Where do I buy valve body guide pins?

[pumaacoma]

I am getting geared up for some work on my transmission (5R55E) . My 98 Ford Explorer Technical Service Publications CDROM suggest using locating pins when replacing the gasket (I have read on this site that they are $30 for pins). I have also heard these can be made from 5 & 6 mm bolts that you slot and bevel the flat shank. I would prefer to just buy the pins, but where do I get them?

Valve Body Guide Pin (.235)
307-333 (T95L-70010-B)

Valve Body Guide Pin (.248)
307-334 (T95L-70010-C)

Thanks,
Brent

 

[Glacier991]

FORD tools can be ordered by calling the Ford Tool Desk of SPX/OTC at 1-800-768-8632. Good luck.

 

[Opera House]

They are a little pricey. These are just 6 & 8 mm bolts with a beveled top and a slot. For $30 I'll use a hacksaw and a file.

 

[pumaacoma]

Thanks for the info guys! I have a 55R5E tranny with 80,000 miles on it. Been experiencing slight slip when I hit 30 mph once in a while (overdrive light has yet to flash) I have read numerous posts and tsb's dealing with the solenoids, solenoid bracket and loose valve body bolts. Before I get into the transmission I wanted to get some advice as to what parts I need because it is my daily transportation and I am planning on starting this on a Friday night I have until Sunday night.
Here is what I have so far,
Haynes manual
ATSG Transmission manual (Bulkpart.com)
98 Ford Explorer Technical Service Publications CD rom (ebay-$9.00 including shipping)
Upper and Lower Valve Body gaskets (Ford)
Low/Reverse servo seperator plate cover gasket
EPC solenoid (updated version from Ford)
TCC solenoid (updated version from Ford)
Solenoid Bracket (updated version from Ford)
Transmission filter with new o-rings (from Ford)
Transmission gasket (from Ford)
Valve body guide pins (to be built at home)
I still need ATF fluid, but what else am I missing?
Thanks in advance,
Brent

 

[Opera House]

Bulkpart SPX filter is the same one that Ford uses and only $10. Seems like overkill for all those parts. I'd drop the pan, tighten the bolts, stick a new filter in with a couple extra magnets. Then see what happens.

 

[yob_yeknom]

If your tranny whistles while in gear and idling, Ford has an updated seperator plate that solves the problem. (there's a TSB on it) It would be the perfect time to replace it if you're hearing that whistle, if not then don't worry about it.

Also, when I took mine out I did not use anything special to set the gaskets. I just set them on the parts and used the bolts to hold them still.

And make sure you keep track of what hole each bolt comes out of. They are not all the same length and only fit in the correct holes.

 

[pumaacoma]

yob_yeknom,
I haven't heard my transmission whistle, but thanks for the information!

Opera House,
I already have all of the parts, do you still think that I should only, "drop the pan, tighten the bolts, and stick a new filter in with a couple extra magnets. Then see what happens." Or should I put the new solenoids and solenoid bracket in while I am in there. I was thinking maybe to hold off on the valve body gaskets unless I notice a problem and I will make sure the bolts are not loose.
Where can I get extra magnets? How do they install?
Thanks again,
Brent

 

[Glacier991]

The round magnets you can buy to hold stuff on refrigerators etc (I bought a bunch at Radio Shack as I recall) are perfect for this job. Just throw a couple in the pan before reinstalling.

 

[pumaacoma]

Thanks Glacier991!
I went to RADIO SHACK yesterday and purchased some magnets. (I bought 3-High-Energy Ceramic Magnet, they are rectangle shaped approx. 2" x 3/4" x 3/8" thick for 99 cents each) I am assuming that the magnets are only attached with there own magnetic force. I am also guessing that I probably only need to drop 2 in the bottom of the pan. What do you recommend?

