What's that mysterious ticking noise?

[MyTrac]

So I just changed my oil the other day. Used Mobil Super (5w30) and a Micro Gaurd Filter. Good oil pressure. Found that it burns a little oil but not nearly as much as it could. .Today as I was sitting at a light, i noticed a faint knock at low idle (700 rpms). I wont write what I started yelling out the window at 12:00 am -- very harsh language.d just The interesting thing was it was on the drivers side and was more towards the back of the engine compartment. First thing I thought of was the timing chain rattle or the tensioner got some water on it again. But I have never had a knock after an oil change before and I am quite concerned. This truck needs to last me for another 3 years or I am ####ed. I need to know if I should dip into my savings and take it to a mechanic or ride it out and hope to god I am not destroying my engine.

Any ideas on what this could be? And could I fix it myself?

 

[MyTrac]

no one?? :/

 

[Flag Gibby]

Sounds like your lifters are starting to make some noise due to age and wear. Could switch to a heavier oil and it may go away for a while.

 

[MyTrac]

What the heck are lifter and can I rebuild them? Or have them rebuild it?

 

[MidnightRebel07]

I use Valvoline MaxLife and haven't had any issues with any of my vehicles, It's made to help older worn out engines.

I agree a heavier oil might be needed.

 

[MyTrac]

Okay. Today I listened real close and was not nearly as noticeable. I reprogrammed my truck (for some reason I thought that would help) and it lessened quite a bit. However, I am still pretty nervous about this. I might put stabilizer in the oil to thicken it a little. I am curious how much longer before I might have to drop in a new motor. I have 1,000 saved for a big repair.

 

[obie]

Valvoline Max Life is superb oil, in either the mineral or synthetic form. As for what lifters are, on your SOHC (technically lash adjusters) engine they are located directly below the cam lobes and act directly on the valve tip. They transmit camshaft motion into valve opening and closing. When they wear out, they tend to make ticking noises. Usually, you will hear it speed up and slow down as RPMS are increased and decreased, and the noise will either go away or soften once the engine reaches operating temp, depending on how bad they are. And yes, they can be rebuilt. I'm not sure how the 4.0 SOHC is to redo, because I've never torn one apart.

Though, it could also be your timing or even fuel injectors, or any number of other things that cause ticking sounds. Hell, it could be a loose sticker slapping around. Without being able to pinpoint the sound, it's difficult. Using just your ear can be misleading because noise in an engine bay can bounce around a lot. A stethoscope or even an extension or screwdriver can be (carefully) touched to various points on the engine to try and locate the sound.

Also, is it a ticking or a knocking sound? Knock could be caused by an ECM screwing up your ignition advance somehow, or really crappy gas prematurely detonating. Or maybe your engine is telling you it wants to become a diesel

I should clarify the thing I said about knock. There's actually a difference between true knocking and pre-ignition, but it's not something you can always tell just by listening. And I forgot to add that it could be a sign of serious internal engine trouble, as in improper lubrication or worn parts. Or it could be dirty cylinder walls, wrong spark plugs, among other things. Helps to know exactly what noise you're experiencing though.

 

[MyTrac]

it could be crappy gas i guess... But I have always filled with BP and I have never had any problems. Any way to test and find out what is being worn inside the engine? Maybe I should do another seafoam treatment? Maybe I need to clean the k and n air filter bc its letting stuff into the engine. How do I use the screwdriver to look for the knock or tick? I have been looking at engines for this truck and I can get one for about 600 or 700 dollars. But I would have no idea how to install it

 

[obie]

Aside from occasional one-off bad batches and spilling millions of gallons into the sea, BP gas is pretty reliable for quality, so its probably not that. That's typically from the really cheap gas stations.

You use the screwdriver or extension by putting the tip against the engine and cupping your ear around the other end.

And not to sound rude, but you don't seem too mechanically inclined. You may be better off taking it to a shop.

 

[MyTrac]

I will. and f.y.i I am always willing to read and learn if I can avoid spending money on a mechanic that chargers $80.00 /h plus his fancy little doo dads that he uses. I don't mean to be snippy but I am not "too mechanically inclined" for lack of effort on my part. I want to learn and better myself in a pursuit I am really interested in. But thanks for your input anyways. It was rather helpful of you to explain the "lifter" portion of our discussion.

 

[05dakotatrac]

to increase your knowledge. the screwdriver trick or extension trick is to place the blade end against a given section of the motor then put your ear against the handle end. this acts as a shadetree mechanics stethiscope (you know the tool the doc listens to your heart with) reason obie said best not to is there are elcetrical connectors that you can short and seals you can puncture if not careful also the belt assembly if you slip and you or the wrench go into that it will not be a pretty site. so you know now how to use the "poor man's" stethiscope but when in doubt or in fear please seek the pros.

 

[Flag Gibby]

Personally, I have never used the screwdriver trick... I have used a piece of old garden hose. One end on the part that I want to listen to and the other on my ear. It acts just like a doctors stethiscope.

 

[MyTrac]

I added lucas stabilizer, changed to the valvoline max life, and ran it. knock is still there. maybe even more loud. When I drained the oil I found a single metal shaving in in my funnel. Thats bad. Idk what to do for it anymore.

 

[MyTrac]

lifters are done. thisll be a fun repair!

 

[MyTrac]

***actually they would be lash adjusters that are probably worn. Could possibly be the tensioners. or...idk I am out of ideas other than that.

 

[obie]

If you want to do the repair yourself, then more power to you. Learning to repair an engine is great and can be quite a bit of fun. You just have to be patient, thorough, exact and precise. The tolerances are so small and can sometimes be mind numbingly frustrating to get exact. You'll also need a good engine manual, some specialty tools (these can be bought or rented from parts stores) and plenty of assembly lubricants and oils and cleaners and other shop chemicals. The engine manual can give you a more complete list of what you'll need. A parts cleaning tank is great, too.

That being said, I stil recommend taking it to an engine shop for the diagnostic portion. See if you can find one that has a tech who's willing to talk to you about how to diagnose your noises and maybe even give you some tips on how to fix it yourself. I say this because going through the process of replacing everything only to find out you replaced the wrong components is incredibly frustrating and time consuming.

 

[MyTrac]

Yeah I am taking it to a shop in the next couple days. It still runs like it should, just something is up internally. I have to get a little money from my investment accounts which takes a couple days

 

[MyTrac]

So this is what I am postulating...FIRST the tensioner went. SECOND this failure allowed the timing chain to loosen and become un synched and possibly break a few teeth that the chain runs on. THIRDLY the failing of the timing chain and tensioner slows the lash adjusters not allowing for engine oil to reach the upper engine causing possibly more damage that we don't hear! PHEW...anyone have any thoughts on this hypothesis?