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Where is my EGR Valve? 96 Explorer XLT 5.0

Kajigger

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March 29, 2016
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Ford explorer XLT
Hey guys I've been trying for weeks to fix my 96 Explorer. It's got God awful MPG, shakes at idle and under load it feels like there's a squad of NFL players trying to pull it back with a rope. I've replaced the plugs, cables, fuel pressure regulator, throttle body, IAC and nothing has fixed it.

Changing out the IAC and the throttle body certainly helped but not the the extent I need. I narrowed it down to just two codes after all that work.

I get a P0401 "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Malfunction" and a P0141 but that's from a bad cat I haven't replaced. I want to try changing out the EGR or at the very least cleaning it but I can't find the sucker. I've looked on the forum extensively but all the one's I find have broken pictures so I can't see them. I have a Haynes repair manual but it only shows the location of the 4.0L version.... so I have no idea where it is. I've tried poking my head in there but just can't find it. Could someone help me out? Picture would be preferable but a description is fine. Need to see if I can fix this so I don't have 9MPG on my 1 hour commute to work every day haha.
 



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Is your 96 one with the internal egr or external egr? Look on the pass side exhaust manifold. Is there a smaller diameter pipe coming off of it back to the intake? If so, you have external egr and just follow that pipe.

If there is no external egr, then the egr valve will be located on the back of the intake manifold, on the back side of the 90 degree elbow that the throttle body bolts to
 






Is your 96 one with the internal egr or external egr? Look on the pass side exhaust manifold. Is there a smaller diameter pipe coming off of it back to the intake? If so, you have external egr and just follow that pipe.

If there is no external egr, then the egr valve will be located on the back of the intake manifold, on the back side of the 90 degree elbow that the throttle body bolts to

Thanks for the quick help!! Found it! Looks like it'll be pretty snug to get out haha. I'll add some pictures and see if it fixes my problem! Just gotta let the truck cool for a few hours. Also looks like the tube might be sticking out a little so that might also be my problem.
 






Whew... Tried taking that sucker out and I'll tell you it's miserable haha. Looks like 2 8mm bolts but there is absolutely no way for me to take them out without a swivel so I'm gonna go buy one. And that's just for the top. Can't even get to the bottom one currently. any advice? I did tighten some tubes that were pretty loose so hoping that just ends up solving my problem in the meantime.
 






If they were loose, I'd advise driving it first after clearing the codes and seeing get if that resolved the problem. If so, problem resolved no more expense. If code comes back all your out is some time
 






If they were loose, I'd advise driving it first after clearing the codes and seeing get if that resolved the problem. If so, problem resolved no more expense. If code comes back all your out is some time
Thanks I will give that a shot. If anything I'll come back here haha I appreciate the help!
 






Hey sorry for the delay, I actually ended up driving it around for a while to see if the codes came back and they did unfortunately. I tried getting at the EGR again and I honestly cannot figure it out.
pmGh5yY.jpg

The top screw was 11/32 and came out pretty easily after I got a tiny wrench but it has 2 other screws on the bottom that honestly look impossible to get to. Not even sure if they're the same size. are these what I have to take out? Because it looks like it's just holding in that cable plug which I can disconnect. The bottom bolt looks like it holds onto the EGR Vacuum controller. Am I even looking at the right thing? lol.
 






I have the same engine. It is a pain to get that bottom bolt. I used a stubby wrench of a set from northern tool. Get a magnet tool handy for when it falls into the lifter valley.
After cleaning and lubing mine plus vacuum testing, my code still came back after a while. After replacing the vacuum relay my codes have not returned. That was a year ago I think.
 






I have the same engine. It is a pain to get that bottom bolt. I used a stubby wrench of a set from northern tool. Get a magnet tool handy for when it falls into the lifter valley.
After cleaning and lubing mine plus vacuum testing, my code still came back after a while. After replacing the vacuum relay my codes have not returned. That was a year ago I think.

Word thanks I appreciate it. I'm relaly looking for an easy temp solution fo rmy hour commute every day haha my MPG just plain awful. I'm giving it another go if I could just find the other bolt haha
 






Okay finally found the bolt! It's tucked literally under the bottom arrow in the picture above. it's a 1/2 that much I'm sure, but not enough space to get some leverage because the vacuum solenoid is in the way. Now I just have to get a really tiny wrench to get it off and then I think I should have access. Strangely enough I rubbed my hands under there and the EGR is covered in soot. Not sure if that's normal or not but certainly makes me feel like this will all be worth it haha.
 






Okay finally found the bolt! It's tucked literally under the bottom arrow in the picture above. it's a 1/2 that much I'm sure, but not enough space to get some leverage because the vacuum solenoid is in the way. Now I just have to get a really tiny wrench to get it off and then I think I should have access. Strangely enough I rubbed my hands under there and the EGR is covered in soot. Not sure if that's normal or not but certainly makes me feel like this will all be worth it haha.

Soot makes me think the EGR gasket is leaking, probably loose. Mine was not very tight.
I'd replace the gasket and see what that does for you. Testing the EGR diaphragm is not a bad idea; use a vacuum test tool and exercise it, clean it, and I used a little high temp grease on the shaft and exercised it to get grease worked around the shaft.
The nuts on the EGR are in fact different sizes. I did have to remove some of the interference to get at the thing, but I don't remember exactly what all it was. Check your vacuum lines too while your in there; one of mine was split at the connection

By the way, the stubby wrench set was from Amazon, not Northern Tool.
This is the standard set, at $18 not bad at all. Not much throw under there after you do get the wrench on it so just keep at it. Being a tool ***** I picked the metric set as well. Very handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-9930-S...25887&sr=8-1&keywords=sunex+stubby+wrench+set

Let us know how it turns out.
 






Hey guys I've been trying for weeks to fix my 96 Explorer. It's got God awful MPG, shakes at idle and under load it feels like there's a squad of NFL players trying to pull it back with a rope. I've replaced the plugs, cables, fuel pressure regulator, throttle body, IAC and nothing has fixed it.

Changing out the IAC and the throttle body certainly helped but not the the extent I need. I narrowed it down to just two codes after all that work.

I get a P0401 "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Malfunction" and a P0141 but that's from a bad cat I haven't replaced. I want to try changing out the EGR or at the very least cleaning it but I can't find the sucker. I've looked on the forum extensively but all the one's I find have broken pictures so I can't see them. I have a Haynes repair manual but it only shows the location of the 4.0L version.... so I have no idea where it is. I've tried poking my head in there but just can't find it. Could someone help me out? Picture would be preferable but a description is fine. Need to see if I can fix this so I don't have 9MPG on my 1 hour commute to work every day haha.
I have this same problem can u show picture of EGR Valve on a 96 Ford Explorer V8
 






Check here


96-97.5 internal egr is located on the backside of the intake elbow
 






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