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What oil do you use and how many miles are on your explorer ?

wsar10

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Hello all;
I just had A 2006 4.0 Explorer follow me home:D
We are a JEEP family but needed to add a vehicle with 3rd row and after a year of research we settled on the above. Another tid bit about myself, motor oil and petrol engineering is an area of great research for me. I am trying to find the BEST oil to use in this motor, like I do with every engine I own.
I have done a ton of research already and have looked at UOA's. I have narrowed it down to Rotella T6 5-40, German Castrol 0-30, Mobil1 0-40.
Frankly the high iron number that plague Mobil oils concerns me, I have never used a M1 product for that reason and the fact that you can get as good or better add-pak for there price point (other than the euro 0-40). I use HDEO in mostly everything and would like to use it in this as-well, I think this engine would greatly benefit from it's cSt numbers in the form of increased oil pressure in an engine that seems to have low oil pressure by default. I would love to use the HDEO since I have tons on hand and use this in most of my engines. I could go on but I'm curious about what you guys are using, my main curiosity is how many 150-200k mi trucks are out there and what oil got you there and what have you fixed along the way ?

Please post;
What oil you use, how many miles has that oil gotten you, what repairs have you done within that mileage ?

Thank you gentleman.
 


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autobahn

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Hi,
nothing but Mobil 1, 5w30 and Motorcraft filter used here. No specific reason for the brand of oil, just started with it and kept on buying.
The Explorer is frequently driven hard and fast on the autobahn, but without exception carefully driven warm, and never had to tow a thing.
Mileage is right below 100k and the engine runs like it did coming from the factory. Never seen any oil consumption, nor leak etc. I change the oil and filter (only Motorcraft filter with the reflux valve) every 5-7k miles.
Enjoy the truck!
Cheers,
Andre
 




colintrax

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200K miles is not a problem as long as you change the oil on time. Run dino oil and it'll still go 200,000.
I think you're better off on bobistheoilguy.com but I'm curious why aren't you considering Amsoil? I love it :)
 




wsar10

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I am actually an AMSOIL dealer (technically but not literately) I just do it so my friends and I can get AMSOIL cheaper....I use only AMSOIL in all my drive train components but not there oil so much

For the OCI (oil change interval) I want to run there are better oils for my application, meaning the AMSOIL would be a waste of money for me to use since I'm not sure I wanna do extended OCI's. That being said I have a case of signature series 0-30 that I may use but I really prefer a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) the SS has a lower cSt than the T6 or the German Castrol, and I guess my reason for wanting to go a bit heavy is to increase the oil psi a bit, my reason for that is (from what I can tell) these 4.0's have a low oil psi and I think i higher oil psi will preserve TC tensioners in these engines and help get the oil to its furthest point quicker.
 




wsar10

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200K miles is not a problem as long as you change the oil on time. Run dino oil and it'll still go 200,000.
I think you're better off on bobistheoilguy.com but I'm curious why aren't you considering Amsoil? I love it :)


have you ever had a UOA done with the AMSOIL in that motor ?

I have never seen a UOA for that, BITOG changed there search function so now you can only look at UOA's that are newer than 1 year old:mad:
out of all the UOA's that I have seen the Pennzoil Platinum and the GC are by far the best results......PP has now changed there formula and I'm not so sure I want to try it. It i snow made from NG., and yeah I know its a hydrocarbon just lik crude but still......
 




colintrax

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have you ever had a UOA done with the AMSOIL in that motor ?

I have never seen a UOA for that, BITOG changed there search function so now you can only look at UOA's that are newer than 1 year old:mad:
out of all the UOA's that I have seen the Pennzoil Platinum and the GC are by far the best results......PP has now changed there formula and I'm not so sure I want to try it. It i snow made from NG., and yeah I know its a hydrocarbon just lik crude but still......

Woah I'm to tired for all these big words. Haha I had an analysis done at I think 12,000 miles. Results came back great. However I no longer run amsoil. The explorer is rarely driven so it's not worth the money. I ran whatever is cheapest in the ranger, get free oil changes in the spark, and run the cheapest full synthetic in the explorer
 




Explorer_PL

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I bought mine 06 v8 when it was a year old with 40k miles. I have been doing oil changes every 4-5k miles at some quick lube place where they use some type of bulk oil.

Currently I have 185k miles including some towing and snowplowing and the motor runs great, no internal work or anything. I just check oil periodically that it is clean and has a proper level. Still after 4-5k miles the oil is clean and "see thru".
Wsar10 -
I have an engineering background, but you put too much thinking and science to that :)
 




mvallyman

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I buy the name brand oil on sale, usually its Quaker State 5-30 Non Synthetic. Change it every 4000 mi. My 97 Ex bought new went 200k without any engine issues at all. still ran strong and used no oil when I sold it. I'm doing the same with My 2010.
 




