Wheel wobble

[95Ford]

Well Sunday after replacing the brake pads on the 92 I swapped my 37 scampers onto it. Afterwards while still on the jack I wobbled the wheel and noticed it seemed really lose

I'm guessing it needs wheel bearing to correct this?

Also besides bearing what else should I replace? Looking to basically redo the front end and put and upgraded parts I can sense it's on 37s now and I'm sure it will start wearing fast.

I already know timken bearings. I need to purchase 4 correct?
I'll do moot ball joints but other then that I'm not to sure on what I need

Thanks in advance for any help

 

[rookieshooter]

Ball joints may be shot. Really need to take to a reliable shop. This is serious stuff.

 

[Maniak]

It depends on where its wobbling and which way.

If you grab top/bottom of tire and it rocks its normally the ball joints. IF it also rocks left right is possibly the bearings.. If its only left/right then look at tie-rods and other steering parts.

Of course it can be any one or multiple of those things..

You need a 2nd person to do the rocking so you can see where the play is...

As for parts. You need 4 sets of "set 37" for the front bearings. For ball joints I like the Spicer joints or McQuay Norris Extreme (haven't seen them in a while). I haven't had the best of luck with the Moog ones for the d-35 recently.

A good thread to read, in addition to the Spingle/Ball joint sticky at the top of this forum is DeRochas dana 35 restoration thread. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155311

Anyway.. With 37" tires your going to wear out bearings and probably break apart u-joints. I'd look into the c-clip eliminator mod so you can pull that long axle shaft out easily.. Without the mod you have to pull the diff to get that shaft out.

~Mark

 

[95Ford]

Ball joints may be shot. Really need to take to a reliable shop. This is serious stuff.

Truck would get solid axle before it goes to a shop that's just to much money on labor

 

[95Ford]

It depends on where its wobbling and which way.

If you grab top/bottom of tire and it rocks its normally the ball joints. IF it also rocks left right is possibly the bearings.. If its only left/right then look at tie-rods and other steering parts.

Of course it can be any one or multiple of those things..

You need a 2nd person to do the rocking so you can see where the play is...

As for parts. You need 4 sets of "set 37" for the front bearings. For ball joints I like the Spicer joints or McQuay Norris Extreme (haven't seen them in a while). I haven't had the best of luck with the Moog ones for the d-35 recently.

A good thread to read, in addition to the Spingle/Ball joint sticky at the top of this forum is DeRochas dana 35 restoration thread. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155311

Anyway.. With 37" tires your going to wear out bearings and probably break apart u-joints. I'd look into the c-clip eliminator mod so you can pull that long axle shaft out easily.. Without the mod you have to pull the diff to get that shaft out.

~Mark

Thanks I plan on basically just going through the front end and fixing what needs to be fixed that way I know everything's good. I'll look into the c clip eliminator modmto

 

[rookieshooter]

Moog has gone to hot forging where as McQway Norris top of the line is cold forging which is way better. Napa's top of the line which have the blue top is also cold forged, which if I remember is made by McQay Norris's but under their name. Years ago Moog used to be cold forged. On my solid I used Napa's top line ends.

Here's a pic of the blue ones by Napa which are cold forging. This is on my modified flat top Dana 44 knuckle.

 

[Tony H]

Well Sunday after replacing the brake pads on the 92 I swapped my 37 scampers onto it. Afterwards while still on the jack I wobbled the wheel and noticed it seemed really lose

I'm guessing it needs wheel bearing to correct this?

Also besides bearing what else should I replace? Looking to basically redo the front end and put and upgraded parts I can sense it's on 37s now and I'm sure it will start wearing fast.

I already know timken bearings. I need to purchase 4 correct?
I'll do moot ball joints but other then that I'm not to sure on what I need

Thanks in advance for any help

Is it something simple like the small Keeper fell out of the Spindle nut and it loosened up a bit?

 

[95Ford]

Is this seem like a good list of parts as far as just going through the front end making sure everything is good.