Thanks,
Brent

 

[pumaacoma]

Well the Explorer runs like a champ now! No more tranny slip! I dropped the pan, and the valve body was snug so the only thing I did was replace the EPC solenoid (updated version from Ford), the TCC solenoid (updated version from Ford) and the Solenoid Bracket (updated version from Ford) I also replaced the Transmission filter with new o-rings (from Ford) The parts were a little pricey (about $320) But that is better than replacing the transmission! This was pretty simple. I consider myself a novice mechanic, so if can do this, anyone can do this! (With the help from all the great people on this message board of course!)

Thanks again,
Brent

I also called SPX for pricing on the Valve Body Guide Pins and they were around $30....each! With shipping it came out to $80.00! What a rip off!

 

[Glacier991]

Congratulations. Great job, and thaks for giving the feedback. (and isn't the price FORD is getting for Solenoids a litte nuts!!)

 

[pumaacoma]

Couldn't have done it without all of the help! So, I owe all of you guys the thanks!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Brent, did you have to remove the valve body to get the solenoids and bracket off? Also, did you find any residue in the EPC solenoid bore (in front of the solenoid)? I have heard that debris tends to build up there, and mimics a bad EPC, when in fact it only needs cleaning......One more question, was the EPC screen dirty? Thanks.
Don

 

[pumaacoma]

No, you don't have to remove the valve body to get to the solenoids, which makes the job easy. I did not find any residue on my old solenoids, they were spotless! Are you having problems with your solenoids?
-Brent

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Thanks for the reply, Brent; I changed my filter and fluid last fall but didn't notice how to remove the solenoids. Knowing they're that easy to change is a big help.

Mine has had an occasional flaring 1-2 shift for a few months. (That is, up until a 1200 mile trip recently; now it shifts fine). Before the trip, I installed a larger heat shield between the catalytic converter and transmission. I can't believe this solved the problem, although I'm waiting for it to do it again, before dropping the pan.

I bought a Superior shift kit, and a new EPC solenoid and hold-down bracket, in anticipation of doing exactly what you just did. Your problem was a faulty EPC solenoid, correct? If so, I'll just install my new one at the next filter/fluid change.

Good job on fixing yours!
Don

 

[pumaacoma]

Yeah, it only took a few minutes to switch the solenoids and the bracket once the pan and filter were off. I never really pin pointed exactly which solenoid was causing the problem because I installed the TCC, EPC and bracket at the same time. (I wanted all of the updated versions and to get my transmission pan off, I have to drop the front driveshaft.) My suspicion was the EPC solenoid because there are tsb’s that ties the EPC to erratic shifting. Could also be the old bracket letting the solenoids pop out of there bore. You are right about not changing the solenoid and bracket until your next fluid change. (Unless the tranny starts slipping again!) Keep me informed on what happens and how it turns out!
-Brent

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Now that you mention it, my EPC solenoid was looser than the others. I could wiggle it slightly, and the others were tight. That makes me suspect the EPC. I know the brackets are prone to crack, but if mine was cracked, it wasn't apparent......anyway, I have a new one to install with the solenoid.

You mentioned the EPC solenoid being updated. Do the updated ones have different part numbers? I bought mine about a month ago, Motorcraft part no. XL2Z7G383AA, so I'm assuming I got the updated version. It's manufactured in Germany.

Thanks again for the info; it's good to know it's not an involved fix.
Don

 

[pumaacoma]

Yeah, the part # for the EPC is XL2Z7G383AA, The plate is XL2Z7L491AA and the TCC is XL2Z7G136AA (just in case!) I also have the 5R55E ATSG Transmission manual and I don't mind lending it to you.
-Brent

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Brent, I have the manual, but I appreciate the offer! Your bracket number also matches mine, so I'll assume my parts are indeed the updated ones. As long as the 5R55E is shifting OK for now, I'm leaving it alone until later. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it...). Besides, I much prefer working under a vehicle on warm summer Saturday mornings than when it's cold.

Thanks again for the info, and I'll post the results when I do the work on mine. Like Glacier says, it's helpful when a fix is posted, and it might assist someone else.
Later,
Don