wheel bearings too tight? front torque specs

[oz16us]

can someone tell me what is the torque specs or the procedure to adjusting the front wheel bearings for my 2001 ford explorer sport trac? They are tapered bearings (no hub). I'm not sure, if they're too tight or not tight enough. Thanks

 

[koda2000]

Basically you're looking for zero lash. I don't bother torquing them. If I just re-greased the bearings (or if I'm installing new bearings) I put the nut on and tighten it down to maybe 30 ft pounds, spin the rotor by hand, then loosen the nut and let the weight of the wrench drop from around the 1:00 position. Better slightly loose than too tight. When the bearings warm up they expand a little, so it they're a little loose when cold they will be just right when the warm up. I've done it this way for 45 years and I've never had a problem.

Tip: If you're installing new bearings in a used rotor, always be sure to replace the old bearing races.

 

[oz16us]

i read that it's suppose to be torqued to 15inch/lb not 15ft/lb. Is this true?

 

[koda2000]

i read that it's suppose to be torqued to 15inch/lb not 15ft/lb. Is this true?

Definitely not foot pounds for a final torque. Even 15 inch pounds sounds high to me.

 

[oz16us]

okay i'm baffled. So I install new bearings on both sides yesterday. When I go to adjust them, I have the brake pads and caliper completely off. I tighten the nut while spinning the rotor, until it stop. I do it a few times and then I back off until the rotor can spin properly. After putting everything back, the tire still has play. I drive it and it still feels loose. The only thing I can think of is tightening the nut more. The thing is, the rotor won't spin completely freely. There will be some drag. The rotor won't spin a full 360 degree. I'm confused. I thought the nut wasn't suppose to be tighten too much

 

[koda2000]

Don't worry about whether the rotor spins freely or not. I told you to tighten the nut enough to squeeze the excess grease out from between the bearing and the race (around 25-30 foot pounds would be plenty) then back the nut off until the nut is loose enough to turn with your fingers, then just snug the nut up and reinstall the retainer and a new cotter pin. You don't want the spindle nut to be too tight or too loose. If you can't figure this out, I suggest you buy a repair manual for your vehicle at the auto parts store. It will have the procedure for installing new front 2WD wheel bearings and torque spec for the 2WD spindle nut. Good luck.

 

[oz16us]

i think this is exactly how i approached it. So I'm assuming in the end, the nut should still be able to come loose with just turning it with my fingers. Still felt like the steering wheel is unstable. Guess I try it again...not sure what else to do

 

[koda2000]

i think this is exactly how i approached it. So I'm assuming in the end, the nut should still be able to come loose with just turning it with my fingers. Still felt like the steering wheel is unstable. Guess I try it again...not sure what else to do

No. The nut should be snugged with a wrench in the end. Just not very tight. Let's call it 10 inch pounds. Please get yourself a repair manual and read it. I don't know how to explain my procedure any better.

 

[oz16us]

the problem is, I don't know what 10inch pound feels like. My torque wrench is only measured in ft/lb. Yes, the nut is snug. So I guess the confusion part is.... what does 10 inch/pound feel like? would it feel like i can't remove the bolt just with my fingers? thanks

 

[Josh P]

the problem is, I don't know what 10inch pound feels like. My torque wrench is only measured in ft/lb. Yes, the nut is snug. So I guess the confusion part is.... what does 10 inch/pound feel like? would it feel like i can't remove the bolt just with my fingers? thanks

Watch some videos on youtube to get the idea. Koda2000 is spot on with the process. It is an art, something you have to feel. When you snug the spindle nut the wrench handle basically moves from the 12 o'clock position to about the 1 o'clock position. Also after you do the initial torque of the spindle nut put the wheel on with 2 lug nuts to spin the rotor. Something I learned watching my dad.

 

[Blaze6768]

No. The nut should be snugged with a wrench in the end. Just not very tight. Let's call it 10 inch pounds. Please get yourself a repair manual and read it. I don't know how to explain my procedure any better.

I own the manual and it does not actually tell you the torque spec on the rwd front spindle nut so no matter how many people bleat “get the manual” you aren’t actually helping

 

[Dean peulen]

the problem is, I don't know what 10inch pound feels like. My torque wrench is only measured in ft/lb. Yes, the nut is snug. So I guess the confusion part is.... what does 10 inch/pound feel like? would it feel like i can't remove the bolt just with my fingers? thanks

 

[Dean peulen]

Sounds like not the wheel bearing at all check top and bottom ball joints . Put wheel back on and look at top ball as you move wheel by pushing top and then bottom of wheel in and out if ball joints worn out you will see the knuckle moving then push left and right on wheel and you will see the play in the worn ball joints. Top and bottom ball joints cheap . need ball joint kit to press out top ball joints or a big g clamp and some wide sockets to do the job. Bottom ball joints nut and split pin . This will take out the play in the wheel if you have already done the bearings. Videos on net to show how if you haven't done this . Lots of bad advice on this forum try to narrow down faults before you buy parts.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I own the manual and it does not actually tell you the torque spec on the rwd front spindle nut so no matter how many people bleat “get the manual” you aren’t actually helping

Which manual do you have?