Copyied for DeRocha's Thread but took out stuff i wasnt planning on doing right now

Ball joints (Moog) greasable Rockauto.com
Upper (2) K8546
Lower (2) K8563
U-Joints (Brute Force)
Wheel Joints (3) 1-0297BF (front axle U-joints 1 drivers, 2 pass)
Brakes
Rotors (2) Lappens (lifetime warranty)
Wheel Bearings (4) Timkin LM
Wheel Seals (2) 4950
Pads Front (Done)
Pins caliper (4)
Spindle 40-50ft/lbs
Bearing (2) (Timkin B2110) {within the spindle}
Seal inner (2) (Motorcraft BRS-88 F3TZ-1S175-AA) {End of spindle}
Seal outer (2) (Timkin 722109) {Attached to the stub Axle}

Soom stuff like ball joints i will end up going with the Napa Spicer 35's but open to upgraded stuff to that isnt listed.

 

[95Ford]

Is it something simple like the small Keeper fell out of the Spindle nut and it loosened up a bit?

I'm gonna take a look at it this weekend and see what happens but planning on putting new wheel bearings, seals, and rotors. Possibly replace ball joints, u joints, and spindle bearing depending on what happens

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Are you sure you have the correct bearing preload on it? This is only if you took off the rotor of course. Also, was the cotter pin in the castle nut when you took everything apart? if it wasn't there is a chance the nut walked it self off, and could cause the wobble you are talking about. Just throwing some ideas out there, there is no need to replace a bunch of parts, if you really don't need too.

 

[95Ford]

After removing the front wheels i noticed both nuts were finger loose. I tightened them up with the tools i had but did not have the correct socket. Planning on ordering it and retightin the nuts to toruqe specs and see what happens

 

[Tony H]

After removing the front wheels i noticed both nuts were finger loose. I tightened them up with the tools i had but did not have the correct socket. Planning on ordering it and retightin the nuts to toruqe specs and see what happens

Ok there is a bit of confusion... Is your X 4WD or 2WD?

It sounds liek the 2WD cars have castle nuts and cotter pins where the 4WD cars have a nut that you do not make tight ( it will bind up teh Bearing) but it will not back off if the Small 'Keeper' is in place.

 

[jd4242]

Moog has gone to hot forging where as McQway Norris top of the line is cold forging which is way better. Napa's top of the line which have the blue top is also cold forged, which if I remember is made by McQay Norris's but under their name. Years ago Moog used to be cold forged. On my solid I used Napa's top line ends.

Here's a pic of the blue ones by Napa which are cold forging. This is on my modified flat top Dana 44 knuckle.

The blue napa ones are raybestos which is the new spicer.moog has gone down hill.

 

[Maniak]

The blue napa ones are raybestes which is the new spicer.moog has gone down hill.

More specifically, Raybestos Pro. grade. And I agree, Moog isn't what is used to be.. Raybestors Pro and Spicer are the only ball joints that last any amount of time in our X.

~Mark

 

[jd4242]

More specifically, Raybestos Pro. grade. And I agree, Moog isn't what is used to be.. Raybestors Pro and Spicer are the only ball joints that last any amount of time in our X.

~Mark

Doesnt raybestos owns spicer now? I heard that moog is being made overseas now and that's why its gone down hill.the rabestos pro are beefy well made stuff

 

[IAmTodd]

More specifically, Raybestos Pro. grade. And I agree, Moog isn't what is used to be.. Raybestors Pro and Spicer are the only ball joints that last any amount of time in our X.

~Mark

I spent the few extra bucks and went with the Raybestos Pros on mine after a lot of reading. Not a job I want to do over and over again.

 

[Maniak]

Doesnt raybestos owns spicer now? I heard that moog is being made overseas now and that's why its gone down hill.the rabestos pro are beefy well made stuff

AFAIK, yes.. its the same company now but you can sometimes still find Spicer brand balljoints.

Not a job I want to do over and over again.

I'm getting better at it.. I change the lower ball joints on the mustang in 1 hour this weekend and the X isn't much longer now.. Air tools and that big arse c-clamp thing make short work of it.. Well, access to a lift saves time too

~Mark

 

[IAmTodd]

I'm getting better at it.. I change the lower ball joints on the mustang in 1 hour this weekend and the X isn't much longer now.. Air tools and that big arse c-clamp thing make short work of it.. Well, access to a lift saves time too

~Mark

I've had mine apart enough that I've become quite efficient as well. It's those dang spindles the first time they come off, or the fact they don't want to come off.