Flag Gibby

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Like already mentioned by the OP, the key to keeping a 4.0 running solid is the timing chain guides. Honestly, either you will have a problem with them getting stress fractures and breaking or you won't. I don't really see how the type of oil used will make any difference on that issue if you are changing the oil at the proper intervals. In my mind the stress fractures and breaking of the guides comes from high RPM's, so if you don't "drive it like you stole it" all the time then it should last.
 




wsar10

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I ended up buying german castrol 0-40, I've searched and search and searched and GC, Pennzoil Platinum seem to shear the least and end with a lower iron count. The GC UOA's that I have found all have 8-5ppm iron with the highest being 15, the M1 ALWAYS produce iron ppm number north of 15 some being as high as mid 20's.......The GC shears a bit but still usually stays within it's grade, the M1 stays low in its grade or shears to the high side of one grade lower. I have a bit of "concern" with the overall viscosity index being a bit lower with the GC vs M1 but the higher wear number out weighs that concern. The oil that ford specs has almost the same VI as the GC but the cSt numbers are a bit different;

Motorcraft 5-30 blend
cSt [MENTION=234733]10[/MENTION]0c=10.8
cSt @40c= 65
VI= 163

Castrol Edge (European formula, German Castrol)
cSt [MENTION=234733]10[/MENTION]0c= 12.2
cSt @40c= 73
VI= 164
also has a bit more ZDDP (still the best anti-wear minerals)

and to be honest the lowest wear numbers I have seen overall for this motor came from Pennzoil yellow bottle5-30 and dinno Valvoline white bottle 10-30, But these motors really should have a synthetic oil in them.
 




MNgopher

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I see you made it over here. I go by the same handle over at bob too. Not to knock this board, but if you want to debate the merits of motor oil I wouldn't bother here. Pretty true on most automotive boards to be honest...

As others have posted, I tend to agree with several of the posts above in that I don't think the timing chain guide failures are directly related to the oil selection.

To that end, I owned a 1997 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC, back before all of this was sorted out. It ran on whatever name brand dino 5w30 was on sale when it needed an oil change, and it still ran great when I sold it with 180,000+ miles on it (since the transmission was about to fail...). I know of several others with the same story, and the mechanic I use for things i don't have time or know how to handle noted he sees plenty of these tooling along for over 200+ at this point...
 




wickedtravelah

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just turned 100,000

Mobil1 5w30 full syn until 80,000 miles.....then I switched to Mobil1 5w30 High Mileage. The higher zinc values are supposed to be better for engine protection; plus it is sold at Walmart for a great price!

-replaced Radiator and Thermostat housing at 75,000
-replaced both front hub assemblies at 88,000

The SUV runs great and is fine off-road & towing (3000 lb boat)
 




wsar10

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I see you made it over here. I go by the same handle over at bob too. Not to knock this board, but if you want to debate the merits of motor oil I wouldn't bother here. Pretty true on most automotive boards to be honest...

As others have posted, I tend to agree with several of the posts above in that I don't think the timing chain guide failures are directly related to the oil selection.

To that end, I owned a 1997 Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC, back before all of this was sorted out. It ran on whatever name brand dino 5w30 was on sale when it needed an oil change, and it still ran great when I sold it with 180,000+ miles on it (since the transmission was about to fail...). I know of several others with the same story, and the mechanic I use for things i don't have time or know how to handle noted he sees plenty of these tooling along for over 200+ at this point...

I agree about the level of knowledge on most automotive boards, I just want to see what most guys are using and maybe pass along some knowledge.

I get frustrated over at BITOG, it has turned into a "any oil will work crowd" and yes obviously any oil will work but what goes above and beyond, what oil can I find that fits a particular engine PERFECTLY.....those were the were the types of conversations that used to happen when i joined there.

I just cant buy that oil has not been some of the issue with some tensioners since AFAIK they are hydraulic and spring retained, if you have sludge you loose part of your tension (hydraulic) or if not a heavy enough oil you end up with low oil PSI again loosing partial tension resulting in timing chain slop and tensioner wear from the chain loosely banging against them. Does that not seem logical ?

That is not my only reason for attempting to seek the perfect oil......... I do this for every engine I own big or small !:eek:
 




MNgopher

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All I'm going to point out is that Ford went through multiple part changes from the original parts that started out in the 1997 model year explorers until they more or less got it right in 2002. This included multiple changes to the design and materials of the tensioners and guides, with different wear materials and spring strengths. That to me suggests more was at play than the oil being used, though it was clear that engines that were sludged up were more prone to these issues.

Since yours is a 2006, it got all the bits and pieces of upgrades installed at the factory.

You will note I've been a member over on the other site since near the beginning. (The use of 5w20 oils drew me there - and over the years I've run 5w20 oils to Rotella T 5w40, dino and synthetic flavors, even in my modular ford truck engines (though I went back to 5w20). Used to do UOA's regularly (alerted me to a problem I had on my '88 XJ many years ago).

I've taken time off from time to time, but more or less I was converted from where you are to the any reputable oil will do crowd over the years. It became clear to me that I could focus my efforts on finding the perfect elixir to keep the motor running forever when the reality was the rest of the vehicle was shot and not worth the effort (salt never sleeps...). Right now both my Explorer (4.6) and F150 (5.4) are running on Formula Shell, procured for 1.99 a quart on sale.

