What is your ultimate OHV 4.0 build?

[woodco100]

Throwing this out there as I will be building a motor in the fall. Right now it is to hot to ride the MC in Florida so I need my truck, but the motor is dying fast. I have decided to keep it instead of buying something else for 2 reasons. First, 2nd gen, 1996, 5 speed, 4WD, XLTs are hard to find. Second, after 11 years of ownership it is part of the family. Worthy of a full rebuild. The speedo stopped working at 170,000 miles over 5 years ago. Tranny is fairly fresh. I am not adverse to a crate motor if such a thing exist aftermarket.

I want a strong 4.0 for the street. Light off road, beach and woods. Also towing of the MC to the mountains on an open trailer. Running 30s on 15x7 jeep wheels.

What are the best recommendations for pistons, compression, valves, FI set up, cam, headers, heads, overbore, chip and intake. Price is secondary, I want this motor to be strong and go 200k. Rebuilding the diffs with new ratios is also a possibility if it suits the build.

Thanks in advance. Let me know what is working best for you all.

 

[Dono]

Forged internals, 422 cam, big injectors, high flow fuel pump, heads reworked from tom morana racing, head studs, pan girdle from a sohc, sct tuner, and try your hand at a intercooled turbo setup.

How's that for mean? Hang on to your wallet, your going on one really expensive ride.

 

[FIND]

I would go the cheaper route and swap in a 302... I purposely avoid threads where I think I might see how much money Dono has put into his. My list of expenses hurts me enough as it is.

Or, better still, just put in a reman ohv 4.0 and enjoy the next couple of decades of reliable service. Put the extra money into gears if you need a little more power for climbing through things, but you should already have plenty of go for any of the things you've mentioned if you have 3.73s or 4.10s.

 

[Dono]

Find is right. The costs are absolutely crazy for the return. Even if you do spend around the 10,000 mark once your done, then what?

I learned a lot from doing my motor. I'd never do it again though.

 

[woodco100]

Thanks for the advice, but it is a bit pie in the sky. Maybe I was not fully clear. I am looking for specs. ie bore 40 over with this piston. run this head, cam and injectors. This header works with your motor/trans/4WD combo. I want to collect the parts and take it get rebuilt at a good local machine shop. Money I have, it is time I lack.
If I go the 5.0 route I double the work or lose the 5 speed.
Can any one give me some good, usable advice to achieve my goal. We all know what a new truck cost. I have no issue spending $5k on this one.

 

[jd4242]

Thanks for the advice, but it is a bit pie in the sky. Maybe I was not fully clear. I am looking for specs. ie bore 40 over with this piston. run this head, cam and injectors. This header works with your motor/trans/4WD combo. I want to collect the parts and take it get rebuilt at a good local machine shop. Money I have, it is time I lack.
If I go the 5.0 route I double the work or lose the 5 speed.
Can any one give me some good, usable advice to achieve my goal. We all know what a new truck cost. I have no issue spending $5k on this one.

What they are saying $5k won't do it.if you search there is detailed list of parts used to build many different types of motors.you need to be a little more detailed on what your wanting.you can't have a super reliable FI ohv motor for under 5k.if you don't go FI then there is no point on dropping huge amounts of money into the block.simple sealed power rebuild kit (your choice on bore) m328 oil pump, 410 cam, smith brothers pushrods and sealed power rockers.done

 

[woodco100]

I have been doing some research. Wow, a lot of great info out there.
I think I can get what I need from a good rebuild with the right parts mix.
I will start with the gearing and go from there.

Please keep all the great advice coming.

 

[Dono]

Since you have the standard transmission, you could go with the 422 cam and upgrade your valve springs since the heads will be off anyway. Also, SI valves.

I'd still listen to FIND's advice though. Even JD is telling you essentially the same thing. If you want to do this just to learn and see what final product you come out with, Id say do it. JD does it to be completely different.

 

[woodco100]

I see your point. I found a good used motor for $350 delivered to my mechanic. I will throw that in and start collecting parts to build the ohv. Than I can take my time, collect everything and have it built locally. All I need is a solid 200-220 ponies. In the mean time I can swap out 4.10s, put headers on the used motor. I have no desire to go thru the crazy parts find needed to swap in a 5.0 and keep the 5 speed. I have a MC and a hot rod to drive in the mean time.
Thanks, Woody

 

[FIND]

JD's rebuild isn't much more expensive than a standard rebuild, so it isn't a bad idea. It would give you a small amount more power or fuel economy, and it would make the stupidly reliable OHV even more reliable... in case you want to get half a million miles more out of it.

