, if not, the engine must adhere to the more stringent standard. For example, a California certified engine may be installed in a Federal vehicle but a Federal engine may not be installed in a California vehicle. Proof of the certification type from the manufacturer or CARB EO of the donor engine must be provided at the time of the engine change inspection at the Referee d.

 



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So no B-Series Cummins in an early Explorer in California, then? :dunno:
 






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