Best of luck in your quest, though given the best results you were able to see where on PYB and VWB, I'm not sure how far one needs to look...
 




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Im using NAPA full syn 5w-20 in my 2006 Ltd 4.6. Mileage 94,000 and gas mileage has increased by 2 in the city to 13mpg
 




wsar10

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All I'm going to point out is that Ford went through multiple part changes from the original parts that started out in the 1997 model year explorers until they more or less got it right in 2002. This included multiple changes to the design and materials of the tensioners and guides, with different wear materials and spring strengths. That to me suggests more was at play than the oil being used, though it was clear that engines that were sludged up were more prone to these issues.

Since yours is a 2006, it got all the bits and pieces of upgrades installed at the factory.

You will note I've been a member over on the other site since near the beginning. (The use of 5w20 oils drew me there - and over the years I've run 5w20 oils to Rotella T 5w40, dino and synthetic flavors, even in my modular ford truck engines (though I went back to 5w20). Used to do UOA's regularly (alerted me to a problem I had on my '88 XJ many years ago).

I've taken time off from time to time, but more or less I was converted from where you are to the any reputable oil will do crowd over the years. It became clear to me that I could focus my efforts on finding the perfect elixir to keep the motor running forever when the reality was the rest of the vehicle was shot and not worth the effort (salt never sleeps...). Right now both my Explorer (4.6) and F150 (5.4) are running on Formula Shell, procured for 1.99 a quart on sale.

Best of luck in your quest, though given the best results you were able to see where on PYB and VWB, I'm not sure how far one needs to look...

Maybe I misrepresented my point or you misunderstood, I wasn't by any means implying that oil was the only factor in timing chain tensioner issues.....Just that I think it COULD HAVE BEEN a factor in some.

I guess part of "finding the best elixir" is the hunt, or learning the info....I do electronics repair and engineering work and the biggest part of engineering is collecting data and making an educated decision or change based on that data, I guess I let it follow me in all aspects of life ! In fact I researched these Explorers for over a year...and thats why I purchased an 06.

The reason I did not go with the PYB or VWB is longer OCI's and I like the winter weight of 0.

Oh and BTW, what drew me to BITOG was all this talk years ago about using "diesel oil" in 4.0 JEEPS, over the past several years I went to HDEO and NEVER looked back !
thanks for you input here.
 




wsar10

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Im using NAPA full syn 5w-20 in my 2006 Ltd 4.6. Mileage 94,000 and gas mileage has increased by 2 in the city to 13mpg

this oil is essentially Valvoline.........FWIW
A decent oil in any respect.
 




TourGuide

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My 07 limited with the 4.0 has 139k on it.

I bought it with 96k on the clock and at that time I switched it over to Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 with a mobil 1 filter (price, performance, and general availability determined the choice). I have avoided Mobil 1 synthetic for the same reasons you have - the UOAs have not been favorable for that oil in this motor and that is a pattern that you have to look into in order to see. I've had no repairs to the motor in the time I have owned it. For whatever else it gets me the PP now carries the DEXOS certification - something the newer motors require from GM.
 




thebrakeman

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Original owner told me he used Mobil-1 full synthetic until he sold to me at around 70,000 miles.
I've had mine changed at a Quicklane center since then (owned by local Mercury dealer) where they have used the Motorcraft synthetic blend. I've let them pick the weight.
The only issue I've had with the engine is the ticking noise that goes away after 1-3 minutes. Most here think it's an exhaust leak that seals itself as things warm up. But no fluid leaks and it runs great.

PS - The original owner occasionally towed a 1-horse trailer (unknown miles/year).
We tow a 5000 lb camper, average of 500 miles per year, plus one 1900 miles trip 2 years ago.
Trans, and all diff fluids were changed around 60,000 miles. I had some metal found in rear diff this year, so had that fluid changed at 100,000 miles. Will likely have the front, center, and trans fluids change soon.
 


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wsar10

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106,000 miles.
Original owner told me he used Mobil-1 full synthetic until he sold to me at around 70,000 miles.
I've had mine changed at a Quicklane center since then (owned by local Mercury dealer) where they have used the Motorcraft synthetic blend. I've let them pick the weight.
The only issue I've had with the engine is the ticking noise that goes away after 1-3 minutes. Most here think it's an exhaust leak that seals itself as things warm up. But no fluid leaks and it runs great.

PS - The original owner occasionally towed a 1-horse trailer (unknown miles/year).
We tow a 5000 lb camper, average of 500 miles per year, plus one 1900 miles trip 2 years ago.
Trans, and all diff fluids were changed around 60,000 miles. I had some metal found in rear diff this year, so had that fluid changed at 100,000 miles. Will likely have the front, center, and trans fluids change soon.

that tick could very well be an exhaust leak, could also be something that could be solved by a different oil. If they are using 5w maybe try a 0w syn.
 




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