 

[woodco100]

new 95tm heads, .40 over hyper stock CR pistons, 422 cam with dual springs and proper pushrods, new lifters, headers, cold air, Part # M328 oil pump, stock rebuild bottom end. Still working on the intake upgrades. I will edit as things change. I may go with the 94 piston for higher compression.
Any suggestions will be considered!

Thanks Woody

 

[jd4242]

new 95tm heads, .40 over hyper stock CR pistons, 422 cam with dual springs and proper pushrods, new lifters, headers, cold air, Part # M328 oil pump, stock rebuild bottom end. Still working on the intake upgrades. I will edit as things change. I may go with the 94 piston for higher compression.
Any suggestions will be considered!

Thanks Woody

I would but your need 90+ gas.

 

[rocketcouch]

im in the same boat right now, trying to decide if i want to build a strong 4.0 or just swap my v8 in.

if you use advance adapters PN# 50-4501 it should let you bolt the transfer case to the v8 tranny.

myself i cant help but look at the $400+ for the adpater and throw it into motor parts and keep the v6 in it but having a 5spd v8 would be nice too. either way its a few grand easy no matter how you cut it.

anything ive read on the 4.0 is a basic 180hp-250hp with 280-300 trq with head work and the 422 cam and depending on what else you do to it

 

[Dono]

I'd love to see head work and a 422 cam get you the numbers you are talking. Not at the rear wheels, that's for sure. Anyone telling you that isn't telling the whole truth, or the dyno (If it was actually dynoed) is way, way off. The 4.0 ohv isn't going to give you that kind of power that easily.

 

[jd4242]

^^^ I agree..even with 2wd your be lucky to break 220 at the wheels....most built 4.0 2wd with forced induction and full built puts down around 250-280ish to the wheels..depending on boost levels. .(6-8lbs)

 

[rocketcouch]

so 180hp max with lots of torque is a more reliable number?

 

[jd4242]

so 180hp max with lots of torque is a more reliable number?

Are you 4x4 or 4x2? Are you auto or 5speed??

 

[rocketcouch]

5spd, 4x4. my biggest thing is that i dont want to be disappointed if i dump 2k+ into a v6 when i could throw the same amount into the v8 i got to update it a bit and get better results. if i swap the v8 in i want to keep it a stick car and use the 1354 i got and the motor will be carbed. if that advance adapters kit works then it may be a go.

i looked on the ranger station and one guy dynoed his truck at 191hp and 254trq at the wheels with the ohv. that alone made me think it over a bit more

 

[jd4242]

5spd, 4x4. my biggest thing is that i dont want to be disappointed if i dump 2k+ into a v6 when i could throw the same amount into the v8 i got to update it a bit and get better results. if i swap the v8 in i want to keep it a stick car and use the 1354 i got and the motor will be carbed. if that advance adapters kit works then it may be a go.

i looked on the ranger station and one guy dynoed his truck at 191hp and 254trq at the wheels with the ohv. that alone made me think it over a bit more

Numbers can be tricky to the ground...that 191 im sure was 2wd with stock tires...4x4 and big tires EATTTTY HP PERIOD...doesnt mean the motor isnt making power..

Give you an idea..my FULL built ohv with sc@10psi only put down 210hp but its 4x4, auto and has 36x14.50 tires...that same motor in a ranger 2wd 5 speed puts down close to 300hp..

My ranger basically stock with efan, intake,2wd, stock tires put down 170hp.

My buddys explorer slightly built& tuned 5.0 4x4 auto on 33s put down close to 190hp..

As you can tell its not about how much hp you put down especially in a 4x4 explorer, its about how you put that power down and tq..if you want high hp and a race car then buy one, dont try and turn a 4x4 into one or you will be disappointed no matter what you throw in there..

You could have 500 hp and my 180hp v6 with the right gears and setup could out pull and wheel you.the v8 is always going to be a better option if time and money isnt a issue but dont forget about gears...you want power go big on gears...

 

[rocketcouch]

it was a 5spd 2wd. my truck has 3.55s and ill have 31x10.50 15s on it by the end of the week. i do understand what youre getting at though. weight and drivetrain drag changes it all. ive read that the nice thing about the v6 is that it makes a ton of torque over a broad power band which makes it very versitile. i do plan on regearing the truck in the future and off roading it a bit. would be nice to only modify the truck where needed

forgot to add. i did see a vid of a built dodge diesel and a little land rover defender do a tug of war and the defender 2 out of 3 times out pulled the dodge. i know the torque output on the v6 is its key atribute