Where is the CTS located on the 4.0 ohv | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Where is the CTS located on the 4.0 ohv

firerescue251

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January 28, 2005
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City, State
Logan Township, New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Sport 4.0 OHV
Where is the CTS located on the 4.0 ohv +Hesitation and loss of power

Just trying to find out where the CTS is located on this engine and how many wires are leading to it.
 



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Front of the engine, drivers side. 2 wires, light green with red stripe and grey with red stripe.
 






ok, couldn't find it, my mechanic said it only has one wire leading to it. please leave feedback
 






The coolant sensor is for the computer and has 2 wires.

The coolant sending unit is for the gauge and has 1 wire.
 






sparky2263 said:
The coolant sensor is for the computer and has 2 wires.

The coolant sending unit is for the gauge and has 1 wire.

not on the 2000 SOHC.

Both have two wires.

Just for what it is worth. I know we are talking about the OHV.
 






His sig says OHV. I have the diagrams for both though.
 






FOUND IT! But have another problem. Truck seems to have more power on somedays than others. I have noticed a jerking when lightly pressing on the gas pedal, as if the engine wants to shut down but then picks back up, and it hesitates. The power problem is in acceleration. I notice some days i can accelerate just the same with just giving it a little gas than other days it takes me pressing the pedal further to the floor to accelerate just as quick. It feels as if the engine is trying to accelerate the truck but it takes longer and is much noisier and shakier than a smooth acceleration.
 






Sounds like an ignition miss. Plugs, wires sorta thing. Fords misfire monitor absolutely sucks at times. I had a wire burn on the intake and could feel it missing and it didn't set the code until it burned all the way through.
 












Oh jeez, dump the Bosch platinums, put a set of real plugs in (like Motorcraft or NGK) and strongly consider changing the wires while you're at it.

I can't count how many Bosch platinums I've pulled out and solved driveability issues. Dead serious, I have that low an opinion and that much practical experience with them.
 






What kind of driveablility issues and what kind of problems did you find with the plugs when u took them out? How bout some autolite plugs and wires?
 






Not to step on Sparkeys toes,,,,
There has been many discussions about plugs here, by far the vast majority prefer Motorcraft platinum. There is a reason. I have heard a few reports of other plugs just flat out not working as well. Seems to be one of those areas where the Explorers tend to be a bit fickel.
 






2 weeks ago it was a 96 Maxima. Before that a 4.9 F-150. A 4.3 Chevy, a 5.7 Chevy and a Mazda 626 4 banger. That's in the last 60 days (I do a lot of driveability). All Bosch Platinums with symptoms ranging from random misfires to no-start. Removed the Bosch and solved the problem. This has been a pattern for several years now.

I wish I could offer an explanation, I really do. I hate nothing worse than offering advice "just because". It's so lame and undercuts rational explanation. But, as it relates to Bosch Platinums, it's all I've got.
 






Could a clogged fuel filter be a cause of hesitation issues also? And even if it isn't probaly going to replace just for preventative maintenance. How bout the TPS? maybe another culprit?
 






Yes, yes, yes and yes. But I'd do the plugs and wires first. ;)
 






Ok. I'll do the plugs and wires today, and i already have the fuel filter so i'll replace that while i'm at it. Another question. What is the easiest way to access the plugs? And are autolite plugs cool or should i stick with motorcraft and what type (platinum or the OEM replacement)
 






I wish I could offer an explanation, I really do. I hate nothing worse than offering advice "just because". It's so lame and undercuts rational explanation. But, as it relates to Bosch Platinums, it's all I've got.
Sparky, I have a theory......All resistor sparkplugs have a 5K ohm ceramic resistor inside, to reduce RFI. Different plug brands probably use different resistors, some better than others, and some might tend to fail under the extreme heat/cool engine cycles. This would explain why different plug brands are indeed better than others. (Maybe Bosch uses inferior resistors in their plugs.....?)

Firerescue, Autolites and Motorcrafts are basically the same plug, as long as you pick the double platinum type. You need double platinums because of the 'lost spark' ignition system, which changes the plug polarity on each bank of cylinders.

You can access the plugs with an extension and universal on the OHV engine, although it takes patience. (I also have a 2000 OHV) Use a section of fuel line hose pressed onto the end of the plug to install the new ones. Makes starting them much easier. I also use a dab of anti-seize on the threads.
Good luck,
ROE
 






OK, I have yes another question. Started her up today after sitting for about 5 hours in the cold. The truck started to shudder and the rpms were at like 400 - 500 and would jump to about 1000 and back down to 400 - 500. It felt like the engine was going to stall, but it didn't. Finally after about 2 minutes it kicked up to normal rpm range and stopped shuddering. Any ideas? Oh yeah, HAPPY NEW YEAR!
 






firerescue251 said:
The truck started to shudder and the rpms were at like 400 - 500 and would jump to about 1000 and back down to 400 - 500. It felt like the engine was going to stall, but it didn't.

Start out by cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor.
 



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Already been done, any other ideas?
 






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